How to fix this trim with a big hole?
The beautiful trim around our front door has a big hole in it from an old lock. When the previous owners sold us the house, they removed the lock, which popped the entire piece away from the plaster (see photos). How does one fix this? Do I need to find similar trim and replace this component/piece? Is there some way of spot fixing w/ wood filler (this feels too detailed to do this well, but maybe I’m wrong)? Some other solution? [Screen Shot 2021-02-14 at 5](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:nihp:screenshot20210214at5.13.35pm.png.jpg) [Screen Shot 2021-02-14 at 5](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:z1gw:screenshot20210214at5.13.44pm.png.jpg) [Screen Shot 2021-02-14 at 5](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:UMCL:screenshot20210214at5.13.52pm.png.jpg)

true
in General Discussion 4 years and 6 months ago
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andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago
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they probably do not want that ugly lock any more. as these buildings move from multi occupancy to single family or high rent units, people want to get rid of those locks and go with things with a bit more style. in the hundreds of doors i have worked on, only one or two people asked to have those kind of locks installed – and those were the “slam” version of them – because they have a multi family with teenagers present and are afraid they will not stop to turn an regular deadbolt.
op, if you read my screen name and poke around on google with that (with the words not all bunched together), you will find me. i run a business. i do charge an elevated first hour rate though which is why i do not like to hard sell people. i prefer people find me.

restorationcontractor | 4 years and 6 months ago
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You could just replace the lock whether you use it or not. It looks like it’s cut for a Segal rimlock, these things have been around forever. There is a dead bolt type and a latching deadbolt type. You probably don’t want the latching type unless you want to get locked out.
Still going to have to add some blocking/dutchmen at the doorframe though.
https://www.amazon.com/Segal-Deadbolt-Construction-Polished-Brass-Plated/dp/B07N92PZL5
https://www.grainger.com/product/YALE-Brass-Rim-Lock-5T724
Antique & vintage ones available on eBay.
Also available locally at Fifth Avenue Key Shop (on 9th Street) in Park Slope.

cate | 4 years and 6 months ago
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lol, kentucky-coffeetree.

true | 4 years and 6 months ago
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Can anyone recommend a local rocket scientist that might be interested in the job?

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago
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I meant dorks second sentence.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago
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See what dork says in his first sentence and do what i am saying.

cate | 4 years and 6 months ago
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We have a ton of these all over the house, and they are no big deal either to have or to repair. If this is inside (from what I can see in the photos it is) and therefore not the focal point of the entire front of your exterior, just get any finish carpenter to patch it. If they want to be fancy, they can put in the exact trim details but if they don’t you can live with it. At least we do. This is not any big deal, and I certainly would not remove all the trim. That would be terrible. If you have a number of little jobs like this for the carpenter, it will be more worth their while to come out.

JohnHancock | 4 years and 6 months ago
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Lol. That’s what I was thinking…

dorkofwindsor | 4 years and 6 months ago
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I’ll be honest. this is not some earth shattering trim. Its beat up, looks like doug fir or old pine, not particularly ornate. If its me, I re-do the trim – unless its a basic rental. Not rocket science.

hkapstein | 4 years and 6 months ago
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I’d fix this properly by splicing in new wood, but it’s not a good DIY project because you need a lot of tools and special skills to do it right. Someone with the rightmoulding planes could probably make the section in a few hours. The epoxy type fix may work, but I have a feeling it’s a little too big for that to do a great job, and it may separate with humidity and temperature changes and show the repair.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago
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yes bob. it can and it is rock like. i find something the same color as it in old doors, even entry doors, and when we go to break it out, it is tough. hard. i think that is what it is as it has been around for as long as ….. but i do not trust it in the long run. i once removed some light fixtures from a wooden bridge that crossed a wetlands in north carolina – so i am talking full exposure to elements – and i think i filled the holes left behind with dunhams. and every time i walked by, i looked at the patches for failure and saw none.
one reason i use fast set epoxies is, if you over sand and remove too much, you can add more and have it dry in 15 minutes (a project that could be 3 days with dunhams become a one hour project). i do not even know if you can lay dunhams up in little patches and expect it to stick well to what has already fried. epoxy is versatile.
compared to epoxy dunhams is cheap. very inexpensive. but not something we use on customer product.

RobertGMarvin
in General Discussion 4 years and 6 months ago
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Could Durham’s Water Putty be used as a filler for interior repairs?

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago
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@bobjb: yes, i just looked back at your post and saw that you were thinking they were reinstalling the lock. my money is that they are not. let’s see if they come back on here and let us know.
just so you know, bondo will crack away from the wood on interior repairs. the epoxy will not.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago
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ok, if they have to put the lock back then they do need wood as the epoxy will not hold screws. i was not reading it that way though. every single door that i rebuild that has that kind of lock and damage, most people are looking to do away with that lock and go with a tubular deadbolt. we end up filling the mess.
sometimes we bury wood in the repair but that is not so much for strength but to save money on the pricey epoxy.

shahnandersen
in General Discussion 4 years and 6 months ago
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@doorsbythetinkerswagon
I was not suggesting wood filler for support. I suggested a dutchman (screwed in) to attach the strike to for support and the wood filler around the strike to best match the trim outline.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago
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here is where the problem arises and what people do not understand about bondo & wood filler and epoxy.
Bondo and wood filler have NO structural properties. the fast drying wood filler made by Minwax is “bondo”. bondo will crack and move away from the wood. epoxy binds to the wood and has structural qualities.
i do see the hollow behind the casement. i would just pack that with more epoxy (the mohawk sets in five minutes, that is why we use it), let it set, and put more epoxy in over it and over fill the wound and sand it off to match. they will have to use sand paper on a block to form the profile.
this is not rocket science. its also a repair that a homeowner is trying to do. not a restoration.

shahnandersen
in General Discussion 4 years and 6 months ago
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It looks like the hole is where the strike used to be. Securely replacing the strike and lining it up to the replacement lock that you install is probably more important than matching the trim. I’d put in a flat dutchman shimmed to the right depth and fasten it securely to the frame. Then install the lock and the strike so that they are properly lined up. When that is done you can use the epoxy/wood putty/ bondo around the strike to match the contour of the trim in what is left of the hole after the strike is installed.

JohnHancock | 4 years and 6 months ago
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Its always best to make a clean cut first, take out the remaining failed wood filler that is currently in there, then insert a piece of wood glued in w epoxy for strength. You need a piece of wood if you want to ever put a lock back in there, I don’t think a large blob of epoxy will do the trick. Looks like it’s hollow behind the trim. You can build up w. Wood or molded epoxy to finish.

Guest User | 4 years and 6 months ago
string(1) "3" string(6) "200749"
I vote epoxy as seems hard to match with Dutch patching given the trim pieces.
I don’t know how versatile the Dutchman patch allows – seems more for a clean cut area.