Latest Reno Disaster

We had our floors leveled. One was in the basement and it turned out great.’The first floor has issues.!We had a new subfloor put in which came out well, but there is an area where it meets the threshold of the stairs going down to the cellar. The subfloor iwound up about two inches higher than the old cellar door threshold used to be, creating a consequently bigger drop down to the first tread of the staircase.
It doesn’t seem to bother my DH but it is noticeable to me as I am shorter.! It also seems to me that won’t please the inspector as it might be considered a falling hazard.
The staircase is original to the house and very simple: a heavy ladder, almost, with thick treads, no risers, and a board backing . It is enclosed by a stone foundation wall covered in Sheetrock on one side, and a ship lap wall on the other.
The suggestions so far are to increase the thickness of the uppermost treads, removing all the treads and attaching new stringers on bo th sides to the old ones, and replacing the entire staircase. If not then perhaps make some adjustments to the subfloor.
Has anyone encountered this issue? What would work?

markwalker

in Renovation 3 years and 10 months ago

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slivmknykuasmyu | 3 years and 9 months ago

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Try fixing pads of wood or rubber on the steps. This way you will visually update the design, soften the steps and reduce the difference in height of the steps.

markwalker | 3 years and 9 months ago

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I read recently the risers cannot be more than 8 inches apart. So many different answers.

hkapstein | 3 years and 9 months ago

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Ok so one possibility which may or may not be practical here would be to create a square landing at the top or bottom of the steps. If you create a landing, generally there is a minimum height of a step, I think it’s four inches, or the “step down” could itself be a tripping hazard. Honestly if you’re willing to redo the steps, which probably would not be that expensive, you might just wait until you close your inspections and then do it. Any plans filed for the house are unlikely to show the stair detail to that extent anyway.

markwalker | 3 years and 9 months ago

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That is helpful, Urbandad. Thanks.

hkapstein | 3 years and 9 months ago

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All risers should be within a range of 3/8th inch from the largest to the smallest rise.

markwalker | 3 years and 9 months ago

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Arewedoneyet, what was your solution?

We do have a backer board of Sheetrock fitted under our staircase. It’s a fire safety requirement.

arewedoneyet | 3 years and 9 months ago

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I failed a final inspection because I didn’t have stair risers on our cellar stairs. I’m pretty sure you’ll need a railing too if you don’t have one.

markwalker | 3 years and 9 months ago

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I do hope Odie finds someone experienced to properly assess his situation. II’d like to know if anyone has encountered my issue.
As someone mentioned it his issue can happen in other buildings.
I am very reluctant to replace the cellar stairs. They are anchored to the original cellar concrete floor. That floor now bears an additional coating of concrete and some porcelain tile. It’s lowest step is a little shorter in height now than it was originally , naturally, but not so much.
How about taking the new subfloor off there and applying the finish floor directly to the joists? This would create a step down in a small area 3 by 4 feet or so, enough to easily open the door to the staircase.

Cole | 3 years and 10 months ago

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Oh, and the garden level seems fine, but the floors definitely slope more with each floor going up.

Cole | 3 years and 10 months ago

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Thanks. To be honest, “weeks” doesn’t seem too bad to us. We haven’t moved in yet, which will make it easier. I just hope we can get it done without too much disruption to neighbors, and without finding any major issues.

markwalker | 3 years and 10 months ago

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Oh don’t let anyone use OSB board for your sub floor. It’s garbage. Plywood.

markwalker | 3 years and 10 months ago

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Cole, leveling seems to come in several flavors: Sone floors have a concave area on account of the joists becoming cupped or bowed, something that occurs with age. The fix is to remove the subfloor to expose the joists and screw wood on either side of each joist. They use a laser to find the high point of your floor and bring the rest of floor level up to the high point.

Our place (a row house with shared party walls ) turned out to be 4 inches lower in the back than the front due to “settling” The staircase in question was halfway between front and back of the building. That downward slope was in addition to some cupped joists.

Another reason you might need a floor leveled is damage to the structure — a weakening of the attachment of the joists to a wall, termites, water, etc. Thus will mean you need the subfloor and the ceiling below removed in the damage areas and the joists sistered, I.e. wood added to both sides of each damaged joist and addressing any issues with securing it to the walls at the end.

A price would depend on the extent of work and mate rials. But you are probably talking in the tens of thousands here per story. The work takes a week or so as the sub floor is removed section by section. Areas containing doors stairs and walls should be looked at carefully to avoid issues. Old wood under those structures has to stay. Your new sub floor and finish floor may necessitate removing all the ok’d trim. and scuttling down a door or adding a thicker saddle.

If you are talking about a concrete cellar floor and the new floor is higher than the old by more than a few inches you can end up with similar issues plus a possible low ceiling on one end, or under the king beam., any ducts, soffits etc. You would have to have a step down somewhere, to create two levels, or else you would need to dig up the whole thing to lower it all, quite a big job.

Cole | 3 years and 10 months ago

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Whoa, we just purchased a house that needs floor leveling. Can you give me an estimate of what you’re paying per floor and if you’re happy with the people you used (obviously you have an issue with stairs). Thanks!

Arkady | 3 years and 10 months ago

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This happened to someone I know when his floors were leveled & they had a similar discrepancy. Their solution was building new stairs.

Guest User | 3 years and 10 months ago

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Depends on if it’s a reconstruction or net new. I wouldn’t let the GC do it. Get a stair person.

markwalker | 3 years and 10 months ago

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Thank you. But if the GC puts in a new staircase , won’t it have to be 3 feet wide (I.e, conform to current standards) it’s narrower than that and possibly steeper. There is no room for that.

andriywww1990 | 3 years and 10 months ago

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I used to build stair cases, mostly balustrades. when we did so we were always careful to follow the codes as i was always worried someone would get hurt and we would hear from a lawyer, even years later. and then i realized, you mentioned “inspectors”.

Stair treads are set within certain parameters and must be laid out uniform from top to bottom, no changes mid stream. if you could have avoided touching them you might have gotten away with what sounded like a non conforming staircase anyway, me thinks, but once you touch them the inspectors might spot it and disallow it and i would also be afraid the liability would be on you as well, if someone got hurt. i am always afraid of giving an insurance company an “out”.

it might be a good time to rip that old stair case out and have new stringers cut to a longer run and the increased height. a good old fashioned carpenter can do this on site. the rest of us order the stringers from a lumber yard.