Pale but durable wood floors

If you do oil finish you are probably going to need to vacate your house for a few days. The fumes are overwhelming (and maybe even toxic) and carry from to room to room quite easily.

angelique.m.west

in General Discussion 6 years ago

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RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years ago

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stevecym: no vested interest in the Rejuvinate company :-). I think their advertising is actually pretty tacky, but the stuff was recommended by a neighbor years ago and I’ve found that it’s cheap, easy to apply, and works really well–MUCH better than my old floor buffer and paste wax. If it doesn’t work on a floor it’s always possible to proceed with more drastic measures, but my floors were sanded and polyurathaned in 1974 and look good with an application of Rejuvinate every few years. I’m pretty sure there are other similar brands that work just as well but I haven’t found the need to seek them out. Another product I always recommend, for furniture and woodwork, is Howard’s Restore-a-Finish. No connection to that company either, but I DO like shortcuts that work well.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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bob, those things you recommend should always be the go to for the beginner or homeowner. my mom used stuff like that in the ’70’s and i learned a lot with them before realizing i could make my own. we don’t use them only because we are beyond them in terms of already having all sorts of oils, tints, and varnishes in house (even if we don’t use them, they are here from jobs past). once a home owner uses the kits, they can move from there and take say an oil (straight) or with thinners or driers and add tints (transtint or moxil, forget the stuff the corner paint store has). but the tints are expensive to buy for something someone may do twice a year so unless the user needs a bizarre color, those kits win.

i’d say with all the plugging you do of the rejuvinate product, we should all be looking to invest in it:-)

hkapstein | 6 years ago

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Interesting, I don’t think it will hurt to try the rejuvenate, if that extends the life of your finish then why not. It’s smart to work incrementally and avoid stepping onto a slippery slope that leads from screening a floor to doing a major remodel.

Also, I wanted mention to cate that she should not lose any sleep over not building with gloss. The floor sounds like it’s fine, and I’ve done this myself on small projects where I didn’t want to buy two cans of varnish. I doubt mixing sheens would have caused your color issue. If anything building with gloss will usually give a better appearance since too many coats of deglossed varnish can develop a hazy or plastic look. But if you’re happy with the result and it’s holding up to your lifestyle I wouldn’t think twice about it.

If anyone crunchy is starting a new project, it’s probably best practice to build with gloss.

Regarding water based poly over a pure oil finish, I doubt this would work. If the oil is working as it’s supposed to, water should bead up on the surface and that would prevent the water based coating from being applied. However, you could concievably put one coat of shellac or oil based varnish over the oil and put water base on top of that. Water base over fully cured oil base should work, the key being that the oil itself is gone. To be fair, I’ve never actually tried putting waterbase onto a surface that contained oil, so if there’s a way to do it I’d be interested. I did once try putting linseed oil on an outdoor project before applying spar varnish to it, and I was happy with how that worked out. It seems to buy a little extra time after the varnish starts to fail before the wood itself starts to turn grey. However I’m not sure I have enough experience to recommend that in general.

dorkofwindsor | 6 years ago

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Nsloper – i have seen numerous water poly installs By pros that are just sub-par. No where nearly as thick as they should be. They way they are coating is too thin. One coat is totally insufficient and two is still a joke. I need to do floors soon myself and have much research to do., sorry i cant be more specific than that. Most of the floors i have seen still have raised grain popping through from day one. One of these was on an original white oak floor. I’m so disappointed By what I have seen i may just buy factory finished floors.

nsloper | 6 years ago

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You know, that is what I think happened. I kind of remember waiting through two coats of poly to dry. Bleh. I guess now I know!

stevecym | 6 years ago

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ok, nsloper, the water dries fast. 2 hours plus to recoat. oil is overnight. oil also stinks.

Dork, with oil three coats of high build (two over a seal coat) is sufficient and all that is recommended as if it is too thick it will chip. WATER base takes FOUR coats and they say this on the can. screen after the first coat. two coats in a day. it does not build the same as oil. check out Basic Coatings Street Shoe but if you use that pricey product, you had better hire the right person.

as i wrote this i took a glance at my kitchen that has 4 coats of water base on it and no, it did not build like the oil. the mrs was pleased though.