DIY door and brownstone stoop repairs to slow further deterioration?

Hi everyone. My (landmarked) facade, including the door, needs a proper re-do. But after getting some bids it’s going to be 3-5 years until we have the money. In the meantime, I’m trying to stop things from getting worse.

Thankfully, the areas at risk of deterioration seem limited to the door and stoop. Unfortunately, I’m not sure how to go about making some basic repairs.

Breaking this down into a few different areas where I’m looking for advice. Pics attached. Also wondering if it’s going to mean significantly more damage (and increased cost) if I just let these issues go for a few years until we can redo everything with pro.

-The door has a crack down the middle. Is it safe to scrape out any small rotted bits, use a bit of wood filler, sand down, and repaint?

-Caulk around the door is starting to break off. I’m thinking I’ll remove as much of the old caulk as possible, put backing in if necessary (including into some of the areas missing mortar on the adjoining brick), and then recaulk. Bad idea? Recommendations on the kind of caulk also very appreciated.

-The ma rble threshold is cracked. Is there a recommended caulk or compound I can use to fill these cracks? It doesn’t have to match perfectly, just something that will hold for a few years and keep water out.

-Caulk(??) is missing from or breaking from in between and the bottom of the brownstone steps. Is there a recommended product I can use to refill these?

-I have no idea what to do about the small bits and chunks of missing brownstone and the cracks. I’ve never worked with concrete before, so this is especially intimidating. Can I let the missing chunks slide and focus on filling the cracks? Is there a caulk or caulk-like product I can use instead of concrete/cement? If I should fill the missing chunks, any tips, especially about materials I should use?

Less critically, looking for any tips on filling the surface concrete cracks.

Thanks!
[Unfilled joint at bottom of brownstone steps](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:Ayy9:unfilledjointatbottomofbrownstonesteps.jpg.jpg) [Cracked threshold and brownstone cracks](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:F1o8:crackedthresholdandbrownstonecracks.jpg.jpg) [Chipped brownstone](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:eWiW:chippedbrownstone.jpg.jpg) [Cracks in side of stoop](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:x73u:cracksinsideofstoop.jpg.jpg) [Split door closeup](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:ApyJ:splitdoorcloseup.jpg.jpg) [Split door](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:cPRc:splitdoor.jpg.jpg) [Detaching caulk around door](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:kjfn:detachingcaulkarounddoor.jpg.jpg) [Missing chunk of brownstone with exposed layers](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:5YR4:missingchunkofbrownstonewithexposedlayers.jpg.jpg)

cdix999

in Exteriors 3 years and 6 months ago

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cate | 3 years and 5 months ago

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mws2112, thanks for posting your solutions and photos. I’ve got to try that marble crack repair.

stevecym | 3 years and 5 months ago

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Minwax high performance wood filler is actually thickened polyester resin known to people who do auto body work as “bondo”. It is pretty good for fixing dents in metal. I know you are doing a temporary repair and if I were a homeowner I would use bondo. Bondo is not as tenacious as what it takes to bond with wood but it might last a few years.

Thickened epoxy would have been a better choice.

I did not come on here to criticize what you did. I came on here to say this is what I meant when I said corner hardware and paint stores are limited; both in product and knowledge. They sell crappy product made by a crappy company that has labeled something that I consider “low performance” “high performance” to dupe consumers into buying their garbage. The retailer is wrong to sell it without suggesting an alternative or making the effort to stock thickened epoxy sticks (mohawk makes them for pros, I cannot recall the name of the retail sticks some good hardware stores carry; garber hardware in lower manhattan stocks them).

Even still the hard epoxy sticks may not have made the best bond. Usually wood splits require cleaning up and the addition of more wood. Sometimes I put thickened liquid epoxy in and tap wood strips or veneer in behind it. The epoxy sticks are great for filling holes requiring something tenacious.

I think a big can of bondo from hd or auto zone is much cheaper than that stuff in a yellow can. Also, hd or some other retailer stocks bondo with polyester fibers in it, sort of the way they used to put horsehair in plaster; it makes it stronger.

As for the local paint and hardware stores, times have changed. Leopoldi can find a little room on the shelf for wood epoxy sticks and with the ben moore retailers, it’s even worse; my understanding is the new stores carrying their product with their display units are only allowed to carry their product. So in the process of cutting the competition out, they stifle innovation and their employees know nothing moore than what ben Moore tells them; which is nothing about the industry and what might help homeowners. Ben Moore is no friend of the consumer. Nor is minwax.

stevecym | 3 years and 5 months ago

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That hydraulic cement was a good call. It does not expand was much as we think but pressed a little onto voids and rises a tad at the top as it cures. I bet those patches you did last for a long time.

cdix999 | 3 years and 5 months ago

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Thanks to everyone who responded, and appreciate all the advice and thoughts shared.

