Paint Stripping Pros Recommendations

My wife and I just moved to a 1928 co-op apartment in the east village. We realized how many layers of paint that has been caked on during the years. We were looking to find a professional strip the doors, door frames and window frames and wanted to ask if anyone could recommend a professional who has experience with this.

Would love to get a professional opinion and estimate. We are on a budget, so wanted to get a sense of how much it would cost to do the right way. We really want to keep as much of the apartment in its original state as possible. We have 5 window frames, 7 bedroom/cabinet doors, 3 entry ways and all the baseboard in the apartment.

jwydcrqmztn

in General Discussion 1 year and 8 months ago

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jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Let’s start a new thread on Dutchmen……

Or better yet, “Salvaging 100 Year Old Doors.”

Maybe others would be interested, and chime in with tips…??

I’’m anxious for your input as I have not started yet… I’ve just gathered the tools.

Bosch “Colt” palm router, Bosch Palm orbital sander, digital caliper, and .25 & .50” chisels.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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I saw you mentioned dutchman earlier in the post and again above.. It will help if you have a multi tool with a saw blade to cut with and a miter and table saw.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Who knows what they put in that old paint and varnish….??..!!

Better safe than sorry as the cobra stripper basically burns the paint off.

I did 13 interior doors last winter, and have 4 to go.

I was also lucky that the guy doing a full gut reno down the block from me gave me four 28 inchers a couple of weeks ago…. that will free up a door to cut out Dutchman blanks with the same matching period oak.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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i think i have some here but never knew they were good for acid gasses.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Just took a look at the SPECIFIC cartridge… it’s the 3M 60923

Good description here, where I buy ‘em:

https://industrialsafety.com/3m-60923-cartridge-filter-organic-vapor-acid-gas-pack-of-2-each.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8anBhCFARIsAKbbpyQ9gQBeTcB-vwQU-A8pmrVpoYpmWkdnbIYtw8YrMFKKts4i_8myVB8aAuRUEALw_wcB

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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3M™ Combination Cartridges

Use with 3M™ 6000 Series Combination Cartridges to help filter particulates in addition to certain gases and vapors.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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850, What are you trying to block with the 3m half face respirator?

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Well just to chime in on masks and the cobra stripper…

I use a 3M half face respirator with p100 cartridge filters while peeling paint.

I workin two hour shifts though an 8-9 hour day….

The 3M unit costs about $30 and comes with a set of cartridge filters (the pink ones) which run about $10 pair.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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be aware that particle masks will not help with fumes. be aware that any of us who might have methylene chloride around or might use modern replacements, these things make not just odor but fumes. odor is one thing, fumes are another.

Fumes are hard to deal with (i simply vent them with a fan and do not wear any sort of mask; be careful – a lot of these chemicals are flammable and passing fumes through a cheap electric fan can ignite them; there are special fans for flammable products).

Someone mentions a mask in a reply above. let me say this: there are two sorts of masks that we see around, commonly: an n95 dust mask and a partial face particle (dust) mask with filters. Less commonly is a full face GAS mask. Above all of these are self contained units with tanks of breathable air which we do not see around.

The N95 is a particle filter and the P100 or P95 or N100 partial face masks are particle masks. The N95 is the triangular white filter held on with a rubber band. the P100 or P95 or N100’s are the partial face dust masks with the two cartr idge filters on them. These are NOT gas masks. they are made to stop dust particles over a certain size from entering our lungs. they will NOT stop fumes. Fumes require masks with a different sort of filter cartridge on them and those filters probably have charcoal or something in them to either deactivate or stop the fumes. Not all gas masks work with all chemicals. I just checked now: the cdc states that an organic gas mask is acceptable with methylene for “escape” (temporary) purposes only, meaning no one is going to put one on and work in that sort of environment. the only mask approved for long term exposure to methylene is a fresh air system (like a SCBA pack).

I have two gas masks here. I have never had to use one nor would i rely on one in my work (if i have to put a gas mask on, it means i did something wrong). they are here in case i have to clean up after a spill or accidentally mix products that create a reaction (spilling hydrochloric or muriatic acid can create a reaction or mixing an alkaline product with an acid when cleaning something can cause a reaction and it becomes impossible to breath; pouring acids on metals to clean them causes reactions; been there, done that).

