Brownstone front doors

https://www.brownstoner.com/services/windows-doors-nyc/

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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redrube | 4 years and 5 months ago

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Looking to replace front doors and transom on brownstone.. Can’t seem to find anyone
Any suggestion ?

JohnHancock | 4 years and 5 months ago

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Uhmmmmm, doorsby?…..

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 5 months ago

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Hey, thank you jh.

Op. I do not really make doors for people i do not already have a relationship with. To much planning and layout work.

If you want to toss some ideas around and see if i can give you ideas, email me or call. Just not today, i am in a sour mood.

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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The Finest Brownstone Wood Restoration https://brownstonewoodrestoration.com
Southside Workshop https://www.sws.nyc
Heights wood working http://heightswood.com
Red hook Millworks https://www.redhookmillworks.com/
Trustile https://www.trustile.com Custom option
Amighini Architectural https://amighini.net (though I find their doors a bit strange)
Jim Illingworth https://jimillingworthmillwork.com/

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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Rick Ladd https://www.brownstoner.com/services/carpenter-nyc/d560c277fcf4bb/rick-ladd-brooklyn-561-47th-st-brooklyn-ny-11220/

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 5 months ago

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www.sws.nyc or heights

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 5 months ago

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i was under the impression that armighini imported doors. to janes comment, a bit strange, they are made out of woods that do not always seem to work well in this region – some splitting – and the stiles can be too narrow to handle a 2 3/8″ backset lock.

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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These are great tips… can anyone say a ballpark estimate for what such doors usually cost?

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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Depends on who you go with, anything custom and historical is going to run 8k to 15k on average per set of doors. If you go with someone like Trustile perhaps cheaper but that’s a different look.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 5 months ago

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janes prices are bang on. 8k for paint grade though it might be a tad low when you consider the bells and whistles like lockset, hinges etc. the last doors i made, they were oak faced and i stripped and sanded the transom and narrow molding down the side and finished same and i charged him 13k. if you have to have a frame installed and transom, i would not expect to see anything, even something that is not oak or mahogany, for less than 11 on the low and 18 for the finer woods. the bigger doors/units, curved top. a lot of what we see in carrol gardens. i can see some of the bigger, finer units hitting 20k.

locks and hinges can hit a 1 k for quality stuff. slide bolts. i cannot recall if the 13k i mention above included those but mostly like the hinges and slide bolts.

keep in mind, when i am saying better woods. doors are made of built up staves. pine core. oak or mahogany edge and same for the facing (the old stuff is 1/4″ thick not like modern veneer. we have the wood resawn and go with the thick stuff). they are not solid oak or mahagany. it is less a factor of cost of wood and more a factor that the pine core makes the door more stable and resistant to bending. especially now a days with central a/c drying the air on one side whilst the humid summer day is on the other; solid wood might bend. at minimum, two pieces have to be laminated together to make the stiles and rails. but it is safer to make “staves” and making staves is labor intensive.

i might see if nate at slope wants to chime in here.

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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I forgot to mention the prices I had above exclude hardware (knobs/levers +lock sets) other than hinges and slide bolts. Also remember to account for thresholds.

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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This is such great info, thanks Jane and Doorsby… Another question, for a door that is south-facing, would you recommend painting it or just having the natural wood, or does it not matter? If we go with the natural wood, what do you recommend coating it with to protect it?

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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A personal preference. Think about your facade, window frame color, mailboxes, lights, planters and garbage cans. What would complement those? You can use Osmo if you want a natural finish and I am 1000% certain Steve is going to have other good suggestions. I like white oak oak but mine were mahogany so I opted to paint. Both are good wood choices for doors. Make sure the doors are not made from solid wood and ensure you get a brush sweep so that air doesn’t enter under the door. And make sure around the door is insulated well.

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 4 years and 5 months ago

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I have south-facing oak veneered doors that I had stripped and refinished several years ago. I’ve found that a couple of coats of spar varnish every other year keeps them looking good.

Guest User | 4 years and 5 months ago

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Or clear exterior paint is also an option.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 5 months ago

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maintaining varnish is an issue. bob is spot on with what he says. i have called every manufacturer (interlux, petit, epifanes) and every one said a coat a year or two coats every other year. read the reviews and comments by the sail boat guys in Wood Boat Magazine.

when i do a pair of doors for someone, i tell them i will comeback and recoat for a modest fee. i do not do that for people i have not done doors for but i think i might explain how to do it on my web site. a page dedicated to it.

Paint? i have doors i did on Dean St, east of smith, south side, closer the the next cross st, purple doors. i did just about 10 years ago now. should be failing by now but not sure it is. and on decatur, the bright blue doors just east of styvesant i did about a decade ago and that house gets sun and it has lasted. banged up from the bicycles and such hitting the edges.

its all in the preparation. sand to 120 (others tell me they go 150 or 180, i do not). prime. use a good primer (if clear coating seal coat with spirits/varnish mix). if dry wood, ben more long oil primer. i wrote on here the other day about working on trim and wanting to put an epoxy into soft wood. since no one replied i did what i always did: a concoction of marine varnish (20%), linseed oil (20%), Japan Drier (3%) and and 57% turpentine and let is soak in. i will look at the wood next week. if it looks improved, i will prime it with a low linseed oil primer. if it needs more oil, the long oil primer. apply first paint coat and then sand again with perhaps 150. do not go through primer. paint. sand 180, paint. always tack.

i still use oil paints. i use water if there are kids around it the odors will get in the house. water base are getting better every year. for water base, i have been bouncing between ben moore and sherwin williams.

Do not use anything from bob marvins favorite big box store (HD).

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 5 months ago

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i need to clarify something i said above lest people think i return varnished product with sanding marks in it, by stopping at 120. we have a linear sander we use and will run that over to take sanding marks out. sometimes i will sand down to 150 and back sand to 120. its work. better sanders make it easier.

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 4 years and 5 months ago

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Steve,

HD is certainly NOT a store I like to use. Even Lowes is better , although I r try to avoid big box stores whenever possible.