Radiant heat & wood flooring

Thanks to all for the feedback on this topic!

Northie

in Flooring 9 years and 4 months ago

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Northie | 9 years and 5 months ago

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We are planning a reno and are considering installing Carlisle wide plan wood flooring over radiant heat (Warmboard). My research has yielded mixed results, so interested in thoughts and experiences with this combination.

Augustiner | 9 years and 5 months ago

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Engineered woodfloors work fine. So if you have a reclaimed wood that come on some sort of MDF or plywood base that’s no problem. I have read that solid quarter sawn hardwood is recommended also, but I have a 4 inch rift quarter oak installed without radiant and it’s shrinking a lot in winter mainly due to the dry air.

Master Plvmber | 9 years and 5 months ago

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Do not install radiant heat on your new wood floor without a slab sensor to monitor the temperature. You have to limit your surface temperature to 85°F. Some wood floor manufacturers recommend 80°F. For this reason, you get a limited amount of heat from the floor. It may be enough, but it may not. It has to be thought about, a lot, before committing to it.

deancollins | 9 years and 5 months ago

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@MP 80f seems really high, do I take it that you don’t do underfloor heating regularly then?

ellenlourie | 9 years and 5 months ago

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To deancollins Actually 80F of the floor temperature is pretty low for radiant heating. It is common misconception even between people who are in the trade that floor temperature is the temperature of the room. It is not.

deancollins | 9 years and 5 months ago

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@Gennady no I didn’t think it would be but who would want a room at 80f all winter…..too hot. Your attachment is great, however this is only if the ceiling has no insulation. In a well prepared, well insulated room wouldn’t the upper be warmer than the lower portions of the room. Eg if you are seeking a perfect balance at 68f then wouldn’t just off the floor eg lower 1ft etc be the coldest part and the upper portions of the ceiling be higher than 68f? Isnt that the whole point of doing the calculations on the run lengths so that you know how many linear feet you require in order to deliver the perfect temp of 68? +/- as required by the individual home owner?

ellenlourie | 9 years and 5 months ago

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To deancollins In radiant heating applications temperature of the air in the room should not be controlled. There is no air circulation in the room as well. Heat is transferred via heating rays directly to the objects in the room. Humane bodies have own thermal regulation and pick up their comfort zone. 67-68F is the normal air temperature of the air at 5′ elevation in the radiant heating. The main goal in the radiant heating is to keep floor temperature at 82-85F depending on certain conditions. Temperature of the air matters only when auxiliary heating is required. Imagine the floor as a giant light bulb generating heat. Of Course there’s more to that, but let’s keep it simple here. There is whole science behind this.

Master Plvmber | 9 years and 5 months ago

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deancollins, why are you commenting on this since you clearly have no idea?

deancollins | 9 years and 5 months ago

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lol I didn’t realize people with questions couldn’t post these questions into a public forum MP 🙂

Master Plvmber | 9 years and 5 months ago

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Right. And I guess this was meant to be taken in the spirit of productivity: “@MP 80f seems really high, do I take it that you don?t do underfloor heating regularly then?”

deancollins | 9 years and 5 months ago

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@MP If I’m wrong about the upper part of an insulated room please let me know? I know in our duplex its quite noticeable that the downstairs is cooler (to the point where most of the time we just run the heaters downstairs and let the heat drift up) but that may also be because of the cooking/fridge/tv-appliances/computers etc @MP What is the “striation” of heat in a normal 12ft room between upper and lower levels with radiant floor heating?

deancollins | 9 years and 5 months ago

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and no it was seriously a question. (you having a bad day?)

Master Plvmber | 9 years and 5 months ago

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You used to post as deanbh, right? I remember you.

deancollins | 9 years and 5 months ago

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same account but I lost access to that old email address so had to sign up again. I don’t ever remember speaking with you before today so to be honest not sure why you have a burr under your bonnet but I guess I’m not going to be able to get relevant answers to my question so last time i’ll post to you but yes it was a serious question.

carmenf | 9 years and 5 months ago

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Northie- have you gotten a quote from Warmboard for materials and an installation quote yet? We ended up scrapping our warmboard project after getting all of the quotes together- it was a fortune and there were only a few people in the city who would install it, so it was nearly impossible to get competitive bids.

Lurker | 9 years and 5 months ago

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We did an install last March (when it was freezing) and are in the process of tweaking it now. Note it wasn’t warmboard but underfloor, using Wirsbo heat transfer panels (we had access via a basement ceiling. Generally we love it but things aren’t “perfect.” As the pros describe above it’s a whole new paradigm in heating. With radiant underfloor, the heat doesn’t rise or blow around, as with hot air, instead energy is radiating in all directions heating things the way those infrared outdoor gas heaters do (which means you might even consider using wall or ceiling radiant if flooring doesn’t work). I don’t have the numbers onhand but part of why it’s so effective is that humans tend to feel comfortable when our feet are warm, I think the average “perfect” temp is like 78 or so degrees. Much more than that and it may feel sweaty and hot, even just a couple degrees. Assuming things are done right, the objects in your room, including your floor and you, are continuously heated to around 80 degrees and you sort of set it and forget it. Right now I heat to 74 degrees ambient and that generally which is a 79 degree floor, which feels nice. To get that, the water circulating underneath is 115 degrees or so.

workisfun | 9 years and 5 months ago

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lurker – is the “staple-up” your sole source of heat for that floor? we are considering it, but would love to talk with people who have actually done it. thanks.

bklynpwds | 9 years and 5 months ago

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We did a 3 floor reno using Warmboard and added the “staple-up” version on our garden floor (we had already renovated that floor and had access from the cellar.) The Warmboard system is set at 70 degrees in all of the rooms (quarter sawn oak) with the the bathrooms set at 72 (tile floors.) We never change the temperatures–we originally had the system cycle on/off but were told to find the temp that the house felt comfortable at and stick with it. It was the *best* money we spent out of the entire reno. The house is comfortable without being chilly or too stuffy. The only time we actually feel that the floors are heated is when we wake up and walk into the bathroom, where the tile floors feel warm, rather than freezing as they used to when we had a radiator heating system. The “staple-up” system needs more adjusting. It’s on the floor where the doors are more often opened/closed and where the kitchen is located, which could be part of the issue. It is also where we have only 1 zone. The Warmboard system has thermostats in each room, with the hallways/closets controlled from one of the rooms on each floor. Besides the reduction in our heating bills, we love how completely quiet the system is and how the whole house feels evenly heated. There are no pockets of cold or heat.

Lurker | 9 years and 5 months ago

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workisfun yes sole heat except for a panel radiator in the front door vestibule. it’s on parlor floor, about 1000 square feet with maybe 800 or so heated, split into 4 zones. As bklynpwds says we have a few cold patches–the installer was sloppy?and by the front door as it hasn’t been properly insulated well. I think making some tweaks would help. There’s a lot of moving parts to get there and it’s a somewhat costly investment, especially if you get a qualified plumber/heating expert to do the work (and you should). But no regrets so far here. Just as a heads up, for hardwood floors the general consensus as i understand it is that 3″ is the widest you should go to maintain dimensional stability, otherwise the natural breathing of the floor and the heat source may end up with large floor gaps or boards popping, depending on humidity. With engineered I think it’s less or even not an issue.