How Cold do Cellars Get
We are interested in partially doing the same, but our Mechanical Engineer has said it is not possible. Do you have an engineer that you would recommend, I’d like to get a second opinion from someone.

nirnur
in General Discussion 1 year and 7 months ago
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Cole | 1 year and 7 months ago
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I have a brownstone attached on two sides. We’re going all-electric and getting rid of gas (let’s not start that argument again – if it helps I have solar). My question is about the cellar, where there are many pipes. In Brooklyn,, is there any fear of the cellar getting so cold without a boiler or hot water heater down there that the pipes freeze?
Also, does the removal of boiler and water heater make the cellar less musty, more musty, or won’t make any noticeable difference?
Thanks.

carolina-moscoso | 1 year and 7 months ago
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Can’t speak for an attached structure as we haven’t done the heat conversion in our brownstone yet, but we went full-electric in our detached 1910 colonial upstate (fieldstone foundation, approx 80% below grade, unfinished with absolutely no insulation). I initially shared your concerns and carefully monitored temperatures with remote temp sensors and electric heaters ready to be deployed just in case, only to find that the temps never hit below the high 40s in the coldest days of the winter. Definitely noticeably colder if you need to be down there doing work in the winter, but zero impact on plumbing. Can’t opine on humidity other than offering that we use a dehumidifier down there year round and winter air is usually much dryer than other seasons. Temps in BK run, on average, at least 10 degrees warmer from where we are upstate, and being attached on both sides certainly helps. Contractor did offer to run a mini-split line down there but would have been an expensive run due to configuration of the run and the fact that it takes two guys alternating on the hammer dirl l with two diamond bits about 2 hours to get through these stones. Was glad I didn’t spend the extra $$ but always an option for you if you want the peace of mind.
Naysayers here will scare you, but I don’t see a plausible scenario where your pipes will be in danger of freezing. And if there was a crazy cold spell that lasted weeks, an electric space heater or radiant panel on the wall would give you enough breathing room.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 7 months ago
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I am with 20% fix because i have dealt with tightly sealed cellars on long island but the naysayers here speak because they have these iron hatches in the front and back and any leaks at all or even iron hatches allow heat transfer which is all it takes. I suppose if you can isolate the area under the hatches it will be better. Seal all drafts.
As far as musty odor, that is from general humid conditions or past water condiotions and has nothing to do with the heating apparatus. Maybe a dehumidifier.

cate | 1 year and 7 months ago
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We have an attached row house with a fully underground cellar whose two puny windows opening into the closed hatches fore and aft are open all year round. It’s always temperate in the cellar, never cold. We do have an exterior hose bib, and I am careful to turn off the water and empty the pipe every year before heating season. The shut off is about 6 feet in from the exterior wall.