Replacing ruined hardwood floor
Hi all, I have a friend whose 3/4 inch maple floor (quartersawn planks) was ruined when she went on vacation and a pipe began to leak. It leaked for weeks, soaking the whole floor. The floor in question is in an apartment building, the substrate is concrete, and the now-ruined maple planks had been glued onto a pad that itself was glued onto the concrete. Here insurance company has sent over a contractor, who said that the original maple floor was badly installed (he said that a pad should have never been used between concrete and hardwood). Instead, he pushed using a pad with an “engineered floor,” which is basically plywood with a thick hardwood veneer on top. The contractor said that her other option would be to go with 3/4 inch ply, and then to lay 3/4 inch planks on top of that. The problem is that would raise her floor 1.5 inches from the concrete; she would have to cut down all of her doors in order to open them. Any quidance would be much appreciated. Does it sound like the contractor is fairly representing her options? Would you recommend one or the other? Or something different?
dnk
in Flooring 13 years and 3 months ago
9
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9 replies
advancedhardwoodflooring | 13 years ago
I would be happy to personally take a look at your hardwood floor and give my advice and a free estimate. Our family has been installing and restoring hardwood flooring for 3 generations. We are here to help. Nick Palumbo, Advanced Hardwood Flooring, Brooklyn, NY **(917) 217-6115**
dnk | 13 years and 3 months ago
Thank you all for the advice; very helpful!
slopemope | 13 years and 3 months ago
3/4 pressure treated ply is sort of a default standard as an underlayment in these parts for concrete, its not always optimal (i doubt you will find many condo buildings who are going to do a lyer of plastic, plus sleepers and then ply – – or use dri-core panels). ideally it is good when there is a layer of air between the concrete and wood – but you usually see this more for basements. the existing arrangement underlayment pad glued to wood/concrete thing is definitely not correct – that is for floating laminated floors. why was it done? who knows. maybe they didn’t want a step-up between the hallway, were lazy or just stupid (or both). as a compromise, you could for example inquire with yoru contractor about a 3/8 or 1/2 pressure treated plywood glued to the concrete with a 1/2 engineered wood floor (there is a thin layer of real wood). with apt buildings, and water damage being more common than not, usually a floor that will last your lifetime is not always what is necessary. if it keeps your floor height the same, i’d say why not – especially if you are on a lower floor where all drips come to you.
jparnass | 13 years and 3 months ago
You will definitely need some kind of subfloor beneath the finish floor. A thin vapor barrier should go over the slab followed by 5/8 CDX plywood and then you could use 1/2″ hardwood planks. Hardwood is infinitely nicer than engineered flooring since it will be sanded and finished after insulation, avoiding the cheesy “beveled-edge glossy-finish ikea fake laminate” look. And it will last 100+ years. I would undercut the doors without a second’s hesitation in order to get a real wood floor. We recommend an Osmo oil (NOTpolyurethane) finish for maximum enjoyment. For jobs where you need to match a critical floor height we’ve had success working with Verrazano Flooring: (718) 369-9663.
BHS | 13 years and 3 months ago
Ok so the question is really whether the underlay needs to be plywood or a pad? You should just call a few wood flooring companies to get an answer. That’s fairly straightforward. Perhaps there’s a thin moisture barrier that could be used to reduce moisture issues but not elevate the floor so much that it results in needing to adjust doors etc. Also, if the flooring was 3/4″ before, the increase in height would be only the difference between the pad used before and plywood you use instead, if that’s what you go with. This should be less than 3/4″ (3/4″ plywood less height of prior pad) from what you’ve said. Could still be an issue, but far less of one than 1.5″.
dnk | 13 years and 3 months ago
Water dripped for weeks, soaking into the floor — and more importantly, the pad underneath, which acted like a sponge, pulling water across the room. It’s an area of maybe 200 sq. ft. The planks were swollen with water, and had to be pulled up because there was no way to dry out the pad underneath.
nintzk | 13 years and 3 months ago
what do you mean by ruined? and how much of the floor was ruined?
dnk | 13 years and 3 months ago
My friend is not under the obligation to work with the insurance company’s contractor. She can take a payment and do what she wishes with it. I guess the dynamic there is that that the insurance company will try to pay less, while of course my friend will want more. Obviously, the quartersawn 3/4″ maple would be the best option. Here is the nub of my question: the contractor is saying that one should not put solid maple down on top of a pad that is itself on top of concrete. (Although he says you can do this with engineered wood). He says that for solid wood planks, one should first put down plywood, and then the maple. Is he right?
BHS | 13 years and 3 months ago
I think you need to be more clear about what the question is. Obviously the options presented are cheaper solutions than quartersawn 3/4″ solid maple. But you don’t say that it would be technically impossible to replace with the same. What is the insurance company’s obliation–to replace the materials in place regardless of cost or to spend up to provide up to some dollar amount for repairs. Is your friend under any obligation to use the contractor sent by the insurance carrier and if so why? If she wants to know what her options are, she should call a quality wood flooring company to discuss possibilities and prices. So half of this is a question about her insurance coverage, which only the insurance carrier can answer, and the other half is what’s technically feasible and what would fit within whatever budget is allowed, if there’s a restriction.