Foundation Wateproofing

Happy to say that medium speed was the right approach.  We created a positive pitch in new concrete away from the house about 8′ from foundation wall.  Installed a 12′ long drain at end of pitch, covered with grill (with bricks on top to blend w/our patio).  Got the neighbors to repair their downspout and pull their roof drain away from the house, also by 8′ to small open hole in their yard. Replaced our sump pump motor et voila, no repeat screenings of Amityville Horror c/u on foundation wall.  Last night was really a test.  And we passed.  Spent less than 3K.  Woot.

iametis

in Brownstoner Renovation 13 years ago

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iametis | 13 years and 9 months ago

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Can the forum recommend a contractor for wet foundation in basement — need to address the following items and determine if we are addressing the problem w/overkill or just the right amount of finesse. 

Excavate 10???x20??? area of foundation wall
Clean foundation wall clean of debris
Install trowel on thoro coat layer to stone foundation wall
Install water proofing layer with 6mil poly and a layer of insulation board
One layer of dry lock with 8??? returns to inside wallNew 4??? pipe leader outside of house run into house to existing sanitary lineConcrete pads on both sides of house removed and reinstalled with positive pitchInstall new 20???x10??? brick patio over 4??? concrete base

with thanks,

callalily | 13 years and 9 months ago

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Who recommended this approach? Has an engineer looked at the basement? I wouldn’t rush into excavating anything — very dangerous, you could cause the building to collapse. You must have a permit from the city to perform this work.

FWIW, we had three engineers look at our building and every one of them suggested merely re-doing the outside cement to slope away from the foundation to solve a leak problem. No mention was made of waterproofing a wall. Depends on what kind of wall you have. We have a rubble foundation. It’s porous by nature. I can’t imagine trying to waterproof it, though I suppose people do.

haiderbk | 13 years and 9 months ago

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call millad at 718-669-8305\. they are general contractor who did my house

masterbuilder | 13 years and 9 months ago

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On a project completed this year in a rowhouse that had bad flooding problems associated with the rear roof drain area, we pitched a small concrete pad away from the house, about 4′ wide along the back length.  In the pad the plumber set a yard drain that runs to the roof drain (we actually thought this drain was overkill but it had been called out by the architect).  And the cracked roof drain pipe was repaired by the home owner using a large rubber gasket.  They had to hire someone to snake the drains, since during large storms this was causing water to back up past the cracked pipe to where the metal roof drain connects.

End of story from my understanding.  Total cost was under $2000.

iametis | 13 years and 8 months ago

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The foundation contractor is Rob Drexler from Drexler Corporation; tel. 516 292-8420, drexlercorp@aol.com.  Rob is definitively the excavation expert and I had no qualms about his experience and professional standing – you can check out his long list of clients for major commercial projects via his website: http://drexlercorp.net/commercial.html.  

As we are yet not sure of our scope of work for keeping the basement foundation dry, I have also met Nick Biris from Quality 1st  Basement Systems, www.quality1stbasementsystems.com; Nick is @ 917-412-6708\. Anyone familiar with this approach – using 20-mil plastic covering over foundation wall and a sub-floor drainage system along the perimeter of the floor which basically pipes into a very heavy duty sump pump along w/a powerful de-humidifier —- would love to hear from the forum regarding experience w/this approach.  

We will use the positive pitch concrete and take care of the drain pipe as this makes the most sense now that our house is under renovation.  Still circling the right approach –

with thanks, Liz