Stripping/Sanding doors

I came across some old interior doors I would like to try to refinish(paint). I tested one for lead paint with a test kit and it was negative. I’ll probably send some chips to the lab to confirm, but I’ve found the tests to be pretty reliable, so assuming the doors are lead free, would it be better to sand or strip the wood? I tried some citristrip, but it’s really not getting the job done, and it will use a huge amount of citristrip to get the job done. I’m considering making a steam box and steaming them or sanding them off with a sander. Which do you think will be a better experience for a DIYer?

Thanks!

hkapstein

in General Discussion 4 years and 7 months ago

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andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago

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Radiators are hard to do no matter what. We used methylene chloride. If i had to again i would use lye and a pressure washer.

hkapstein | 4 years and 6 months ago

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I cannot imagine this working on a radiator. But with a radiator, you have other options given that the metal radiator can withstand high temps, chemicals and abrasive methods better than the wood.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago

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Steam will work like heat. Yes. We use jiffys here but find steam messy and time consuming. You have to box the steam in. See what urbandad said about buying a wagner wallpaler stripper; the flat difuser plate does the trick on flat surfaces.

slimc | 4 years and 6 months ago

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thoughts on whether a jiffy steamer would remove layers of paint from a radiator?

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 4 years and 6 months ago

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“ maybe bob marvin has heard of this and can comment”. Quite a compliment. Thank you Steve. I wanted to use canvas on some painted cracked panels of my kitchen doors. Instead we put up plastic faux tin ceiling panels which IMO go well with the vintage look we wanted but are absolutely not authentic and would upset purists [Image](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:ZkWx:image.jpg.jpg)

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago

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ok, check the panels on one door and see if they have any checking. sometimes moisture caused the panels to warp and crack. particularly in the days before bathroom fans and such. the panel bends toward the moist side and cracks on the moist side. if this happen, they would glue up “painter’s canvas” or wall paper. i am wondering if they did this with newspaper? it was not done to prime it no, it was done for another reason. i don’t have anyone to ask as they are all dead. maybe bob marvin has heard of this and can comment. it is something wierd that someone did in the moment and it probably worked and was cheap too.

sand this off to 120 and use oil. i am working on doors now and am sanding to 120. using zinser oil base and laying up a good coat and sanding it off with 180 and applying a first coat of paint which i will sand off with 220.

hkapstein | 4 years and 6 months ago

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So I had some time to come back to this today and I did the second door, mostly, still a little molding picking left. This one had a surprise for me. It seemed the door was “primed” with newspaper. Now initially I thought this might be a benefit, as I might be able to get under the newspaper with my scraper, but I quickly learned this was not the case. The newspaper flaked and melted apart gumming up and leaving bits behind. It was slightly slower than the door without this feature, but not much.

Now I could not read a date, or really any significant amount of text on the newspaper. However, I think it’s safe to say it was decades old, and maybe as much as 50+ years. So it would seem the building owner got his money’s worth out of this paint system.

So should prime the new paintwork with newspaper? No, that doesn’t seem very smart. I was starting to lean towards the oil primer as I was worried about the durability of the shellac on functioning door. But, could it be worse than a newspaper?

stevecym | 4 years and 6 months ago

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I have air here and could spray if i wanted to. Its pretty easy to brush though. And do it right.

That gun might be good. At that price you can bet its not gimmicky.

hkapstein | 4 years and 6 months ago

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@steve and others. If you’re going for a spray like finish, I’m curious why not just spray the doors. This handheld airless sprayer looks pretty cool, and I could probably use it for other projects.

https://www.amazon.com/Graco-17D889-TrueCoat-Handheld-Sprayer/dp/B00ZLIV55A

I should add that anyone reading this needs to be aware that you can seriously hurt or kill yourself with an airless sprayer, and although this is true of many power tools, the danger may not be obvious with a paint sprayer, so please don’t amazon this in if you don’t know what you’re doing. But that said it’s not hard to safely spray a door.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago

