Silicone layer on brick facade?

hahah it was a dumb joke anyway

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in Exteriors 1 year and 10 months ago

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bklyn658 | 1 year and 11 months ago

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My insurance company is requiring that I repair my brick facade’s peeling paint (or as I like to call it, shabby chic). I’ve learned from this forum that bricks need to breathe, and so as much as it pains me to strip the paint and become a normie brick rowhouse, as a custodian of the home I must do what is right by it.

Here is where I have quandary: does a clear silicone layer on brick also prevent breathing or does it protect the brick? My old-timer neighbor, whose advice I appreciate, has said that silicone is necessary for protection. However, that contradicts the whole “breathing” thing. And none of the contractors who have given quotes have suggested silicone (Milad, Malek, Excel). Can anyone advise?

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 11 months ago

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Do your own research.

The biggest fear for mortar might not be silicone which i am guessing would not close every nook and cranny, but paint which seals everything. The problem with the paint is, it can trap water that comes in from above and will freeze in the winter and as it does it will expand and damage the bricks. It does not sound like silicone will seal every joint but just perhaps the bricks themselves.

I brought the idea of sealing exterior stone up with a somewhat older and traditional mason a couple of years back and he shot it down. I was not talking about a product that sits on the surface but something that soaks in and according to the manufacturer – a european concern- still allows the stone to breath. The product was not cheap and as such i would expect that the manufacturer had done their research and studies and would not make false claims.

I cannot tell you anything anymore than that but to say be leary of things small contractors say and check behind them. Also, talk to the sales people at glenwood supply in brooklyn or extech in lic and see what they say, get names of product, read and call the manufacturers and put questions to them.

Steve

annep | 1 year and 11 months ago

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Limeworks is a great resource and has always been happy to answer questions I’ve had: https://www.limeworks.us/

Guest User | 1 year and 11 months ago

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i had a client in manhattan spend north of $100,000 getting the bricks repointed and beams exposed and resealed… didnt work… they paid $5000 for a silicone coat , stopped leakage for 5 years…

Guest User | 1 year and 11 months ago

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their facade was low grade industrial brick that acted like a sponge

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 11 months ago

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there are different grades of brick. the smoother bricks are used on the facades of homes and have a hard, smooth face on them. bricks are used on other sorts of buildings and in internal walls, have a soft face on them (common bricks). if people sand or sand blast the better grade bricks they will take the hard face off of them and leave them rough and porous like the common bricks. when we see brick exposed on the walls of brownstones, where the plaster was removed, those are common bricks.

Augustiner | 1 year and 10 months ago

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Just use Benjamin Moore exterior paint. Used to be called BEN, now Element Guard I believe. Make sure to clean and repoint loose parts and mortar or if you want to save money use Plaster Weld to create a stable surface.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 10 months ago

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Plaster weld is not made to be surface applied to walls. It is poured into plaster as it is mixed to strengthen it. It is pink in color so i am not sure how that would go over on the exterior. Crete weld is blue, but again it is mixed in not applied.

Do not ever apply paint or something that sits on the surface of exterior brick without exploring these products and who manufactures them.

Begin this by talking to specialty suppliers (not home depot) like glenwood supply or extech supply in long island city.

I am available for consultation issues around houses and i will research what i do not know and will contact suppliers and manufacturers to ask the pertinent questions about their products.

Steve
Brownstone Home Inspection

cate | 1 year and 10 months ago

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My advice: First, hire expert paint strippers who specialize in paint stripping to remove the paint from the exterior (if you aren’t up for doing this yourself, which most of us are not). If the paint is on three levels, you may need scaffolding, which can be pricey. Be SURE to cover the windows and the screens so you don’t have to replace all the screens. Expert strippers will take care not to track lead paint residue all over the ground and inside your house. They should do one facade at a time so you can open the windows on the other side of the house, so you don’t get poisoned by the paint stripper fumes. Sometimes masons have a lot of experience stripping brick and know what they are doing, and they know to take care not to get the lead paint all over adjacent surfaces. They will typically repaint the ground-level ironwork for an additional fee, and in my experience are better than the ironworkers at this. Second, if the brick is in good condition and does not need to be sealed, it’s probably best not to use a silicone sealer. But if it does need to be sealed, a “br eathable” silicone sealer has so far seemed to have worked for us. (Also, some very old very low-grade brick in the rear was meant to be sealed with limewash.) You might consult with some historic masonry restoration companies and the Department of Interior historic preservation guidelines. They typically say do not use anything on the brick and even “breathable” coatings are not actually breathable.

Augustiner | 1 year and 10 months ago

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Homeinspector: while Plaster-Weld (the pink glue stuff) is not an ideal or pro- choice in this scenario but I have to point out that it is a product meant for surface preparation, not for mixing into another product.
It’s fantastic and easily available product for spot repair and and preparing crumbling interior walls or crown molding for plaster or paint application.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 10 months ago

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Are you aware that op is talking about exterior?

That stuff reminds me of dish soap. Can it handle elements?

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 10 months ago

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the op will need the crete weld (exterior). the blue stuff.

we used to pour the plaster weld into the plaster. not a lot. it was something taught to me by someone in Europe who claimed to be shown that in a trade school he went to. this was decades ago.

these plaster weld and crete weld things dry like a plastic film. they look impervious to water when they are dry and putting things like that on buildings can be a problem because if water gets in from above it can flow down and become trapped and freeze in the winter and ….. BUT, research these products and see what they say about how they perform under different conditions. in fact, i would call a product technical support person for these products and put this to them “some guy told me that i should not put anything that sits on the surface or is applied like a paint to a brick wall because it might trap moisture inside and it might freeze” and see what they say. some of these products might be made to keep moisture out and allow the wall to breath.

if i had time i would be making those calls to tho se companies as i have a facade project coming up where i am going to have to know the good, the bad, and the ugly about these things.

Lurker | 1 year and 10 months ago

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Hey Bob next time you are doing work at your house let me know and I’ll send over an old book case I have that your crew can refinish . I appreciate it! 🙂

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 10 months ago

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Lurker, you put this under the wrong post. i am going to contact bob who is a volunteer editor on the forum and ask him if he can move your reply to its proper place.

RobertGMarvin

in Exteriors 1 year and 10 months ago

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Sorry Steve, but my mighty powers as volunteer only let me remove posts. : 🙂

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