Pale but durable wood floors
We have 4″ white oak boards in the parlor floor of our house, including in the dining room and kitchen. We finished them with a pale stain just 3 years ago, and they are looking very beat up already. Do you have any advice for keeping the wood light but the scratches/age minimal? I don’t want to heavily varnish them like in a gymnasium, but I really don’t know what else to do. Help!
nsloper
in General Discussion 6 years ago
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cate | 6 years ago
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We sealed our pine floors with four coats of best quality water based poly in satin finish and it has held up unbelievably well for 10 years and is still going strong. You can’t even see there is any coating on the wood until the final coat. The satin is not totally matte but it’s not glossy either. Satin water-based poly does not darken or change the color of the wood.
RobertGMarvin
in General Discussion 6 years ago
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The seps that Urbandad suggests would be good IF something like Rejuvinate doesn’t work but IMO it’s best to try the simplest fix first.
stevecym | 6 years ago
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and urbanded: do you what the downside of water based poly is? alcohol reacts with it so it is hard to use in drinking establishments. my floor looks good still, so either we are drinking less or spilling less.
stevecym | 6 years ago
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it sounds like OP stained them with no varnish coating on top. It seems people are doing that now, stains and these new oils that soak into the wood (sort of like tung or linseed or teak oil). i know little about them except to say, it does not seem that they offer a barrier between the wood and foot traffic. yes, oils can act as a sealer and keep out other oil and perhaps dirt, but my guess is the wood is still subject to physical damage. it does not sound like screening is an option.
It is always easier to hide damage in darker woods and woods with darker stains. white is a tough one. perhaps if the OP finds a way to fix it and the product they are using can take coatings, they can consider a water-based matt finish which would build less than oil poly and have almost no gloss.
as a purist, i had resisted water base finishes for a long time. i had to finally give in and begin using them about 10 years ago, mostly for interior work, and i have to say that they have come a long way since they first came out decades ago. there are now products wit h cross-links (Basic Coatings “street shoe”) which appear to be very durable. i did a staircase right after Storm Sandy with the Basic Coatings and get to see it regularly and it looks like it was done yesterday. I finally tired of screening my own kitchen floor and applying an oil finish to it and sanded it off and redid it with a durable water based finish; it seems fine a year on. screening and coating the water based product will be a lot less hassle than the oil down the road.
steve
hkapstein | 6 years ago
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Are you looking to resurface the floor or just touch up? Given the light color finish probably a water based poly was used. I always hear how great they are now, but my experience has been questionable durability particularly around water, although I never used one on a floor myself. Since the damage is mostly in the finish, you could screen and refinish with a similar product. Screening will scuff up the floor without penetrating the original finish. This will give you a new looking floor as long as the wood surface wasn’t reached by the damage. You can DIY this, but it shouldn’t be that expensive, and won’t look good if you mess it up. Plan on doing it every couple years if that’s how long the finish is lasting. Once the damage reaches the wood, you’d have to sand off the entire finish and redo it which is more work and thins the flooring. Also, you may want to put a rug or other floor covering in places that tend to get beat up if that’s aesthetically feasible.
Another option, have a UV cured finish done. This will be much harder than water based finish, but with out the amber color usually occurring with solvent based finishes.
When you said you finished with a stain, I assume you used some kind of polyurethane, either on top of the stain, or a tinted poly product. If you did not, then that is your problem right there, and you’ll want to finish the floor with a polyurethane topcoat. Use a matte or satin finish if you don’t want it glossy. If you hate the look of poly you could do an oil finish floor which can be repaired just by rubbing on more oil. But I don’t think it would be a good choice but an area that tends to get beat up.
RobertGMarvin
in General Discussion 6 years ago
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I’ve had really good results with a product called Rejuvenate. It’s available through HD or Amazon