Contact info for Architect David Johnson

Shouldn’t take much to install it. Not sure what the relevance is between the window and the brick building… I would do it. Call me at 347-276-6528 Levi SoHoAppliances

levicapland

in Architecture 13 years and 11 months ago

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argentina | 13 years and 7 months ago

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THey are all pretty shady; I’ve been stuck with oil for ten years and will change the boiler shortly.I could have bought several boilers on what we’ve spent on oil….save yourself money and change to gas.

wholesalerbill1 | 13 years and 7 months ago

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I sell Wayne conversion burnersand I don’t sell too many throughout the year. Alot of inspectors want a letter from the boiler manufacturer stating that it’s o.k. to do this to their boiler. So far not one boiler manufacturer will submit any kind of letter stating that it’s o.k. to do, and you will lose any kind of warranty on the boiler if you use a conversion burner. Bite the bullit and do it the right way. Install a new boiler. YOU DO have to reline your chimney if converting from oil to gas. Don’t let anyone tell you different. There’s reasons we have codes and inspectors: It’s to protect you, the homeowner/enduser. You go cheap, you get cheap.

allans | 13 years and 7 months ago

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I use Boro Fuel Oil Co., my family and I have been with them since the 80’s.  They are very reliable and excellent customer service.  My monthly payment is $485.00 – that’s a budgeted monthly plan for a 3 family brownstone.  Each apartment contains 2 persons.  I recently received a letter that they have a new program called “Dollars and Sense Price Protection Plan”.   Sounds similar to the NYPIGRG – you can find out more here: http://boroenergy.com/borofuel/dollarsAndSense.php Looks like new customers get a FREE **one-year service contract.** Good Luck, Allan S.

timber | 13 years and 7 months ago

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When I used oil I joined the NYPIRG fuel buyers coop and it saved me quite a bit.  There main office was in Manhattan, membership fee was nominal, and they assign you to a local oil company and guarantee your rates at a relatively low rate.  It’s definitely worth checking out.

callalily | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Why are people so hot to convert to gas? I’m not sure it’s worth it — especially not if you have a new boiler. OK, maybe gas means less pollution in the environment, that’s important. But my oil system works really well, so far the cost is the same as gas, and I’m happy to have a choice of oil suppliers and not to be dealing with National Grid (except for stove gas). I have had so many problems with them in the past with incorrect billing and them thinking the gas was on when it was off and vice versa, it is simply amazing to me they can continue to conduct business.

steam_man | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Well here’s my real world experience…. I am in the process of repairing the fireboxes on 6 Slant Fin boilers that have a similar type burner to what you are describing. What will most likely wind up happening, unless you have a great burner mechanic to tune your burner, is that the flame will impinge the walls of the boiler. This will wreck the refractory, target wall, burner mounting plate insulation etc etc.. Eventually you may get leaks between the sections as the rope burns away and heats up the gaskets. Unless of course you get a great burner mechanic. BTW I am not that burner mechanic, I don’t like Carlins, Becketts, etc. Replace the boiler, if you plan to stay in the house for a number of years, you might want to explore installing a sealed combustion, gas, boiler.   -SteamMan

eman134 | 13 years and 7 months ago

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as mp and bobjohn said… if it seems too good to be true, it probably is a lie… you are trying to convert a boiler designed for oil into a boiler designed for gas by simply changing the burner..the target temperature and distances are totally different…a total waste of money

bobjohn | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Just to put things in perspective. If you want to conver to gas you will need: – apply for permit – run 1″ gas line to your burner – properly remove oil tank – reline chimney. I would guess these all will cost ~5-10K New high efficiency gas boiler with all rebates will cost 1K. So you really looking to save ~5-10% of the total cost and end up with insane and inefficient setup.

Master Plvmber | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Don’t ask online. Call Weil-McLain and ask their opinion of fitting a natural gas-burning burner into their boiler designed to work with oil, a fuel that produces a hotter flame. Ask them what you’re likely to gain in effiency by doing it and ask them if there’s anything else that needs to be done aside from just changing the buner. Then make your decision.
It’s the cheap way around doing the job properly and I don’t do it either. Ever.

Aodrafting | 13 years and 7 months ago

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I agree with Steve, caulking the gap will trap water. The gap between the brick and the lintel supporting the brick over an opening (door or window) should be clear of any and all material including caulking and mortar. Any water behind the lintel can weep out. If there is mortar between there,  then you should see weeps holes along the span. Good Luck.

citigyz | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Absolutely use morter cement. Caulk is a bad idea. Steve is correct

stevecym | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Do not use caulk to fill the gap. Do not ever run caulk in a horizontal position on any brick work. By running caulk horizontally on brick work and in some cases on wood work, you run this risk of water leaking in from above and running down and getting trapped behind the caulk. it can build up in there and it will freeze and it will damage the brick work (and can cause rot in woodwork). Steve http://brownstoner.staging.wpengine.com/tinkerswagon

namahs | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Thanks for the advice. I was not sure if I should fill the gap with mortar mix or caulk..I guess caulk it is =)

daveinbedstuy | 13 years and 7 months ago

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And use a good quality exterior, paintable caulk to fill the gap.   Welcome to home ownership.

jockdeboeraia | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Linels need to be regularly painted or they are going to rust. Do not paint over rust, strip the rust, prime the steel and then paint. Repeat the rest of your life or as long as you own the building.

Putnamdenizen | 13 years and 7 months ago

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I  think you need to reverse where you put your comment and where you put the title.  But welcome to life in the big city.  Some people are looking for a fix, and (many) people don’t pick up after themselves.  I find it worthwhile to periodically pick up all the trash on my block.  But I am OCD that way…

riis10 | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Had a terrible time with Bay Ridge Windows (drunk installer, refused to fix broken screens that came with the delivery, etc., expensive Andersens drafty after installation, etc.), but more recently – fantastic experience with Window-Fix in Sunset PArk.  Ernie is a real gem.  They carry Serious, Andersen, Marvin etc., but very open to other brands.  He found Armaclad (PA company), contacted Canadian companies for me and really has been great.  Went with Armaclad windows and a Kolbe door.  I was adamant about fiberglass triple pane, for several reasons, which are still a bit rare here, and he found them at a reasonable price.

riis10 | 13 years and 7 months ago

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Would just suggest getting the most energy efficient ones you can, ie, triple pane and someone who understands insulation around the frames welll, while you are at it, since it’s all so expensive.  Triple pane are still rare here, common elsewhere (CA and Eur) and the new standard here in a few years, and they make a remarkable difference re: sound and heat.  I opted for the maximum light (glass) possible and maximum insulation, as I liked the idea that windows can be as insulating as walls.  Best of luck – windows are so confusing, and it’s hard to forward-thinking, neutral info.

daveinbedstuy | 13 years and 7 months ago

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OK, I read this wrong.  I was thinking of the difference between inset replacements vs. full cased windows. Sash is different altogether and I think it will require an even better carpenter to do this job correctly without leaking.  Look into inset replacement costs too.  They are likely to wind up being more energy efficient and that makes a HUGE difference for heating bills