Here’s how things turned out, in case other forum members want to know what happened. Don’t hesitate to weigh in, and I know the work doesn’t look great. Hopefully it holds up for a bit. I unfortunately missed most of the responses before I did the work, and if I had seen some of the later advice I would have done things differently (see posts by dorkofwindsor and stevecym).

I went to Leopoldi’s who were useful and recommended products and techniques. For the brownstone repair, they said to go to mason supply. I ended up at Glenwood Mason supply and they were very friendly.

Pictures at the bottom!

*Marble threshold*:

I used this [GE silicone kitchen and bath sealant](https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/caulk-and-sealants/caulk/1023381).

I cleaned out the crack with a toothpick, blew the crack out with canned air, put painters tape around the crack, applied the product, used a putty knife to get the product deep in the crack then smoothed it out, and finally r emoved the tape. Seems to be holding well.

*Door crack*:

I used this [Minwax high performance wood filler](https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler).

I scraped off the paint around the crack, used a brass brush (gently) to dislodge some small loose and dead pieces of wood, and then blew out the crack with canned air. Next, I filled the crack with the product, waited overnight, sanded it down with 120 grit sandpaper, cleaned it off, then painted.

The paint developed a small crack within a few days, but the actual repair seems fine. We’ll see what happens this winter.

*Door caulk*:

I used this [Red Devil siliconized acrylic caulk](https://www.reddevil.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=954), in brown, which for some reason doesn’t seem to exist on the internet (it’s all “dark brown”).

I peeled of a few old bits of caulk that was coming off, but most of it was pretty secure so I left it. I stuffed some backer rod in the deeper holes where mortar was missing. I then caulked around the door, from stoop to stop, mostly over the old caulk. I tried to only use enough caulk to cover the backer rod/open mortar holes without flooding mortar gaps full of caulk. The picture shows some of the meatier mortar gap caulking.

Caulk seems to be holding well.

*Brownstone repair*:

I only worked on the big cracks and missing chunks, I’ve left the surface pock marks and divots unfilled. Doesn’t seem like that will help with keeping water out, and I’m not concerned about the cosmetic damage.

I used [Sakrete hydraulic cement leak stopper](https://www.sakrete.com/product/leak-stopper/). I was a bit afraid to use this product since I think hydraulic cement expands when drying, but mason supply insisted it was fine to use. I also used a [pigment](https://www.mutualindustries.net/product/1-lb-box-of-rainbow-color-burnt-umber) to attempt to match the color. I made a handful of small test batches and let them dry to experiment with matching the color.

I used a wire brush to clean out the crack/holes (very gently on the big holes, it was very soft) and blew out loose material with a leaf blower. To make the cement, I mixed the pigment and cement first, then added it to the indicated amount of water. Then I shoved the wet cement in cracks and holes and troweled it the best I could.

Pictures of the repair don’t exactly match the initial angles, I’m sorry.

When I was making these repairs, I noticed a much larger stoop crack with a bulge, and [I posted about that separately if you’re interested](https://www.brownstoner.com/forum/#!/exterior:side-of-stoop-starting-to-b). The crack was there before I made any repairs to the stoop.

[Caulked door frame](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:0jxm:caulkeddoorframe.jpg.jpg) [Door crack](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:JNLF:doorcrack.jpg.jpg) [Browstone gap repair](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:wmG7:browstonegaprepair.jpg.jpg) [Brownstone crack repair](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:nbOq:brownstonecrackrepair.jpg.jpg) [Marble threshold](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:2Rzk:marblethreshold.jpg.jpg)

stevecym | 3 years and 6 months ago

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In saying only run it horizontal when necessary, I should have added running it vertical , say along brick mold or a window is usually ok.

Even still, with the old extended jambs, with say some old voids or issues up above, I do not like using caulk as I am afraid water will get trapped inside and lead to rot.

stevecym | 3 years and 6 months ago

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And do not use caulk on any masonry, period. You can use caulk between other elements and masonry but only run it horizontal when necessary and perhaps along the the top of something.

Caulk is not a cure all for all of these things and using it in the wrong places, especially on masonry, can trap water and since water expands 9% as it freezes, it tends to do weird things to concrete. Ever leave a beer bottle in the freezer too long?

stevecym | 3 years and 6 months ago

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See what door says about epoxy.

