Contact info for Architect David Johnson

Shouldn’t take much to install it. Not sure what the relevance is between the window and the brick building… I would do it. Call me at 347-276-6528 Levi SoHoAppliances

levicapland

in Architecture 13 years and 11 months ago

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brucef | 12 years and 3 months ago

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FYI, standard best practices in professional HVAC includes condensate pans underneath air handlers, as a back up if the intended condensate pumps fail, malfunction, or are overwhelmed. These pans have their own drains and are equipped with Bulldog type ballcock shutoffs (think like a toilet). Perhaps we see too many clogged condensate lines so we are overly sensitive to what happens when there is overflow. Nevertheless i am uncomfortable with active pumped drains. Here in the country we have moths that like to spin webs up in the drip tubes etc. Iit’s basically like the “Tennessee Two Bagger”. You wear one yourself in case hers falls off.

presidentst | 12 years and 3 months ago

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brucef, yeah each air handler has its own condenser on the roof.  Don’t know about the condensate, sorry.  Don’t see drip pans under the air handlers.

boredatwork | 12 years and 3 months ago

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We did a standard system when we installed central air in our owners triplex w/in a 4 story brownstone. Compressor and air handler on the roof provide air to the top floor.  Air handler in the cellar provides air to the parlor and 2nd floor.  We did not air condition the garden apartment.  Our architect was adamant about no sofffits, dropped ceilings, etc., but our ability to successfully do so might have been a function of space available in the wall for the ducts.  While I would recommend our architects, Baxt and Ingui, I would not recommend the AC contractor.  Nevertheless, the system works great.

adam_dahill | 12 years and 3 months ago

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I’m working on logictics for the same scenario. I’m leaning to 4 zoned Mitsubishi ducted mini-splits hidden in the core of the building. They have models that have two separate ducts, One to push air to the front rooms and one to the rear rooms. The suspended versions hidden in the ceilings of the baths and closets. Some will require only a small run of ductwork so soffits would not be visible. The actual equipment doesn’t seem too outrageous in price, but the install and steel work on the roof is probably where the costs will kick in. I have ALL HVAC coming out on Sat for a quote and to discuss logistics. Does anymore recomend another installer that is sensitive to historic details as well as budget?

brucef | 12 years and 3 months ago

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presidentst, Just curious. Does each air handler have its own condenser? Or do some run off one condenser a la multi ductless? How did they handle the condensate from the evaporators, did they run hoses down by gravity, or do you rely on pumps? Are there drip pans under the air handlers with separate drains? I am in the process of designing a system, and “inquiring minds want to know”

presidentst | 12 years and 3 months ago

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 installed central A/C with no soffits.  Basically, each floor has it’s own air handler above the ceiling in one of the small rooms located in the “core” of the floor.  This is the walk in closet on the top floor, the laundry room in the second, and the powder room on the parlor.  We even did an air handler for the garden rental unit located in the cellar.  The ducts run in the ceiling and across the house and terminate high on the walls at the front and back where the bedrooms are.   Definitely push back if they tell you they need soffits.  There always seemed to be a way to avoid it.

BenGazi | 12 years and 3 months ago

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unico/spacepak will run you 15-20 k for 2 flors

eman134 | 12 years and 3 months ago

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use a high velocity system such as unico or spacepak..the runs are 2″ in diameter, ideally suited for brownstones

snowman2 | 12 years and 3 months ago

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I kept looking until I found an ac guy who installed ducts between the joists and back of  closets with wide shallow ducts.  I installed in the 2 upper floors of a 3 storey so the unit is on the roof and the ducts didn’t have far to go.  If I occupied the first floor it could have gotten there.  It was much more expensive to install than regular ducts but I only needed a plasterer for a few hours to clean up the cracks around the registers so didn’t have to build soffits.  The functionality is also slightly compromised since the placement was dictated by the available route and not slapping soffits every where.  To me those were acceptable trade-offs.  While I would _not _recommend the ac guy I used, I not recommend the method.  I did it about 12 years ago – no regrets.  I did it mid-December which reduced the cost.

Rugby_Road_Brooklyn | 12 years and 3 months ago

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In Ditmas Park where I have been since 1994, I have only heard of two sewer or water line replacements in the area—that’s in 18 years.
One was due to the whole house burning down (sewer was clogged with ash and debris),
the second was when a neighbor swapped-out the existing lead pipes for pvc.

This insurance offer from AWR is totally optional. Your sewer line may crack and break in a 50-year period, it may not.

I’m surprised to hear of the necessity for so many new sewer lines (bklynjim, CARROL GARDENS), unless there was new construction, street repairs?

thomasjacob | 12 years and 3 months ago

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Hi, you can go for fabric pleated shades. These are ideal for tilt and turn windows as well as doors. We got it installed from TBS gallery. Here is a picture, if you like it, you can ask them for some suggestions about the installation. Good luck!!

http://cdn.brownstoner.com/51136d4c23c37-processed-pleated_blinds-pg12.jpg

bklynjim | 12 years and 3 months ago

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I just signed up for this.  Several of my neighbors have paid 15K – 20K for new sewer lines.  $12 a month for insurance is a bargain.

Arkady | 12 years and 3 months ago

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From what I’ve seen done elsewhere, a lot of the work is not on foundation nor slab – it’s usually in the front area or pavement.  You or a third party are also not likely to cause the damage unless a tree’s roots are considered a 3rd party.

boni28 | 12 years and 3 months ago

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It is so necessary that if you do not do those it might damage or leak your heater after a time. Soooo, You have to do that or be ready to count service charge any time.

daveinbedstuy | 12 years and 3 months ago

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yes to all of those. If you do that it will prolong the life of the heater, but no one ever does, including myself.

kriscontractor | 12 years and 3 months ago

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please call Chris Lamczak (929) 421 0147

needmtg | 12 years and 3 months ago

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Guess I don’t understand exclusions. The following 2 seem like they make the policy useless? [NOT covered] Repairing anything caused by You or any third parties LOL. Doesn’t this pretty much negate any coverage? [NOT covered] Excavating Your Home’s Foundation or slab in order to access any section of Your Water Line. And since this would seem pretty mandatory to change/repair the lines, wouldn’t you always wind up paying?

Augustiner | 12 years and 3 months ago

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Hey Rustydevon,
does your structural Engineer´s name start with M…. and end with …N by any chance?
I had the same situation – GC was laughing his ass off at the plans. Said it would be 60k at least just to put all the steel beams in the building. Another 2 architects confirmed that the structural reinforcements are totally unneccessary.

I then hired a different structural engineer who was much more experienced and drew in only what was necessary. More by mail if you´re interested bv1515@zoho.com

getroofingquotes | 12 years and 3 months ago

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Except creating the ceilings, you wish to include the areas of floor that are currently drooping, and other suspect areas. Are you putting a tub, or new partitions, in locations that didn’t have these loads previously, you ought to probably sister some/all beams in those areas, as an ONE HUNDRED + year aged piece of lumber plus a new load = potential problems.