Oiled wood floor owners! Do you love or regret your floor finish?

Hi oiled wood floor owners!

I’m agonising over that perennial question : to go with oil or a poly finish on a new white oak floor.

I’ve read the many threads here on Brownstoner and I just can’t make up my mind.

I’m interested to know if you’ve actually lived with an oiled floor – perhaps for a few years:

– Do you still love your choice or do you regret it and wish you’d gone with poly?
– Has the maintenance been manageable or a burden?
– Has the stain resistance been acceptable?
– Have you made spot repairs (such as oil promises) and have they blended in?

Many thanks. Gosh choosing floors is tough !!!!!

Jason

Guest User | 6 years and 9 months ago

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RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years and 8 months ago

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It’s not pockmarks and dents–it’s patina! Don’t hesitate to apply Rejuvenate. The stuff works and is SO easy to apply.

cate | 6 years and 8 months ago

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We have delicate pine subfloors that dent if you so much as look at them. We did four coats of water based poly in a satin finish nine years ago and we love it. It is so durable. The refinisher used a high quality brand name. We allowed plenty of time to dry between coats. You couldn’t even see there was anything on the floor until the fourth coat (don’t panic and change finishes, it is there). In the last five years our child has just about destroyed the floor dropping things on it (or worse) but, incredibly, the finish has held up — even though the floor is now pockmarked and dented. There are one or two spots where the finish is gone but actually what happened is a tiny piece of the wood was torn away — not the finish. One of these days I’ll fix those spots with Rejuvenate.

Smokychimp | 6 years and 8 months ago

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I’m in full agreement with Kondor. Poly is a predictable and hard wearing surface. But an oil coating is much more abstractly beautiful, but needs re-oiling in the kitchen and entry every once in a while. We use poly on spec projects or mid-range, and high end projects we use wax or oil as Kondor suggest.

littlenylion | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Thanks for responding Kondor. The feedback seems consistent from everyone. 🙂

littlenylion | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Thanks for responding Kondor. The feedback seems consistent from everyone. 🙂

atirah | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Oil and Poly will produce a different look and have different maintenance cycles / wear characteristics.

For our house my wife and I went with a hard-wax oil on the ~150 year-old wide plank heart pine in our parlor / kitchen. The hardwax oil (specifically rubio monocoat) saturates the wood and produces a beautifully warm effect, while keeping the wood natural feeling and emphasizes the character of the wood. The downside is wear in higher traffic areas, but spot repairs are fairly simple. Cleaning is with a broom, windex for spot spills.

On our other floors, we have white oak which we finished with poly. It looks fine, not as pretty as the oil, but it’s tough as nails. Scratches are rarer, but they are much more visible due to the smoothness of the finish / wood. Cleaning is with a broom and a wet swiffer.

Guest User | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Excellent thank you. All my best trades have been recommended through this forum. Glad to add another to the list.

allans | 6 years and 9 months ago

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I did two coats and it’s held up fine – mind you I have twin boys who just turned 10. If you think you need three coats Carlos will most certainly abide. Also rest assured Carlos will disclose the product name he uses which other wood floor companies do not b/c they tend to use a cheap polyurethane. He’s the real deal when it comes to Brownstone wood floors. Good luck.

Guest User | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Hey allans – thanks for that. That’s reassuring since Carlos is the guy I have just approached. He seemed very helpful.

Can I ask did you do the TWO coats of water poly that Carlos recommended? How is your floor holding up?

Thank you for responding.

allans | 6 years and 9 months ago

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I also agree on coconut with the test. I found a brownstone wood floor expert who were gracious enough to conduct the test patch for me. Upon decision (which was Poly) they did the job. No one else that I called would do this so I definitely recommend Carlos Wood Floors (www.carloswoodfloors.com) if you do not want to try this on your own.

Guest User | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Thank you coconut. We’ve owned our Brownstone for over a year but I have a strong sense that these are life-long projects!!! Never quite finished ;-(

coconut | 6 years and 9 months ago

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I only have wood floor in my bedroom prefinished. It did not pass my test in the living room or hallway because of my dog and dirt tracked in left my sample yucky. Also not to add confusion but look into varathane. It starts off milky white and self levels so the finish is magnificent and clear. Also dries quicker. If you have any other question I would be happy to offer my advise. I purchased a brownstone 13 years ago and it is a work in progress. Slow but a major impact.

Guest User | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Hi Coconut this is great advice thank you. I’m gonna do what you suggest to break the impasse in my decision making. Thanks 😉

coconut | 6 years and 9 months ago

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I own a brownstone and have made many mistakes so my suggestion if you are torn is to get two pieces of wood that are the same as your floor and do one in oil and one in poly. Next put it down and the heaviest traffic area and go to town on it. Then make your decision. I was curious if hardi backers were better than sheet rock or cement boards to I asked for a piece of scrap and left it in my backyard for one year before I checked it. Looks like the very first day. So far it has been in the rain and snow for over 10 years and still looking good just some green algae. I wish I would have done this in the past but that is how we learn. Before I put tiles on my wall I take four of them and xerox them and tape it to my wall or my floor. 9 times out of 10 it was just too much. I would rather spend $20 in paper than hundreds on a project that just does not work.

Guest User | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Thanks for responding jrkeat. I’m pretty handy so can experiment as you suggested. Appreciate it.

jrkeat | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Sorry, I accidentally hit REPLY. Anyway, you’ll have to experiment a bit. With a lot of work (trying multiple stains, etc.) I’ve been able to replace individual parquet boards. The finish is indistinguishabe, but I was never able to find a perfect grain match for the old boards.

jrkeat | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Finished on site. Prefinished engineered wood floors typically have a very hard finish that I don’t know how to replicate. My current floors are Bona Woodline. Minor scratches that don’t go completely through are easy to get a good repair. You can use a rag super aggressively to clear out paint embedded in scratches. You might or maybe Liberion 0000 steel wool. The

Guest User | 6 years and 9 months ago

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Thank you everyone for responding. My first interest in oil is that I like the flat matte look. It’s true that I can get close to this with poly. My second interest in oil is the ability to do these spot repairs. I am very interested in what jrkeat has said about repairing poly. I am going to investigate this.

Jrkeat – was the poly floor that you spot repaired pre-finished or was it finished on site?

Thank you.

jrkeat | 6 years and 9 months ago

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I just wanted to say, since two people have said the opposite, that I’ve successfully repaired oil based poly (common in Brooklyn) a number of times. I use the same poly that originally went on the floor an thin it at least 1:1 with odorless mineral spirits–it’s easy to fix, say, a furniture scratch. With older floors, you can match the worn texture by wiping it with a rag before it’s fully dry.