What wood to use on Parlor floor

A good floor guy can get you close or nail the look of the new to the old. It may be costly but you need to decide if it’s worth it. If it is then go for it. If not then at least replicate the pattern and put a chair or rug over it until you can find someone who can stain it to match. As for the look of the old floor. There is no clear cut wood that will resemble those markings so you may need to consider hiring a faux painter to do it and then your floor guy can stain and seal as you desire. Good luck.

BKALLDAY

in General Discussion 6 years and 2 months ago

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nicolemull | 6 years and 2 months ago

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We are about to replace our parlor floors. Originally I wanted to do an exact duplicate of what we currently have to maintain the look of the parlor level. These were Parquet tiles with one inch walnut trim all around each room. The current parquet is unique because it is made of 1 inch slats nailed in so that each parquet tile is 12×12 made up of 12 strips.
Turns out reproducing this will be prohibitively expensive. There is an already made parquet floor that is 2″ wide but it just doesn’t look the same and there are smaller parquet tiles (4 tiles for each 12×12″) which is way too small.
So I am back to the drawingboard to decide what kind of wood and what style to use. Needs to be light like the oak (which i’m not super fond of) so looking for a different wood (hickory??) and I’m thinking pre-finished (which doesn’t seem to be an option with the 2″ strip parquet) to minimize dust .

Has anyone done this recently? did you use pre-finished? why/why not? regrets? and white style and wood did you use did you like it? why/why not? thanks so much!

yudashasom | 6 years and 2 months ago

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You can mimic an original look with 2-1/2 white oak layed diagonal inside a border. Not exactly original to your house, but it looks period. You can leave it natural for a lighter look, or use a stain to give it an antique look.

nicolemull | 6 years and 2 months ago

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thanks for that idea. Can you think of another light wood other than oak? Maybe because i see it everywhere I’m not a huge fan…

nicolemull | 6 years and 2 months ago

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and are there any negatives to using pre-finished floors?

cate | 6 years and 2 months ago

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There are huge negatives to using prefinished floors. No matter how much you spend or what you specify, it will look fake. And definitely out of place in a brownstone. I think they’re OK in fun, lighthearted commercial installations with an industrial look such as restaurants and offices but I would definitely not use in a home. As for the oak, the installer can seal and stain it a color you like. Be sure to test first. If you use water based poly for the finish it should not affect the color much or at all.

nicolemull | 6 years and 2 months ago

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I was afraid of that… (re: prefinished floors). given the difference in install price AND the dust factor (we have huge allergies and asthma problems in my family) I was soooo hoping that someone would say they have done pre-finished and it looks fine….. sigh…

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years and 2 months ago

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Is the original floor really so far gone trhat it cannot be patched, sanded, and refinished?

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years and 2 months ago

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The sawdust from sanding floors is no where near as bad as plaster dust and could easily be vacuumed up by whoever does refinishing.

yudashasom | 6 years and 2 months ago

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White oak is pretty light, are you sure you are not thinking of red oak?

yudashasom | 6 years and 2 months ago

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“Select” grade will be clearer and appear lighter as well.

Arkady | 6 years and 2 months ago

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If any of the original floor remains, you’ll see the difference – the old wood was “quarter sawn” so the grain has a distinctive appearance.

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years and 2 months ago

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Arkady points out a good reason to keep the old floor unless most of it is missing

stoopsitter | 6 years and 2 months ago

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Quarter sawn white oak would be wonderful but is indeed prohibitively expensive. And I think you’ll find that hickory is too rustic. OK perhaps for a ground floor kitchen but not formal enough for the parlor floor. Have you considered Douglas fir or heart pine? Both woods were used extensively in old homes so are quite authentic for use in a brownstone. Can also be finished with a light white stain for a more Scandinavian look. If you choose a “vertical grain” plank, the overall appearance is very uniform. We bought this flooring from Pioneer Millworks in upstate NY when we renovated almost 20 years ago. One of the best things we did. And our GC was very impressed by the quality. With hindsight, I would have done only heart pine because it’s harder than the Doug fir but we did mostly the latter for cost reasons. Both are beautiful looking.

stoopsitter | 6 years and 2 months ago

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Further to my post above, see today’s “Brooklyn RE 6 months later”: the Prospect Heights house has Douglas fir floors.

2345bcde | 6 years and 2 months ago

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PC hardwood flooring has the parquet flooring you’re looking for. They also have the walnut banding strip to match. I did a rather large room predrilling and counterinking all the nails. It is extremely time consuming face nailing a floor ( they’re are thousands of nails ). The nails are hand nailed not shot in with a brad gun. People also glue the parquet tile down avoiding the nailing). I am talking about 12” inch by 12” made of oak. They are not the junky parquet tile with the wire in them that you see in cheap renovations. They are exactly what you’re looking for ( old school brownstone parquet). If you or your neighbors work from home it’s hours and days worth of banging. As a side note the way you get the honey color of the floor is to finish it with an oil based polyurethane ( no need for any stain). The oil will give you a golden color the water based will have no color and will look exactly like the raw wood. Don’t let the floor guy talk you into using brads or water based poly ( it will not hold the floor down and will not be the right look). Make sure to hire someone who will take the time to layout the floor correctly in the room ( centered and square). The adjustments are made from the outside of the band into the base, the center parquet should be nice and square in the room. That’s exactly how to do it.

yudashasom | 6 years and 2 months ago

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While they make parquet tile sheets, they won’t have exactly what they used in the old days. Which is why I suggested 2-1/4 diagonal. These are face nailed with a nailer AND glued – not tongue and groove. Glue is not a substitution for nails. Hand nailing would be asinine and pointless nowadays.

PC is a complete rip off unless you are hasidic. I’ve dealt with them 30+ times over the years and it’s the same thing every time. I always regret going.

Try Dynasty on McDonald.

daveinbedstuy | 6 years and 2 months ago

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Check with a number of floor refinishers. A lot of them have old stock of these that they’ve accumulated from jobs. I know Jose said he did. 917-355-7977

brokelin | 6 years and 2 months ago

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It is never clear that the photo with these forum posts is the actual floor one is inquiring about (and it usually isn’t – it is most often a stock photo). But, having seen and lived with a lot of these original oak brownstone floors, I think oak is the best floor to replace the floorboards with for the right look in a brownstone. I agree with others that Douglas pine or heart pine (which I’ve also lived with, 100 years old, quite beautiful, but not in a brownstone) are good bets, but not as good a fit as oak. And take into account the difference, as noted above, between white and red oak. Also, if you don’t want the yellowing/ambering that happens with oil-based poly, and decide that water-based poly isn’t strong enough (or even if it is), check out some of the oil-based finishes that can be used in lieu of poly with great looking results. (After all, poly is not original – old floors were waxed periodically – but that is likely more labor intensive than you want to use now.)

The best look and fit will be old wood reclaimed from other similar homes – if you can fi nd enough of it for your entire parlor floor. Another little-used option is to have your current floor hand-finished, using reclaimed wood for any places where you may be missing parquet. Often when they say a brownstone parquet for can’t take another sanding, they mean the usual sanding with a floor sander. Sometimes there is enough to wood left to largely just strip and refinish with minimal sanding – using stripper, hand tools, and perhaps a hand sander. I saw one such 1890’s oak parquet brownstone floor that was done entirely by hand – and it was far more beautiful than even a very well-done typical excellent job done using a floor sander. Hand work is much more expensive than using a floor sander, but perhaps not more than buying new flooring and having it installed and finished.