Listen, for a lot of stuff, the local hardware and paint stores are limited in product and knowledge. The hardware stores do not have the epoxy you need for marble nor do hd and lowes. Go on line or to a tile/stone retailer.

dorkofwindsor | 3 years and 6 months ago

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marble is usually filled with epoxy. I wouldn’t spend a lot because for $15-25 you can buy a brand new threshold:
https://www.marblerestoration.us/how-to-use-epoxy-for-marble-crack.htm
https://www.flooranddecor.com/finishing-pieces-decoratives/carrara-white-4-x-36-in.-marble-threshold-100224179.html?externalVisit=true

door caulk: I would use an exterior poly caulk. backer rod is always wise and recommended, the last time I checked lowes’ smallest was 3/8″.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Pl-S40-Window-Door-and-Siding-10-oz-White-Paintable-Polyurethane-Caulk/999924716

quickcrete makes a mortar repair in a caulking tube. its probably junk but should hold you over.

For all the stoop patching, I recommend skipping the big box concrete patching crap (as you can see, it doesn’t work) and go straight to epoxy cement patch. Should be able to use for cracks, spalling as well as those gaps where the treads and risers meet. No primer or topcoat – but you’ll have to mix it up in 15 minute increments as you go. Just take a small hammer and wire brush and get all the old cracked bits (including previously “repaired” areas).

https://store.interstateproducts.com/products/Power-Patch-Brown-1-Kit

unfortunately you need 60 degrees for this, and next week may be the last opportunity for the year. if you need an alternative, rust oleum makes an epoxy cement repair kit, I have never used this, but at least its epoxy and should work light years better than generic cement patch.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-EpoxyShield-24-oz-Concrete-Patch-and-Repair-Kit-215173/202097324

you may want to also paint after all is done – if you take a decent sized sliver of the original chipped brownstone to Benjamin Moore, they can scan it and make the color in their Ultra Spec Masonry (breathable waterproof) paint.

good luck and godspeed!

andriywww1990 | 3 years and 6 months ago

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generally speaking, if a door needs restoration, it needs restoration and waiting a few years will not impact the cost (much). the damage was done decades ago and the same wood has to be cut out and replaced. sometimes i get people call with a door that is becoming a security hazard (its about to fall apart) and that would have to be addressed sooner than later. when i encounter those, i often do a temporary repair for people once we have a deposit on the full on project even if we cannot move on it for 4 month or so.

RobertGMarvin

in Exteriors 3 years and 6 months ago

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FWIW Leopoldi’s is my favorite hardware store. We FINALLY have an adequate hardware store here in PLG (Flat Hardware on Flatbush “@ Midwood Street) and I appreciate that they’re a block from my house and are open late, but if need advice, or anything the least bit unusual, I make the trip across the park.

ceci | 3 years and 6 months ago

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You need a handyman and if not go to local hardware store. My go to hardware is Leopoldis in Park Slope and show them your pictures. They can recommend cement fillers, caulking and other items you might need to tackle your, DIY project!!! Good Luck!!

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    ["edit_others_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["publish_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["read_private_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_private_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_published_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_others_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_private_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_published_feed_blacklists"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["manage_feed_blacklist_terms"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_feed_blacklist_terms"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_feed_blacklist_terms"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["assign_feed_blacklist_terms"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_feed_template"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["read_feed_template"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_feed_template"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_others_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["publish_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["read_private_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_private_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_published_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_others_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_private_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_published_feed_templates"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["manage_feed_template_terms"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_feed_template_terms"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_feed_template_terms"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["assign_feed_template_terms"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_shortcoder"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["read_shortcoder"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_shortcoder"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_shortcoders"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_others_shortcoders"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["publish_shortcoders"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_shortcoders"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_published_shortcoders"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["delete_others_shortcoders"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["edit_published_shortcoders"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["aioseo_manage_seo"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["aioseo_page_analysis"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["aioseo_page_general_settings"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["aioseo_page_advanced_settings"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["aioseo_page_schema_settings"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["aioseo_page_social_settings"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_edit_htaccess"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_titles"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_general"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_sitemap"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_404_monitor"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_link_builder"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_redirections"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_role_manager"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_search_console"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_site_analysis"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_onpage_analysis"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_onpage_general"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_onpage_advanced"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_onpage_snippet"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_onpage_social"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_admin_bar"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_analytics"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["rank_math_content_ai"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["srm_manage_redirects"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["SPF Manage Analytics"]=>
    bool(false)
    ["administrator"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["editor"]=>
    bool(true)
  }
  ["filter"]=>
  NULL
  ["site_id":"WP_User":private]=>
  int(1)
}

Kicking up to top. Maybe someone with experience can answer re marble (I would like to know the same), and concrete joint filler.