A San Francisco-based Italian wine bar that specializes in pinsa, a flatbread with pizza toppings made from a mix of rice, soy and wheat flours, debuted last week in the old DuMont space at 432 Union Avenue in Williamsburg. Shuttered since 2014 following the suicide of founder Colin Devlin in 2013, DuMont was an understated and then out-of-the-way gathering spot that helped define the Brooklyn scene of the early 2000s.

A quick peek inside Montesacro revealed a modern, updated interior. The ceilings are still tin, while the distinctive 19th century cement-tile floors (which Devlin replicated at sister restaurant Dressler) are now hardwood. Perhaps they’ve just been covered over.

Starters include asparagus with fava beans and mint and tripe prepared Roman style with pancetta and grilled bread. There are also entrees of roasted whole fish, pork chop and lamb shoulder, in addition to pastas, cheeses and cold cuts. Desserts include a chocolate and wild cherry tart and a pinsa with pistachio cream, and the wines are natural.

Montesacro owner, Gianluca Legrottaglie, previously worked at nearby Williamsburg favorite Aurora, and their chef and general manager helped develop the menu and wine list, according to Eater. For now they are open only for dinner. The name is inspired by a neighborhood in Rome and its wine taverns.

The shuttered space in 2014. Photo by Cate Corcoran

There are no lack of Italian restaurants in Williamsburg — Aurora, Motorino, Baci & Abbracci, Bamonte’s and many others come to mind — but none right on this stretch.

Think it will do well here?

[Photos by Steve Sherman unless noted otherwise]

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