Lead poisoning

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Guest User | 9 years and 9 months ago

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I sanded some window and door facings along with the inside of 3 cabnits. Did not realize that there may have been lead in the paint. House in nearly 100 years old. Don’t need anyone telling me how wrong I was to do this. I know that now and what is done is done. No children or pregnant women were around. Also, how do I clean the dust and prepare to repaint. Remodeling entire house before moving in. Now that I know about lead paint, I am a little concerned. Want to remove all dust safely and make sure no one else is exposed. By the way, I am female, don’t know if that matters.

BSDOD | 9 years and 9 months ago

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I’m no expert but do some searches on how best to clean up. Keep yourself covered, where a good mask, mop and wash the walls a few times.

jodie1028 | 9 years and 9 months ago

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Call Luke at Brooklyn Lead. We had a very difficult lead problem and he walked us through a full plan, including testing, remediation (hired) and how to properly clean the lead ourselves. Too much to write here but he will get you the info you need.

Augustiner | 9 years and 9 months ago

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My guess is that most lead paint is not removed according to the rule book, even on ‘official’ construction sites.
That’s why the stuff is everywhere in the city.

You don’t need a specialist for the cleanup. I’d just take a wet towel and wipe it off. If there is no more dust then you’re good.

daveinbedstuy | 9 years and 9 months ago

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Wipe up any dust with a wet towel (it’s really only a hazard when it’s airborne) and paint over all the wood with a good quality primer and acrylic paint.

rh | 9 years and 9 months ago

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Ditto to Augustiner and Dave, but wear a mask while cleaning and shower and wash clothes immediately after. Rent a HEPA vac if it’s too much for a wet rag. Not that I ever do…I just use a shop vac. Might explain why some brain cells are missing.

SoSlope | 9 years and 9 months ago

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The comments from Augustiner and Dave are good. Buy a good respirator rated for lead at Home Depot (better than the paper masks, more comfortable, not that expensive and you will use it many more times). You can buy a hepa filter for your shop vac (expensive, but worth it). Use wet paper towels and wash your clothes. If there is a lot of dust, you could consider wetting it down with a spray bottle so that you don’t stir it up when you walk into the room. Oh, and buy a roll of the industrial blue paper towels at Home Depot or lowes; they are a lot better for this kind of cleanup.

Don’t feel badly about dry sanding in the first place. We have all made lots of mistakes in the course of working on our houses.

brownstonerre | 9 years and 9 months ago

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Not to cause panic, but breathing in lead is bad… mmkay?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM1u29BeqC0

brownstonerre | 9 years and 9 months ago

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Not to cause panic, but breathing in lead is bad… mmkay?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM1u29BeqC0

jodie1028 | 9 years and 9 months ago

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Having been through this, I respectfully disagree that it can be handled by wiping it up with a wet towel. First you need to know what you are dealing with, which means having samples taken and sent to a lab. That will tell you how many ppm you have at each sample site. Legal limit is 40 (for reference). After dry sanding our stairs we found we had 30,000 ppm in our worst site. A situation like that requires a different course of action than if you find 100 ppm. Cleaning can remedy most or all of the problem, but it’s very specific and not something that the average person is capable of handling if you have very high numbers. Here is the good news – you can only be poisoned by airborne lead, or by ingesting it, so the best thing is to wash hands before eating. Also good news – remediation cost us in the 2-3k range for a difficult problem. I would recommend getting the euroclean vacuum, which is amazing. Good luck.

brooklynbasics | 9 years and 9 months ago

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jrkeat | 9 years and 9 months ago

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Is you have a HEPA vacuum with disposable bags, use it first, and throw out the bag and filter. If you don’t that’s fine, but ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE A NON-HEPA VACUUM. This will throw the lead dust into the air.

Then use a cleaner like TSP or Ledizolv. Either of these will bind to the exposed lead in the paint more strongly than anything in your body. TSP very inexpensive and is a wonderfully strong cleaner and degreaser, sometime too strong. Ledizolv will just bind with the lead. Clean the key areas twice and rinse with water. Throw out your cleaning materials.

Either wear gloves or wash thoroughly afterward. Lead is absorbed through the lungs and digestive tract, not the skin.

You can use Lead Check Swabs (now owned by 3M) to test for lead in paint–they have a chemical that turns red when it contacts lead, and is fairly sensitive. Generally, lead paint will have been painted with non-lead paint, and sometimes you’ll have lead paint sandwiched between layers of non-lead paint or plaster. When that happens, you’ll see only a strip of red on the edges of the chip.

dissertationhelp | 9 years and 9 months ago

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Easy, Lead can now be safely sealed and or treated. Either prior to removal, or sealed and treated over existing applications. ECOBOND®LBP, LEAD DEFENDER® is used as a leave on specialty paint application to seal and treat lead in addition for removal practices both treating and sealing prior to disposal. Used on numerous projects nationwide, ECOBOND®LBP, LEAD DEFENDER® using EPA test methods not only treats and seals lead but is responsible for reducing the bio-availability, leaching, and suppressing the harmful lead dust particulates during RRP by up to 99% (EPA method 1311). In addition, due to the ECOBOND®LBP, LEAD DEFENDER® patented natural phosphate reagent reduces the bio-availability by up to 75% (EPA 9200.1-86 non-fasting pH 2.2). This not only assists in Lead Safe Practice Rules, but RCRA and Air Quality Sample Compliance readings as well, thus potentially saving thousands in hazardous disposal fees.