Paint Stripping Pros Recommendations

harvesting old grown pine, cape fear.

https://www.oldgrowthriverwood.com/building-with-history/

justinromeu26

in General Discussion 1 year and 8 months ago

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jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Nice… I was so involved with trying to get it all off with one tool, I didn’t think of a two step process as my results with the chemical strippers were NOT good on the paint…. There is definitely a residual of varnish and Shellac after the cobra process. Nice.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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I did not mention it because i don’t think your house has it but older houses have wax. Mineral spirits will soften wax and steel wool run over it will take it off.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Yes I’ve tried steel wool.. just disintegrates with vigorous rubbing… Very frustrating.
I do use mineral spirits for the “final” burnish.

LOL… Im gonna need more doors to try all the suggestions.. LOL.

normandy | 1 year and 8 months ago

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@CHM Can you share Maria’s phone number also?

cate | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Just a note for any novices trying to do this: Even if you are working outdoors, you need to prevent fumes from entering the house and also you need to cover everything including the ground outside and wear booties to protect surfaces and keep from tracking around the lead-containing paint sludge your work will create. If you get paint sludge on adjacent surfaces, even outside, you are going to have to strip that. Also use an old crummy ladder you don’t care about and wear gloves while moving it. We tried to strip paint ourselves for years and eventually paying professionals to do it was the best thing we have ever done. I wish I had known about them sooner. It would have saved us a heap of time, money, not to mention a number of original surfaces that sadly we demolished because we couldn’t strip them.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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be aware that particle masks will not help with fumes. be aware that any of us who might have methylene chloride around or might use modern replacements, these things make not just odor but fumes. odor is one thing, fumes are another.

Fumes are hard to deal with (i simply vent them with a fan and do not wear any sort of mask; be careful – a lot of these chemicals are flammable and passing fumes through a cheap electric fan can ignite them; there are special fans for flammable products).

Someone mentions a mask in a reply above. let me say this: there are two sorts of masks that we see around, commonly: an n95 dust mask and a partial face particle (dust) mask with filters. Less commonly is a full face GAS mask. Above all of these are self contained units with tanks of breathable air which we do not see around.

The N95 is a particle filter and the P100 or P95 or N100 partial face masks are particle masks. The N95 is the triangular white filter held on with a rubber band. the P100 or P95 or N100’s are the partial face dust masks with the two cartr idge filters on them. These are NOT gas masks. they are made to stop dust particles over a certain size from entering our lungs. they will NOT stop fumes. Fumes require masks with a different sort of filter cartridge on them and those filters probably have charcoal or something in them to either deactivate or stop the fumes. Not all gas masks work with all chemicals. I just checked now: the cdc states that an organic gas mask is acceptable with methylene for “escape” (temporary) purposes only, meaning no one is going to put one on and work in that sort of environment. the only mask approved for long term exposure to methylene is a fresh air system (like a SCBA pack).

I have two gas masks here. I have never had to use one nor would i rely on one in my work (if i have to put a gas mask on, it means i did something wrong). they are here in case i have to clean up after a spill or accidentally mix products that create a reaction (spilling hydrochloric or muriatic acid can create a reaction or mixing an alkaline product with an acid when cleaning something can cause a reaction and it becomes impossible to breath; pouring acids on metals to clean them causes reactions; been there, done that).

Note that NONE of the filters on any of these masks lasts forever and some are harmed by oily mists (say if you use an N100; N means NOT oil resistant. P means oil “proof”). So if you want to sand your work and have used an N100 mask to spray oil based paint the week prior, you have damaged the filter. With a P95 or P100, that “P” means oil proof. 95 or 100 means it catches 95 or 100% of the particles over a certain size and over a certain period of time (i think an 8 hour shift, not sure).

there is a limited amount of time that ALL of these masks can be worn before the filter cartridges must be changed.

anyone working in a shop using bad stuff should know that they make escape respirators that can be worn on one’s belt (they are compact and good for two minutes). for two years in the early 1990’s i wrote training manuals in the paper industry and we had to wear this kind of respirator on our belts when we went in the chlorine plant (they use chlorine for bleaching wood pulp). these escape respirators are cheap and they sell them on Amazon. i keep a couple around here just in case.

the training on the particle masks was part of my NYS DEC WDO (wood destroying organism) training this past winter, so it is sort of fresh in my mind.

check behind everything i said above but i think i got the gist of it correct.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Well just to chime in on masks and the cobra stripper…

I use a 3M half face respirator with p100 cartridge filters while peeling paint.

I workin two hour shifts though an 8-9 hour day….

The 3M unit costs about $30 and comes with a set of cartridge filters (the pink ones) which run about $10 pair.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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850, What are you trying to block with the 3m half face respirator?

