Coal Chute

Does anyone know where one can purchase a hatch cover to cover one of the old coal chutes? I already have a locking grate but I need a new cover since the old one is rotting away. I would prefer one made of wood covered with metal, but even a plastic one would be fine. Thanks.

chukat

in General Discussion 8 years and 1 month ago

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anne_nyc | 8 years and 5 months ago

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We are thinking about closing up our coal chute. It leaks water and we don’t really use it. Any arguments against keeping it? I know it might limit our access to the basement but the water issue seems bigger. I would love to hear yea or nay.

BobMarvin | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Perhaps a new hatch cover might eliminate the leaking.

EJR | 8 years and 5 months ago

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I agree with trying a new hatch. Bilco makes very good products. I don’t know how big your chute is, but it may be useful for workman to enter/exit the basement without traipsing through the house. That’s what I use mine for (plus I have a hose right under the hatch for watering the front garden).

BobMarvin | 8 years and 5 months ago

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I haven’t seen Bilco hatches on coal chutes in my neighborhood. Most seem to be made of diamond-plate, by iron works.

EJR | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Bob, you’re right, it’s not bilco. I was thinking of something like this: http://cellardoors.com/diamond-plate-doors/photo-gallery/

BobMarvin | 8 years and 5 months ago

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EJR,

I’d be inclined to have a door made by a local ironworks instead of ordering a pre-fab one from out of state; they aren’t terribly expensive.

no-permits | 8 years and 5 months ago

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If you have a boiler and hot water heater, the chute would probably be your only way in and out to replace them. Look around – no one closes them off.

robyim1 | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Better to keep it for access or even to air out the cellar if needed. I never thought of filling it in. I only thought of ways to keep the water out. Made a flat steel cover for it. That seems to keep most water out. If you want to completely dry you can cover with a tarp or install a drain.

robyim1 | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Better to keep it for access or even to air out the cellar if needed. I never thought of filling it in. I only thought of ways to keep the water out. Made a flat steel cover for it. That seems to keep most water out. If you want to completely dry you can cover with a tarp or install a drain.

robyim1 | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Better to keep it for access or even to air out the cellar if needed. I never thought of filling it in. I only thought of ways to keep the water out. Made a flat steel cover for it. That seems to keep most water out. If you want to completely dry you can cover with a tarp or install a drain.

daveinbedstuy | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Just FYI for those who may need one, there used to be a few more but there is still one brand (Speed Queen) of FULL SIZE washers and dryers that are “knock down” meaning they can easily be taken apart and reassembled in your basement when access is too tight to get full size ones in and you don’t want those smaller ones. At least here in Philadelphia the additional charge is only $90. It may be difficult to find a dealer who will do it though.

cate | 8 years and 5 months ago

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You can’t close it up without filing for a change of egress with the DOB and I doubt they would approve it. Plus you need access for air and to get equipment and boilers in and out.

SoSlope | 8 years and 5 months ago

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We completely redid our front yard. The person doing it suggested covering the coal chute. While we have never used the coal chute for anything, we thought it was probably not a good idea to permanently seal it. Instead, we had a custom metal hatch made. It was not overly expensive, fits very well, keeps the water out, and is very secure (it has a bold on the inside). We originally wanted a completely flush hatch, but we were told that that design would never be completely dry, so we went with one that is raised up about an inch. By the way, what was there before was a wood hatch cover made of plywood sitting on top of a locked grate. The metal hatch is a huge upgrade.

alicecfoster

in General Discussion 8 years and 5 months ago

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Two issues that may or may not apply in your case – you are required to have a fresh air vent in the room containing the gas meters and into the furnace room – the latter for oxygen that the furnace and hot water heater need to burn and the former so you don’t get gas build-up if you have a leak. Both of these are required by code and are critical for your safety.

alicecfoster

in General Discussion 8 years and 5 months ago

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Two issues that may or may not apply in your case – you are required to have a fresh air vent in the room containing the gas meters and into the furnace room – the latter for oxygen that the furnace and hot water heater need to burn and the former so you don’t get gas build-up if you have a leak. Both of these are required by code and are critical for your safety.

alicecfoster

in General Discussion 8 years and 5 months ago

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Two issues that may or may not apply in your case – you are required to have a fresh air vent in the room containing the gas meters and into the furnace room – the latter for oxygen that the furnace and hot water heater need to burn and the former so you don’t get gas build-up if you have a leak. Both of these are required by code and are critical for your safety.

resident2 | 8 years and 5 months ago

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It is legally required. Egress for FDNY in case of an emergency.
If you do not have your boiler etc down there, you will still need to file for the removal of it. I would say do not open up that can of worms.
It is a useful thing to keep; ventilation, access to storage etc.
Work on getting a better weather proof cover for it, or make a dry well to control any water that does come down it.