Crown molding size recommendations for 10' ceilings?
That’s very nice of you Eddie. That’s bigger molding than what I thought would have been there originally.
Dorkofwindsor, thank you so much for the link!

Guest User | 4 years and 3 months ago
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Guest User | 4 years and 3 months ago
string(1) "3" string(6) "197563"
I started to feel ashamed about considering polyurethane lol. I guess when I said historically appropriate I meant more loosely. My baseboards are actually painted mdf cut in strips and topped with a base cap. Otherwise god knows how much I would have spent to change them to something more substantial. They wouldn’t be mistaken for original but I like them and they’re the same proportions as the original baseboards.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 3 months ago
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if you are doing long runs, you will have less movement and less chance of a scarf opening on the poly. less chance of corners opening. i am a purist myself, but as materials change, we can pick and choose what will work and what won’t. no one will know with the crown.
also, the other day, with the wood, i said glue the scarfs and caulk the corners. if you are a real purist and want to do it the old way, ditch the caulk and cope the corners placing the longer run behind the short one. perhaps you won’t have to caulk. short of doing this, go with the poly.

hkapstein | 4 years and 3 months ago
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Not all moulding profiles can be coped so if you plan to do that, you should check.

stevecym | 4 years and 3 months ago
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Its more a matter of the hand that’s doing the coping. A secret: i clean them up with a burr in a die grinder.
And i have not done one in ten years.

Guest User | 4 years and 3 months ago
string(1) "3" string(6) "197563"
I’m more and more certain I’m going to hire someone else to install!

stevecym | 4 years and 3 months ago
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Dont listen to us fussing about coping. If you do the poly, it sholud be easy.
If you do large wood, the trick is not to attach it to the wall but to furring that is solidly fastened to the wall. Let the big crown hang a little loosly so if things are off with the walls, you can fudge them a bit to line it all up. If there are waves in the wall, shim where need be and plane where need be and when it is all lined up, secure it and caulk it on the top and bottom and inside corners. Glue scarfs and outside corners. Its easy. One you learn not to force the big stuff, it gets easier.

stevecym | 4 years and 3 months ago
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And dont cope. If i gave someone a quote to cope and it was 25% more, they would tell me to mitre it.

Guest User | 4 years and 3 months ago
string(1) "3" string(6) "197563"
I can’t cope! Actually I still don’t know what I’m installing much less how. I got out all the old samples I ordered and find I still don’t think any are right.

stevecym | 4 years and 3 months ago
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Even low cielings have some big moldings, even in my crappy queens house. I am not sure what my customers have done to look at moldings and i have never had to suggest any, so look at photos and see if you can get in the neighbors houses. Dont be quick to do anything that denotes a particular period that might be out of place and dont start with a dykes catalog as if you have not done this before, you wont know what you are looking at. When doing big moldings in old houses, i have noticed that most people stay away from real colonial looking stuff but go with broad curves, concave or convex with few steps, perhaps one where the trim meets the wall and cieling. If you like open and airy, you dont want busy and some of the busier trim will make you feel boxed in and that may be ok, in some of the bigger houses down there.

RobertGMarvin
in General Discussion 4 years and 3 months ago
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A friend showed me how to do coping many years ago. I’m sure I couldn’t do it now (and maybe not even then$. My carpentry skills are minimal.

Guest User | 4 years and 3 months ago
string(1) "3" string(6) "197563"
Thanks again for all the advice. I can only miter, nail gun and glue. It’s all I’ve needed for moldings until now. The parlor has too many angles and a heat pipe too – I’m not even going to try to deal with that myself.
I have a 9″ face cove sample that still looks too big. I’m looking for something simple, but it leaves me underwhelmed (so maybe it’s a little too simple).

stevecym | 4 years and 3 months ago
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If you have done this before, even with small moldings you can move to the big. Because of the way the are hung, they are almost easier. And nothing wrong with mitering.
There are books all over the place about this stuff. I consider it work for lower skilled workers at this point and i hate the up and down on multiple ladders, otherwise i might put my name forth.
And get yourself a mitre guage.

Guest User | 4 years and 3 months ago
string(1) "3" string(6) "197563"
Thanks stevecym

dorkofwindsor | 4 years and 3 months ago
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For DIY’ers there is a finish carpenter (wainscoting, crown) on YT that has really great videos, I recommend checking out. I think the channel is called Finish Carpentry TV.

brklyn1 | 4 years and 3 months ago
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Hi,
If you’re still looking for ideas, I will stop by at one of my brownstone plaster restoration jobs and will measure it. It’s on the parlor hallway. I can take a picture and posted here.

Guest User | 4 years and 3 months ago
string(1) "3" string(6) "197563"
Wow, that would be very helpful brklyn1 if it’s not inconvenient for you. Thank you in advance.

brklyn1 | 4 years and 3 months ago
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Hey DDSR
Here are a few pictures, unfortunately the hallway was demoed and dropped 6” right now it’s at 9’6”. The living room is 10’ I have attached the crown molding Profile, I’ll post another picture for the hallway Once is installed.

brklyn1 | 4 years and 3 months ago
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brklyn1 | 4 years and 3 months ago
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