Pale but durable wood floors

If you do oil finish you are probably going to need to vacate your house for a few days. The fumes are overwhelming (and maybe even toxic) and carry from to room to room quite easily.

angelique.m.west

in General Discussion 6 years ago

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nsloper | 6 years ago

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We have 4″ white oak boards in the parlor floor of our house, including in the dining room and kitchen. We finished them with a pale stain just 3 years ago, and they are looking very beat up already. Do you have any advice for keeping the wood light but the scratches/age minimal? I don’t want to heavily varnish them like in a gymnasium, but I really don’t know what else to do. Help!

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years ago

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I’ve had really good results with a product called Rejuvenate. It’s available through HD or Amazon

hkapstein | 6 years ago

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Are you looking to resurface the floor or just touch up? Given the light color finish probably a water based poly was used. I always hear how great they are now, but my experience has been questionable durability particularly around water, although I never used one on a floor myself. Since the damage is mostly in the finish, you could screen and refinish with a similar product. Screening will scuff up the floor without penetrating the original finish. This will give you a new looking floor as long as the wood surface wasn’t reached by the damage. You can DIY this, but it shouldn’t be that expensive, and won’t look good if you mess it up. Plan on doing it every couple years if that’s how long the finish is lasting. Once the damage reaches the wood, you’d have to sand off the entire finish and redo it which is more work and thins the flooring. Also, you may want to put a rug or other floor covering in places that tend to get beat up if that’s aesthetically feasible.

Another option, have a UV cured finish done. This will be much harder than water based finish, but with out the amber color usually occurring with solvent based finishes.

When you said you finished with a stain, I assume you used some kind of polyurethane, either on top of the stain, or a tinted poly product. If you did not, then that is your problem right there, and you’ll want to finish the floor with a polyurethane topcoat. Use a matte or satin finish if you don’t want it glossy. If you hate the look of poly you could do an oil finish floor which can be repaired just by rubbing on more oil. But I don’t think it would be a good choice but an area that tends to get beat up.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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it sounds like OP stained them with no varnish coating on top. It seems people are doing that now, stains and these new oils that soak into the wood (sort of like tung or linseed or teak oil). i know little about them except to say, it does not seem that they offer a barrier between the wood and foot traffic. yes, oils can act as a sealer and keep out other oil and perhaps dirt, but my guess is the wood is still subject to physical damage. it does not sound like screening is an option.

It is always easier to hide damage in darker woods and woods with darker stains. white is a tough one. perhaps if the OP finds a way to fix it and the product they are using can take coatings, they can consider a water-based matt finish which would build less than oil poly and have almost no gloss.

as a purist, i had resisted water base finishes for a long time. i had to finally give in and begin using them about 10 years ago, mostly for interior work, and i have to say that they have come a long way since they first came out decades ago. there are now products wit h cross-links (Basic Coatings “street shoe”) which appear to be very durable. i did a staircase right after Storm Sandy with the Basic Coatings and get to see it regularly and it looks like it was done yesterday. I finally tired of screening my own kitchen floor and applying an oil finish to it and sanded it off and redid it with a durable water based finish; it seems fine a year on. screening and coating the water based product will be a lot less hassle than the oil down the road.

steve

stevecym | 6 years ago

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and urbanded: do you what the downside of water based poly is? alcohol reacts with it so it is hard to use in drinking establishments. my floor looks good still, so either we are drinking less or spilling less.

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years ago

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The seps that Urbandad suggests would be good IF something like Rejuvinate doesn’t work but IMO it’s best to try the simplest fix first.

cate | 6 years ago

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We sealed our pine floors with four coats of best quality water based poly in satin finish and it has held up unbelievably well for 10 years and is still going strong. You can’t even see there is any coating on the wood until the final coat. The satin is not totally matte but it’s not glossy either. Satin water-based poly does not darken or change the color of the wood.

citykitty | 6 years ago

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Cate, what brand did you use?

hkapstein | 6 years ago

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The only thing I would have done differently in cate’s method is to use gloss for the undercoats. The deglossing agent is considered to reduce the strength of the finish, and the the top coat generally determines the sheen. If you put a coat of gloss poly over 3 coats of satin, it will look very glossy, and the reverse is also true.

