Contact info for Architect David Johnson

Shouldn’t take much to install it. Not sure what the relevance is between the window and the brick building… I would do it. Call me at 347-276-6528 Levi SoHoAppliances

levicapland

in Architecture 13 years and 11 months ago

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SundialStudios | 11 years and 9 months ago

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I’d love to speak with you as well. We are about 70% through a renovation of a 12-10″ wide brick rowhouse in Clinton Hill that I would be happy to show you, if you are interested in doing a walk through. Please feel free to give a call, Kyle Page, AIA, LEED AP Sundial Studios Architecture & Design, PLLC (718)852-6708

dazednconfused2 | 11 years and 9 months ago

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“interesting things in creative ways on a moderate budget.” Sounds like fun! I like to think that’s just what we do. We’ve done a number of projects that fit that description around your area. I’d be very happy to speak with you about the project. Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP Urban Pioneering Architecture (646) 309-7259

luisenrique71 | 11 years and 9 months ago

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call mr Luis 347 600 0512

NGBklyn | 11 years and 9 months ago

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Hello – I just saw your post from March and wondered if you ended up finding someone to scrape and repaint the wood window frames? We are currently looking to have the same done on our building. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

brucef | 11 years and 9 months ago

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I suspect you are confused regarding what your “jamb”…is. The jamb on a pre-hung door is the thickness of the frame, from front to back. For instance if your wall was a 2 1/2″ metal std wall between two rooms, and the prehung jamb assumed 3 1/2″ ( a 2″X4″ standard wall), then the jamb would stick out 1” into one of the rooms, making applying the door frame molding difficult. If the pre-hung door was installed as a closet door, then probably it wouldn’t matter if the frame was OK into the room, and stuck out inside the closet where there would be no molding. Certain manufacturers sell “jamb extenders” to accomodate? thicker walls – like if your exterior wall in the suburbs was a 6″ thick wall. SO not knowing your situation, you need to determine if both locations either are the normal 2″X4″ (3 1/2″ plus 1/2″ drywall on both sides). Or if the openings are masonry, is there a carpentry solution? After re-reading your post, it sounds as if your contractor will need to add molding to extend from prehung to masonry. This could be capped in aluminum or better in a brownstone brick molding, available both in wood, but we prefer the MDF. Hope that helps. Bruce

slopegirl | 11 years and 9 months ago

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we met her once when she came through and waved her hand and said “$250,000 a floor” and oddly, we did not call again. She did come recommended up to that point.

jeanmarine2 | 11 years and 9 months ago

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I can’t speak as someone who hired her and used her but as someone else who considered using her and I got a sense that she knows her stuff and has a good eye. She seemed very no-nonsense about budget and cost and I half wish I’d hired her instead of the person I hired, for a few reasons.

cgmodern1 | 11 years and 9 months ago

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we had a nightmare experience with WindowsWeAre…horrible process from the estimate on. only good part was the measureing. our windows look like crap and a door they installed barely works…have had other people in to fix it twice and it’s only been installed 3 years ago. Avoid!

krc | 11 years and 9 months ago

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Hi there, We are a local professional window installer dedicate in residential, commercial and brownstone renovation projects. We have been in this industry for 25 years. Please check our profile on Brownstoner and if you are interested in getting a free quote please call us! Thanks and best, -Kennedy Renovation Company

kevinbrown | 11 years and 9 months ago

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I think before hiring a window installer, you must check it’s history like the year of experience, area of expertise, technicalities used and most importantly it’s authenticity that whether it is licensed or not. Do also check their reviews and clients who used their services.

Somerset | 11 years and 9 months ago

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Did you choose someone yet to strip and refinish your doors and entryway? I’m looking to do the same and wondering if you have advice. Thanks

slopegirl | 11 years and 9 months ago

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Look back t archives. There is a LOT on this over past few years.

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Hi. Could you post the pic? I’m interested. thanks.

oldbaby | 11 years and 9 months ago

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here is a pic…

mousta | 11 years and 9 months ago

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I’ve used vila windows twice now. Good prices and a year in the windows are holding up well. I also give them credit for dissuading me from using them for a particularly odd skylight install. I ultimately just used my contractor for that.

kevinbrown | 11 years and 9 months ago

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I think Chemical paint thinner/stripper is good to go as it won’t damage the lead came. If further attention is needed then use a fine steel wool with a little elbow grease, it will go a long way without giving scratch. Be careful with razor blades, they WILL scratch. Make sure not to push too hard on the window as you can bow it out or break individual panes.

jbrew | 11 years and 9 months ago

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Heights Historic in Brooklyn

leahhhall | 11 years and 9 months ago

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I agree with the [Champion Windows reviews](http://www.referrallist.com/listing/reviews/champion-window-siding-patio-room-4c6ec1787e456) about them being the best for windows installation. Their replacement windows made me happy and they know what they are doing trust me. My living room got a whole new look. No complaints.

samjohnsonus | 11 years and 10 months ago

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Call Champion Window – their products are good and they even give you a warranty on the installation. Refer: www.championwindow.com/windows/