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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3M™ Combination Cartridges

Use with 3M™ 6000 Series Combination Cartridges to help filter particulates in addition to certain gases and vapors.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Just took a look at the SPECIFIC cartridge… it’s the 3M 60923

Good description here, where I buy ‘em:

https://industrialsafety.com/3m-60923-cartridge-filter-organic-vapor-acid-gas-pack-of-2-each.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8anBhCFARIsAKbbpyQ9gQBeTcB-vwQU-A8pmrVpoYpmWkdnbIYtw8YrMFKKts4i_8myVB8aAuRUEALw_wcB

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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i think i have some here but never knew they were good for acid gasses.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Who knows what they put in that old paint and varnish….??..!!

Better safe than sorry as the cobra stripper basically burns the paint off.

I did 13 interior doors last winter, and have 4 to go.

I was also lucky that the guy doing a full gut reno down the block from me gave me four 28 inchers a couple of weeks ago…. that will free up a door to cut out Dutchman blanks with the same matching period oak.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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I saw you mentioned dutchman earlier in the post and again above.. It will help if you have a multi tool with a saw blade to cut with and a miter and table saw.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Let’s start a new thread on Dutchmen……

Or better yet, “Salvaging 100 Year Old Doors.”

Maybe others would be interested, and chime in with tips…??

I’’m anxious for your input as I have not started yet… I’ve just gathered the tools.

Bosch “Colt” palm router, Bosch Palm orbital sander, digital caliper, and .25 & .50” chisels.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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One other very important bit to close out the information on the COBRA stripper:

Remove all glass from any stripping project before applying the cobra heat tool.

Common sense to any one but me.

I learned the hard way and destroyed some beautiful 100 year old dimpled glass which cracked at the edges where the intense heat was applied to the painted wood….ugh.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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[715513290](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:mPg8:715513290.878148public.jpeg.jpg)

xuytbjicwnofjdde | 1 year and 8 months ago

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I’ve been following this thread, as I have a dream to strip and restore our doors and window / door moldings in our 1845 Greek Revival. My hesitation to even try is that I’ve been told that these mid-1800s houses used soft pine, so they don’t hold up well to the stripping process and become ruined, unlike the later 1800s / early 1900s houses that used hardwood and can be nicely stripped & restored. Is this true? Are there specific methods to successfully strip & restore the soft pine?

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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The doors are one thing, the fluted column moldings are another.

Unless you are gluten for punishment or a cheapskate (like me) it’s probably best to farm this out to the pros… or better yet just buy doors and trim NEW and try to install yourself.

I think what most people learn when trying to RESTORE a 100 year old house is that NOTHING is plumb or level… it’s simply easier AND LESS EXPENSIVE to rip it all out and start from scratch…. Reinstalling all that beautiful 100 year old trim.

Don’t even get me into trying to match turn of the century moldings. Everything today is slightly smaller and will not match existing trim…. Even the stuff over at Dykes with such a vast selection will not match perfectly in the end… so you are forced to beg neighbors doing renovations for bits and pieces.

Truth is, even the most decorative door, window trim or ceiling moldings can be done cheaper and look better buy buying brand new materials.

These are TWO different SKILLS….. 1) RESTORING 2) RECREATING.

I would estimate I have 200 hours in for stripping 13 doors. I know it sounds cr azy, but there is a huge learning curve starting out with the fact you do everything conservatively at first as not to damage the doors and you try all sorts of techniques, tools and materials.

I know I worked on my first door for two weeks, 8 hour days. But it was a skill I wanted to (L)EARN… just as the Dutchman process, which i will tackle this fall.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Ok. The hardwoods did not come into use until the rise of the brownstone well after the civil war so yes, pre 1870 house is likely pine. Some of the older pine is old growth pine and it will finish up nicer than newer pine. Finishing some of the cheaper pines is the issue but there are ways around that. In short, pine is and was made to be painted and when it was used in houses in centuries past, it was a display of wealth to have painted wood in the house.

In so far as someone having issues actually stripping the pine and damaging it: that is due to a lack of training and experience. Yes, the chemical wets the pine and makes a soft wood softer but the real issue is people use sharp tools the wrong way and the really dig in and gouge the wood. Sharp pointed wax carving tools will hit a dry and hard piece of paint and glance off it and then make an errant gouge a couple of inces long. Disaster to sand out. When i do this, i use a round wax carving tool which is less likely to slip and gouge. When i have most (almost all) of the paint off and must dig int o the real crevices or am working egg and dart, i switch to a sharp point.

So umanish, you may have seen that i have several people interested in having me do a stripping class. You would be welcome here. But more than that, if people call me for home inspections i can spend time talking about these sorts of projects and advising people when to hire pros or when and how to do diy. Also, someone like yourself who has alreay had me do a home inspection, if you ever wanted to come by here and watch me when i am working on a project, i don’t mind (as a favor). I do not have any stripping projects in house at the moment but you know how to reach me outside of here.

Steve
Brownstone Home Inspection LLC