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maybe time to try the new rock miracle or old rock on the remaining bits. one of my guys used to soften that up with chemical and pour saw dust on it to collect it all.

with oil, you can get much closer to flat than with latex. the oil takes so long to dry that it spreads. i had a few brush marks in something this past summer and the customer pointed them out and had me do it over. using a really good brush helps. latex is trickier as it starts to dry before it has had a chance to level out.

when i have new employees, i point to a car on the street and tell them “that is our goal” (to have an automotive like finish). “we will not get there with a brush but we can try and if we get close, good”.

hkapstein | 4 years and 6 months ago

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So I’ve got it pretty good, but the last of the gunk I have to make a call whether to sand/scrape it off. It’s not much, and it tested negative for lead with the 3m lead check, but I’m still not excited about it. I think for the next one I’ll build a larger steam head out of insulation boards and try to get the paint really hot and take it off in bigger sheets, but more on that later.

So I get your method of really sanding it good and getting the paint to look as smooth as spray, and I’ll bet it does. I like the idea of thinning the paint a little, I’ll have to test that out given it’s winter and my workspace is cooler and dryer than usual. However, one question I need to ask is, do I really want the doors completely 100% free of any brush strokes, particularly given it will probably require more sanding attention? A little bit of handbrushed imperfection could be nice if done right, particularly since most common millwork is factory spraypainted to perfection. Any customers ever request a handpainted look?

stevecym | 4 years and 6 months ago

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I am not familiar with scuff x but want to give it a go. People keep mentioning it here.

stevecym | 4 years and 6 months ago

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Ok, i have time now. Sand the rough debris and prime with a heavy primer. Scratch the bin. In truth when we do it for pay, either all the rough comes off or we restick.

I can take a brush to a door and make it look almost like spray. You have to sand like i describe above. Sand, prime, paint, repeat. Oil is easier. Use the latex equivelent of penetrol. I hada quart of ben latex a few weeks back and it was setting up before it flowed out. I think it was a thick batch so i called bens tech team and they said add water. I added a tiny bit and bingo. I have since bought a gallon of the same paint and no problem.

stevecym | 4 years and 6 months ago

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The bin is thin. No sanding surface. You can do it inside. I dont like it for fine work.

hkapstein | 4 years and 6 months ago

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What do you think about using the zinsser BIN with scuff-x on top? Scuff-x is getting favorable talk copared with cabinet coat. Can I get away with wiping and brushing or would you spray it? One thing to consider is I’m not sure I want to take the time to really clean off every spec of old varnish, I think the BIN will seal nicely. Zinsser oil would probably be good too, but is it necesssary, especially given that it’s latex going over?

stevecym | 4 years and 6 months ago

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Primer depends on a lot. We dont use alcohol based unless over coat or touch up. Oil. Now the best one is the ben moore undercoater/surfacer but it is a 12 hour dry. So we use the oil base zinsser. If you get a lot of grain rise, go with the zinser after sanding to 120. Paint. I am looking to try inselx cabinet coat. Sand 150. Prime any bare spots. Paint same. Sand 220. Always dust. Prime bare spots paint sand 220. Now, if you have any grain, you can sand it out or reprime with a high solids primer, rustoleum makes a fast over coat. Sand 220, paint, sand 220. I know it is a lot, but this moves.

stevecym | 4 years and 6 months ago

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Harbor freight by lowes has the brushes.

stevecym | 4 years and 6 months ago

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You can use brass brushes in most cases. No steel. Not sure about brass after steam. No nylon.

hkapstein | 4 years and 6 months ago

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So as I’m working on this, I’m starting to think about what kind of paint system to use on these doors. I’m thinking a benjamin moore scuff-x semigloss waterborne paint. But how to prep and prime? Should I use a shellac based sealer/primer? A standard primer? Will it matter if I don’t perfectly remove all the old varnish spots before priming?