Oil to Gas Conversion: Questions
I hope answers to these questions, from Master Plumber and others on this forum, could guide us and anyone else considering an oil to gas conversion. We’re looking at such a conversion this spring for the steam-heat system in our 1914 attached, single-family brick house . 1) How does a plumber determine the size of…
I hope answers to these questions, from Master Plumber and others on this forum, could guide us and anyone else considering an oil to gas conversion.
We’re looking at such a conversion this spring for the steam-heat system in our 1914 attached, single-family brick house .
1) How does a plumber determine the size of the gas furnace needed? What should I expect them to check during a visit to provide an estimate?
2) How does a plumber determine if a chimney liner is needed with a new furnace? If a new liner is needed, should the property owner first contract with a chimney specialist to have this work done?
3) Since the conversion will likely requirement some movement of asbestos covered pipes connected to the existing boiler, should a property owner first contract with an asbestos-abatement specialist to remove the pipe wrapping, before working with a heating contractor?
4) Can the plumbing contractor also remove the un-needed oil tank? Or, again, should an owner contact a separate company for this work after the oil line is disconnected.
5) Should a plumbing contractor be responsible for any necessary permits and/or contact with Keyspan aka National Grid?
6) In this house, the existing oil burner is partially enclosed in a closet constructed of wood-frame and gypsum board. The front of this closet is fully opened, allowing the face plate of the oil burner to be removed for cleaning and maintenance. Am I correct that such an enclosure now violates the NYC building code? Does the owner need to remove this enclosure before contracting with a plumber?
7) How can an oil furnace be enclosed in a basement that may be used in the future as a living area? Does the furnace require specific clearances on ALL sides either for maintenance access and/or building code requirements? Are removable metal screens (such as larger version of radiator covers) an option to enclose the furnace?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
OP here.
CMU: Did I misunderstand your post? Since I will stay with steam, did you intend to write that there are *only* high-efficiency boiler options now on the market? (For example, I’ve looked at all of Burnham’s Energy Star boilers which are all 85%-plus efficiency).
So for the long-term, to safely vent a high-efficiency boiler through my chimney (as opposed to the side wall or rear wall options described by Master Plumber above), I will likely need to reline the chimney.
MP: That’s what you were responding “correct” to?
Correct.
robling, if you intend to stay with steam, afaik there are no high-efficiency options so you’ll have to exhaust thru the chimney and reline if necessary. (MP?)
I use this company:
Evertight Tank Corp.
718-981-1818
They pump out the oil, cut out the fill pipe and cement over it as required by code, and cut out the tank without destroying your house.
Tell them Gateway Plumbing referred you. They don’t advertise and respond well to word-of-mouth work.
What they’ll also do is sell you small amounts of oil if you need it to get through a week or so while your conversion is in progress.
Nobody I know buys your old oil, though. Once it’s in your tank, it’s considered contaminated.
TO: Master Plumber. This additional info is extremely useful (and, yes, `follow-able’).
TO: Eman1234, I’m working with a steam system so hydronic options are out for me.
TO: Bobjohn: Not sure I could calculate exactly how much oil I will use before the end of the heating season to avoid a surplus in the tank before it’s taken out. Not sure if a company engaged to remove the tank would pay for this surplus oil.
And also, I wonder if anyone else has had a tank removed by a company with the credentials cited above by Master Plumber: “Only companies certified, I believe by the DEP, to handle and transport fuel oil can legally drain and remove your tank. This company will also have the authority recognized by the FDNY to certify the tanks and their contents were removed safely in the event of a fire inspection.”
Interesting. so let say if I will go with high efficiency, it will save 10% in fuel comparing to the mid-efficiency. If I pay 2000$/year in for oil right now it means, that I will save $4000 in 20 years. Does it cover the upfront cost. I underspend that oil prices will go up. But then we need to look at the TVM of the upfront costs.
on the same subject: I planned to replace oil boiler this summer. I have 2x250gl oil tanks. Should I stop oil deliveries right now. So I will use up all the oil by the end of heating season and will save on it?
Or whoever removes the oil tank will pay back for the remains of the oil?
thanks
if you have the site conditions, and a hydronic heating system (hot water heat as opposed to steam)you can install numerous high efficiency boilers which will save you money on the back end (operating them over several years ) while more expensive on the front end (installation)…think weil mclain ultra, triangle tube, buderus ,lochnivar, burnham high efficiency, etc.. you should meet with a heating professional who will try to understand your budget and desires..but underline, this only works on a hydronic system…with steam, you have far fewer choices
on the same subject: I planned to replace oil boiler this summer. I have 2x250gl oil tanks. Should I stop oil deliveries right now. So I will use up all the oil by the end of heating season and will save on it?
Or whoever removes the oil tank will pay back for the remains of the oil?
thanks
You’re welcome.
“High efficiency” at this point means 90%-96%, where it used to mean any boiler in the 84%-88% range, which we now call mid-efficiency.
To get the higher ratings, boiler venting has had to be redesigned entirely.
As a result, HE boilers tend to require vent and intake ducts direct to the outside. That makes nearly all of them suitable for closet installations.
Originally, their intended venting design was to pipe them right out a building’s side (or rear or front) wall maintaining up to 5 feet of distance from doors and windows. As popularity increased, the HE boiler market expanded to include installations in the replacement market in major cities and so increased the need for boilers that could tolerate more venting designs.
Now we’ve got options to vent boilers to within one foot of a door or window, so you might not need to line your chimney at all if you can figure out a way to use a cellar or basement wall as a termination point for an HE boiler’s exhaust.
If not, you’ll have to use the chimney as a chase and drop a couple of pipes down it and connect them to your boiler.
And you’re right, expect to pay several thousand dollars for the task.
Fortunately, doing that now sets you up for any future high efficiency equipment.
If you want to use your existing, unaltered chimney, you’ll have to stick with standard efficiency.
The reason is that boiler and water heater exhaust gases that are under 350 degrees contain a corrosive dose of vaporized carbonic acid. Brick and terra cotta chimneys disintegrate when they come in contact with that stuff. The very idea of mid and high efficiency boilers is that they extract heat from the flue gases thereby decreasing the exhaust temperature to that critical point where they need something corrosion resistant to work safely as a flue conduit.
I hope that is all follow-able. (if that’s a word)
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com