Contact info for Architect David Johnson

Shouldn’t take much to install it. Not sure what the relevance is between the window and the brick building… I would do it. Call me at 347-276-6528 Levi SoHoAppliances

levicapland

in Architecture 13 years and 11 months ago

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stickerhappy | 8 years and 4 months ago

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Ok gotcha but all that said- do I technically need a permit or not?

chemosphere | 8 years and 4 months ago

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I agree with daveinbedstuy. Get a demo removal service with van instead of a dumpster. Do all the work between 10am and 4pm. Try to use hand tools rather than power tools whenever possible. There is a way to do demo with a minimum of noise. Talk to your neighbors first.
However you mention “apartment” and if this is a co-op you’re dealing with a different set of rules.

daveinbedstuy | 8 years and 4 months ago

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I wouldn’t have gotten a permit for that sort of work. Make sure the demoliton debris is removed quickly and no mess outside. This is basically a one week job if done efficiently. Also depends upon where you are to some point!

JorgeF | 8 years and 4 months ago

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I am an architect. You will need a permit in my opinion. you will need to do asbestos testing. You will need to comply with current energy codes unless you are in a landmark building, and energy codes are a good thing because you do what to insulate properly and the energy code is not remotely strict. That’s my opinion I am a fan of energy efficiency I like to specify more insulation than the minimum required by code. You will most likely need to make some of the new work fire rated depending on some variables.

stickerhappy | 8 years and 4 months ago

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Yeah putting aside the beauty of plaster since this plaster is in very poor shape and there is no original detailing left intact.
I just really want to figure out what I can do legally without a permit.
So say it was all currently drywall and I took it all down, insulated, and put back drywall– legit to do without a permit? That was my real question.

Augustiner | 8 years and 4 months ago

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you can also approach it differently.
stucco Insulation on the outside wall in the backyard..
Repoint your bricks or patch your brownstone to the front (can make a huge difference).
additionally maybe: blow in or slow rise foam insulation without opening walls.

Sound insulation is a whole different game and depends very much on the kind of sound you want to dampen.

BobMarvin | 8 years and 4 months ago

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If you replace plaster and lath with drywall I’m afraid the walls will NOT look exactly as they were before–far from it, and not for the better.

stickerhappy | 8 years and 4 months ago

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Yeah I’d be recovering all walls and ceilings with 5/8″ drywall.
To be clear, I’m not removing ANY studs or joists– only the plaster and drywall on them, so that can’t affect anything load-bearing.
Does that help?

bk123 | 8 years and 4 months ago

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drywall on clg should be 5/8″ type X at least. hard to know, not enuf info here

Guest User | 8 years and 4 months ago

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Depends. Fire rated? Load bearing?
Google RCNY §101-15 – NYC.gov and check the PDF

chemosphere | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Try a company that builds film sets. Otherwise they might be destined for a tax write-off donation to BIG reuse. Rehanging a used door is a lot of work and is usually only worth it for something vintage and special.

no-permits | 8 years and 5 months ago

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i’d say Staten Island or Bay Ridge.

nf85 | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Sorry, they’re gone!

dona | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Hi- Do you still have these? I would take them!

douglasmix | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Loads of thanks to everyone! You guys are a font of info! #Bond’s tale is cautionary and will definitely check out the gov site. We’re having the building’s architect come over next week to give us his assessment. I guess the basic issue is going to come down to new (in either new style or as close to original style as we can get) or restored, allowing for increases in efficiency, fire safety, etc. It will be interesting to hear what he has to say.

Guest User | 8 years and 5 months ago

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If you’re looking for someone to talk to about replacement, check out these folks http://www.aswindowassociates.com/. I never got a chance to work with them but I did get some good pricing on some unique 1949 casement windows in my previous job. They’re local, and might even know folks who do steel window restoration as well. This guy’s in Peekskill, does great work, probably expensive though http://www.seekirchersteelwindow.com/our-services/

louis.finabit | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Your best place to start to get educated on your steel windows is the National Park Service’s Technical Preservation Services website (https://www.nps.gov/tps/). Click on the “How to Preserve” tab, than on “Preservation Briefs”. Preservation Brief 13 is on the repair and thermal upgrade of steel windows. The brief itself is from 1984, but the information is still relevant.

Bond | 8 years and 5 months ago

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All the replacement parts you need are still available including casement cranks, safety glass, pebbled and clear, etc. The problem that you are going to run into is that these windows are single panes of glass, so very energy inefficient. The muntins (the grid part) is usually only about 1/2″ thick. This is enough to glaze a single pane, but the thinnest double paned window you’re going to be able to get will be 1/2″ thick. I’ve dealt with this in the past by siliconing the windows flush with the muntins. The look was acceptable, but I had a large failure rate in the glass seals and had to replace about ten percent of the panes the first year. You get a much smaller failure rate with traditional glazing as the putty acts as an additional seal. The other down side is that the seal itself is visible. It looks like a design element and I was fine with it, but some people may not like it.
Either way, you will not be able to use safety glass and double panes, it’s an either/or option.
I replaced the panes that had weak seals (you’ll know because you’ll end up w ith moisture between the panes), the rest have been fine with no additional replacements four or five years later, but it was still a pain.

cate | 8 years and 5 months ago

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There’s also a windows company upstate that specializes in rolled metal. But probably your best bet is just to refurbish what you have.