How to soundproof a row house?

Ever since our neighbors renovated their adjoining frame house, it’s like being in the room with them. We didn’t hear the previous neighbors to nearly the same degree. This is awful and when I’m on the phone with clients, they can hear the kid next door screaming, which she does a lot. There’s only 6 inches of brick between the houses so my husband doesn’t think that blowing in insulation is going to work. Anyone have recommendations for a sound proofing expert before I lose my mind?

miss718

in Roofers 9 years and 4 months ago

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arch111 | 9 years and 3 months ago

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1-5/8″ metal studs 1/4″ from wall, filled with Thermafiber 3000, 2 layers 5/8″ sheetrock with seams offset and all openings like outlets sealed..is about the best you could do.

MDR | 9 years and 3 months ago

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I agree the double layer of sheetrock is probably the best route. Just to clarify, the sheetrock should not be attached to the brick party wall. You need to frame a wall just inside the party wall (not touching) and screw the sheetrock to that. Also, in many houses there are holes or pockets that have been cut into the party wall over time for outlets, lights, plumbing, etc. These can be places where noise is coming through so make sure all of these are filled with mortar. Even though the new sheetrock will do most of the work in stopping the sound, I would also use acoustical batts to fill the space in the wall to get the best results.

arch111 | 9 years and 3 months ago

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decades ago when I was working in a facility at Bell Labs, the standard fix for noise complaints between offices was 2 layers rock ea side. http://nyc-dob.com

Augustiner | 9 years and 4 months ago

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Please note: Green glue or quiet rock are completely useless if slapped on directly to a brick wall. It’s not more expensive to do it right. Either collect the info from the Internet or find somebody who is experienced.

mozeeatupu | 9 years and 4 months ago

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Two sheetrock is as effective as quiet rock and much less expensive

slopefarm | 9 years and 4 months ago

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Thanks, DOW. I wasn’t trying to be that technical with the word. I merely wanted to say that it is not just how much mass you have but its properties that will determine how effectively the sound is kept out of the space. But I am not a professional in this area.

dorkofwindsor | 9 years and 4 months ago

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slope farm, i think you may be referring to a term called damping, not absorption. Absorption is a term (generally) used for the treatment of sound within a space, not to stop sound from entering or leaving. Absorption will slow down some sound (not by much), but the OP is right that insulation doesn’t really work much at all and is very expensive for what you get in NRC reduction. (sheetrock OTOH is prob the best bang for buck, and has decent damping properties as well). It is one of those counterintuitive principles in acoustics that almost every member of the general public gets wrong. There is only so much you can do i a retrofit without semi-gutting it or spending a fortune.

slopefarm | 9 years and 4 months ago

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Many years ago I worked on a professional matter with Alan Fierstein, who deals with soundproofing for bars, clubs, etc (and has testified as an expert for both sides of noise disputes). One thing he suggested to my client then was to add a second layer of sheetrock on top of the first and make sure that the seams do not line up, because the seems are a weak link for sound absorption (in that case, my client needed a third layer, plus some other measures, but he was running a space with live music under apartments). Sound really only needs a tiny opening. I would tweak dork’s comments to say you need not just mass but absorbtion. If the mass is unforgiving, it can vibrate and transmit the sound.

dorkofwindsor | 9 years and 4 months ago

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In general, sound is stopped by mass. However, it also diffracts (bends) so there is a weakest link theory at work. Professional soundproofing would require more mass to the walls, and insulating all outlets to be airtight (not with fiberglass insulation, but with something like 3M putty pads or Hilti putty pads, etc). While the sound will diffract above the wall (ceiling) and below the wall (floor) i am going to guess that you will do well just adding a layer of quiet rock – or two layers of sheetrock. If you want to get fancy you can attach with green glue. But its the mass that will be stopping sound. This is going to address any voice or some music (i.e. sound that travels through the air and into / through the wall), but any vibration issues you have (footfall noise, bass from music) isn’t going to be addressed easily. But the amount of mass you would be adding with more “wall” and sealing all penetrations will get you the best bang per buck. And, you might be able to get away with just directly hiring a sheetrock installer rather than a GC.

Rick | 9 years and 4 months ago

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Sound deadening can easily be done with products like Quiet Rock and Green Glue. Soundproofing is a much more complicated and a larger project. Best for you to consult an engineer.

Augustiner | 9 years and 4 months ago

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It seems to be more high sounds no bass, so that is easier. You need to build a partition and fill with roxul. Usethick Sheetrock, not the lightweight type. If bass is involved you need special vibration clips.

neweco | 9 years and 4 months ago

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Ive used Thermafiber 3000 on a project in Caroll Gardens with great results. The home was on Hicks Street which is right along side the BQE, so you could imagine the noise from the Highway .

thetinkerswagon | 9 years and 4 months ago

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are the houses attached? the comment about blowing in insulation confuses me and if they are attached, that is out. My guess is, that the neighbors pulled the plaster off the walls and my understanding is that bare brick is a horrible acoustic insulator. you need an accoustic engineer and there was one, who was quite generous with his time with me, located in lower Manhattan. I want to say around St Marks Place. If his name comes to me, I will post it. but you need a good contractor or engineer. and I hate to say it, but if you cannot isolate the structural members that are carrying the vibration, you are going to have a hard time with this- Steve

workisfun | 9 years and 4 months ago

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Some good ideas here… http://brownstoner.staging.wpengine.com/forums/topic/what-to-do-about-noisy-neighbor-with-new-girlfriend/