I’m not sure about this new oil option. Is it different than a normal oil finish? I’ll have to check this out but if there’s no film building finish it sounds like it falls in that category. It might be interesting to put an oil based varnish over an oil finish. The UV is relatively new option that I think would compare favorably to other methods.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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urbanded, these oil finishes seem to come under names like osmo (?) and rubio mono coat. no building and yes, falls in that category. not sure if they come in white so i may be wrong to have mentioned them. i have never used them but have seen the results and they are appealing and no yellowing. so yes, that begs the question, can oil finish go over these??? but keep in mind people who use them do not want build.

another thing we have been told lately (by the sellers of water base finish) is that water base can be applied over old (very old) oil. i have not done it yet. but i wonder if water base finish can be applied over these other oils? i mean if they have dried for years? it is not something i would attempt without calling both the manufacturer of the oil and the manufacturer of the water base finish.

cate | 6 years ago

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Citykitty, it was 10 years ago so I am not sure, but if memory serves, it was Bona.

daveinbedstuy | 6 years ago

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I just refinished floors here in Philly. Floors that had been sanded and refinished about 20 years ago. Screened and three coats of satin poly. They look great but they were dark stained to begin with which doesn’t show this sort of wear. I have a maple floor in another house with a light stain and I have the same issues. I think it’s time for a screening of that one and poly. I have used Rejuvenate on them and it is a good, but temporary and fleeting fix.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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DIBS: i think bob has a vested interest in the Rejuvinate company.

Bona is widely popular. the Basic Coatings products are possibly geared for commercial which is why we went with it. the downside to that is it might be priced commercial as well, i think it was like $100 a gallon. just as easy to use, even with the cross link.

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keep in mind, OP cannot screen stain if that is what is on their floors.

cate | 6 years ago

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Urbandad, with all due respect, in my experience, it is not a good idea to mix the sheens. As a matter of fact, we did two coats of satin and it looked marvelous — actually you couldn’t see the poly, so we became concerned it would not be durable. So we added a semi gloss on the next coat. Big mistake! The walnut stained pine floors turned crazy colors and dark. Then we had to try to sand it off which wasn’t entirely successful — the floors did not return to their former beautiful hue but are now a bit on the red side although thank goodness no longer striped yellow orange purple etc. — and took the remaining wood with it. Then we finished with two more coats of satin. The stairs never had the semi gloss, only four coats of satin and they look incredible and both the stairs and all the floors have held up unbelievably well. Anyway, the point is, four coats of satin is very durable and will not darken or change the color of light floors in my experience. (We als o sealed the wood before staining.) I highly recommend using an experienced professional, although oak is easier to deal with than pine.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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cate, something else must have happen there. it is a very common practice for us to mix sheens, not as a wet product, but coat over dry coat. we use gloss to build and then finish where the customer wants it. it is probably done this way because of what urbanded said, about the durability of the gloss but also the build. i face this many times a year and always build with gloss. it is actually the way we are taught from day naught.

i just called Pettit varnishes yesterday with a heap of questions and the tech guy stated that flatteners weaken the product and building should still be done with gloss. so nothing has changed in the industry in this regards with finishes.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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cate. i am wondering something else here. if the finish you used had a tint in it. People should be aware of this: some water base floor finishes come pre tinted with a little amber in it so it looks like the old oil poly we are used to. there are also still clear water bases for those who do not want the amber.

i am wondering if yours had some tint in it and it did something. tinted top coats sometimes do bizarre and unpredictable things depending on what was used to tint it. lighting can effect the tints in different ways as well – i sometimes think colors refract off each other in bright light but i may be wrong.

sorry folks who do not like my excessive posts, but this is to the point of the discussion and from experience.

nsloper | 6 years ago

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Thank you, everybody, for the replies! I think there was a coat of satin poly applied after the stain, because there is a light sheen to the floor that I don’t think would be there on bare wood (correct me if I’m wrong, through!) I am going to try Rejuvinate because (1) I can do it myself, and (2) I am hoping not to have to sand and refinish, because we are living here and don’t want to deal with dust getting everywhere.

nsloper | 6 years ago

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Generally the problems are just on the finish, except right by the sink. We had a comfy foam mat there, and unfortunately, it seems that it retained water underneath each time we mopped. We got 1 or 2 years ago, and when I lifted it up this week after a big spill, I see that the wood underneath has warped. Augh! Just a word of warning: plastic foam mats are NOT rugs, you will not see the wet underneath, and real damage can happen to your floor.

… I am thinking of just putting a rug over it for now, after the Rejuvenation. Not a permanent solution, obviously, but it will do for now.