Note that NONE of the filters on any of these masks lasts forever and some are harmed by oily mists (say if you use an N100; N means NOT oil resistant. P means oil “proof”). So if you want to sand your work and have used an N100 mask to spray oil based paint the week prior, you have damaged the filter. With a P95 or P100, that “P” means oil proof. 95 or 100 means it catches 95 or 100% of the particles over a certain size and over a certain period of time (i think an 8 hour shift, not sure).

there is a limited amount of time that ALL of these masks can be worn before the filter cartridges must be changed.

anyone working in a shop using bad stuff should know that they make escape respirators that can be worn on one’s belt (they are compact and good for two minutes). for two years in the early 1990’s i wrote training manuals in the paper industry and we had to wear this kind of respirator on our belts when we went in the chlorine plant (they use chlorine for bleaching wood pulp). these escape respirators are cheap and they sell them on Amazon. i keep a couple around here just in case.

the training on the particle masks was part of my NYS DEC WDO (wood destroying organism) training this past winter, so it is sort of fresh in my mind.

check behind everything i said above but i think i got the gist of it correct.

cate | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Just a note for any novices trying to do this: Even if you are working outdoors, you need to prevent fumes from entering the house and also you need to cover everything including the ground outside and wear booties to protect surfaces and keep from tracking around the lead-containing paint sludge your work will create. If you get paint sludge on adjacent surfaces, even outside, you are going to have to strip that. Also use an old crummy ladder you don’t care about and wear gloves while moving it. We tried to strip paint ourselves for years and eventually paying professionals to do it was the best thing we have ever done. I wish I had known about them sooner. It would have saved us a heap of time, money, not to mention a number of original surfaces that sadly we demolished because we couldn’t strip them.

normandy | 1 year and 8 months ago

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@CHM Can you share Maria’s phone number also?

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Yes I’ve tried steel wool.. just disintegrates with vigorous rubbing… Very frustrating.
I do use mineral spirits for the “final” burnish.

LOL… Im gonna need more doors to try all the suggestions.. LOL.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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I did not mention it because i don’t think your house has it but older houses have wax. Mineral spirits will soften wax and steel wool run over it will take it off.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Nice… I was so involved with trying to get it all off with one tool, I didn’t think of a two step process as my results with the chemical strippers were NOT good on the paint…. There is definitely a residual of varnish and Shellac after the cobra process. Nice.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 8 months ago

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850, the old varnish is the easiest to strip. Citrus stripper will do it. So will a lot of other things. If it is shellac, alcohol will do it.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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I’m gonna have to try a thin application of eco strip on ONLY the varnish after speedheating the old paint… sounds like a solid idea.

jrs84o | 1 year and 8 months ago

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After I strip the old paint with the cobra, I do second pass to get the old varnish. Same technique… let the varnish bubble in about a 10 inch square and scrape with a 4” paint scraper tool (it’s heavier than a putty knife.)

Once you get the hang of it, you can sense when the varnish is about to bubble….

Yes catching fire is a drawback, but the bubbles kinda act as a gauge, and you can tell when it’s time to stop applying the heat.

Glad to hear others have had success with the tool!

greenworks | 1 year and 8 months ago

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Thanks Steve will email.

I have a cobra speedheater- Steve if you want to try mine you can certainly borrow to try it out. I like it but it is just one tool in my stripping quiver. It’s great on paint but not on stain/clear coat/shellac. I use eco stuff to remove the dark stain on most of our doors pretty easily. And yes I have burned wood with the speedheater -once – when I was a little cavalier about not burning it. Still nervous about using it on a veneer door. So if your project meets the criteria it’s great but it’s not one size fits all.

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  int(1)
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What I’m trying to figure out now is “the Dutchman” process for old mortise lock areas…. That’s a whole ‘nother can of worms I hope to perfect after my 13 doors.

I’ve kinda concluded that saving the old mortise lock sets is not worth the bother as a new set complete with glass knobs and door lock plates is only around $30.

But the beautiful Stanley steel hinges they seem to have put on every turn of the century door…… are wonderful.