tiling whole floor instead of hardwood

thanks cate. the only thing they did right in these 1920’s queens houses.

stevecym

in General Discussion 4 years and 8 months ago

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greenworks | 4 years and 9 months ago

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@steve Yes! Our floor guy used it on our very yellow/pink original softwood subfloors upstairs. It looks great and counteracted almost all of the yellow/pink shading.

We’re super into the “old as new” floor finishes /treatments and had wanted to use something like the Dinesen lye to “bleach” out the yellows/pinks but our floor guy was like “why do that when you could do the Bona Nordic Oil? It will save you money and time and get you same effect.” I was afraid it would look too white but the Bona instructions are correct-you can build it to go whiter/more Scandi or apply less and have a more subtle effect. We did one coat and it covered the harsh undertones but kept the natural look.

We’re super happy and it looks great almost two years in.

OP you should check the Bona out for sure and we loved our floor guy- he did our downstairs as well with the original parquet with inlay in Pallman Magic Oil. He knows his stuff and was a great person to work with. If interested I’ll post his info.

stevecym | 4 years and 9 months ago

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A full sand would take that back to it’s natural color. One might worry that some of the dark stain remains between some boards but the wood appears tight so that should be minimal. If any remained, some had and knee work would take care of it. I would bet a good bit that it is red oak. See what boo is saying.

Bob, it’s that gun stock color again and I am with you.

stevecym | 4 years and 9 months ago

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I cannot tell from the photo if OP’s floor has stain on it as well as poly or just poly that has ambered (it looks like mine here and but the dark lines in some of the open grain make me think it was stained as well as poly’d). also, now that i am looking at the floor on my laptop, i can see that the boards are not as tight as i thought while looking at it on a small screen. and i have to admit this: i have never sanded a floor that had been stained, just poly’d so i am not sure how stain behaves around the crevices between the wood, say if someone had redone an old floor and stained and poly’d and that got down into the loose spots; in truth stuff like this might really show up on a floor that will be left as light as possible. i am not sure how deep the stain goes between boards and if it will leave dark lines. and if a floor is stained, it may very well have been done with applicators that have gotten into tight spots.

A pro who does this day in and day out will know what to do in this situation but this is what i would do if this were my house and i am thi nking about sanding the floors in my house (myself): i would sand with 36/40, then 60 (in truth, when i sand a floor, i sometimes make a quick run with 60 to break the surface a little and then go to 36 and back to 60 for a proper run). I would stop after 60 and inspect the floor. if i saw stuff (stain/finish) down in any spots between boards, or in any cracks or if there were any cracks, i would get down on my hands and knees and remove this stuff and fill cracks that are too open and deep to deal with otherwise. i would then sand with 80 and 100.

what i just said is only a thought and one of the guys who does floors day in and day out may have a better opinion.

also, now that i have seen it on the laptop, i would most definitely say it is red oak, not white.

cate | 4 years and 9 months ago

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You have very neat and pretty floors and baseboards, stevecym.