Indirect hot water heater help

Hi, Need to figure out what method of hot water to upgrade to for a 6 family. I have an old weil-mclain boiler that makes the domestic hot water but since the mixing valve broke, I want to relieve it of that duty. I’m thinking of indirect hot water heater but not sure if should just get a buffer tank, an indirect hot water or tankless? Can I keep the old boiler with all these methods? What brands are recommended? Is it worth getting a commercial one for warranty reasons? Any info would be helpful. Thanks

mozeeatupu

in Roofers 10 years and 8 months ago

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mozeeatupu | 10 years and 8 months ago

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Thanks for the informative discussion. It’s added some wrinkles in my search for a dependable solution. I suppose its now time to make some calls to get some estimates and ideas for both ways to proceed. Even if I decide not to replace the boiler now, it’ll be good to have a game plan in mind when that issue arises.

ellenlourie | 10 years and 8 months ago

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John, I had also seen last week boiler in lower manhattan on Grand street, 3 years old. And it failed for same reason. It is not about the boiler, It is about maintenance and system cleaning. Safety devices can be added to any boiler, and there is no need to change boiler if manual reset low water cut off is missing. Anyway, I don’t see them in residential installations. Or manual reset pressutroll.

Master Plvmber | 10 years and 8 months ago

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Gennady, I know you’ve seen a cutaway section of a 30-year old boiler. They cake up with scale internally that insulates the water from the flame. Stack temperatures rise as heat goes out the chimney instead of into the boiler water. At the residential level, it’s a bad idea to keep a boiler beyond 20-30 years. New boilers have safety controls for a reason, and yes, sometimes they need to be replaced, but the fact that a boiler is “working” is not enough reason to keep it in the home you sleep in with your family.

ellenlourie | 10 years and 8 months ago

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If boiler is working and not leaking, then there is no need to replace it. It is probably perfectly fine and better than most atmospheric new boilers on the market today. You can install storage tank and use boiler coil to produce and store domestic hot water in storage tank. You will need bronze or stainless steel circulator and mixing valve. Controls must be modified to prevent boiler to operate in condensing mode in certain situations. The good part of it is if you will replace the boiler you still will be able to use this set up with any new boiler. It will remove boiler short cycling and improve over all efficiency of your boiler. Also, on the sad side, looking at older boiler installations from 40-50s I’m often amazed by the craftsmanship, and looking at new installations I’m amazed of how poorly they done. Probably because all poor installation are gone by now and only exceptional ones are still around.

resident2 | 10 years and 8 months ago

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If you have your boiler inspected and maintained each year as per the law; your old boiler is less likely to blow up than some of the new boilers that maybe are not properly installed. At least you know the initial installation is not the problem! Personally I prefer the old cast iron boilers, the newer ones, the seals go this year, that goes another year, every year there is something needs changing because they just don’t make them like they used to! Keep the old boiler clean and maintained….and she should keep going fine. Yes get a separate water on demand gas hot water heater. As you have a 6 family you will need a high BTU, depending on your tenants rush hour so to speak. Also if you have what I call a side by side building ( a left side riser and and right side riser ) I have found it better to have two separate hot water heaters for each side; costs a bit more to buy & install but works better. Definitely go with a commercial model, there are more & more coming over from Europe, I wouldn’t know which brand to go with today.

mozeeatupu | 10 years and 8 months ago

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Ok, I don’t disagree about the safety and efficiency considerations, but some brands, systems pros and cons and ballpark cost between the options would give me some idea of what is currently feasible.

Master Plvmber | 10 years and 8 months ago

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A boiler from the ’40s or ’50s. Still “works”. Define “works” for me, please. Do you mean that it’s not actively leaking or on fire? I have a different definition. It has to do with efficiency and safety. Maybe someone else can help answer your question. Watch this in the meantime: http://abcnews.go.com/US/boiler-exploding-playroom-familys-home-washington-caught-nanny/story?id=29721461

mozeeatupu | 10 years and 8 months ago

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The boiler still works though. Wouldn’t it be essentially the same cost to replace it when and if it dies as it would be do it now? Any thoughts on what combination boiler/hot water heater or just a hot water heater to look at?

eman134 | 10 years and 8 months ago

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It is probably appropriate to replace the boiler as well

mozeeatupu | 10 years and 8 months ago

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Original boiler is a type H series 3, must be from the 40s or 50s. By tankless coil, you mean the coil in the boiler? That’s also original.

Master Plvmber | 10 years and 8 months ago

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How old is the existing boiler? Is your tankless coil the original with the boiler?