Oil to Gas Conversion: Questions
I hope answers to these questions, from Master Plumber and others on this forum, could guide us and anyone else considering an oil to gas conversion. We’re looking at such a conversion this spring for the steam-heat system in our 1914 attached, single-family brick house . 1) How does a plumber determine the size of…
I hope answers to these questions, from Master Plumber and others on this forum, could guide us and anyone else considering an oil to gas conversion.
We’re looking at such a conversion this spring for the steam-heat system in our 1914 attached, single-family brick house .
1) How does a plumber determine the size of the gas furnace needed? What should I expect them to check during a visit to provide an estimate?
2) How does a plumber determine if a chimney liner is needed with a new furnace? If a new liner is needed, should the property owner first contract with a chimney specialist to have this work done?
3) Since the conversion will likely requirement some movement of asbestos covered pipes connected to the existing boiler, should a property owner first contract with an asbestos-abatement specialist to remove the pipe wrapping, before working with a heating contractor?
4) Can the plumbing contractor also remove the un-needed oil tank? Or, again, should an owner contact a separate company for this work after the oil line is disconnected.
5) Should a plumbing contractor be responsible for any necessary permits and/or contact with Keyspan aka National Grid?
6) In this house, the existing oil burner is partially enclosed in a closet constructed of wood-frame and gypsum board. The front of this closet is fully opened, allowing the face plate of the oil burner to be removed for cleaning and maintenance. Am I correct that such an enclosure now violates the NYC building code? Does the owner need to remove this enclosure before contracting with a plumber?
7) How can an oil furnace be enclosed in a basement that may be used in the future as a living area? Does the furnace require specific clearances on ALL sides either for maintenance access and/or building code requirements? Are removable metal screens (such as larger version of radiator covers) an option to enclose the furnace?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
I got 8 estimates recently. Was looking for a package deal – company taking care of everything including tank removal, etc …. so I would only deal with one guy (even if they have to subcontract some of the work, just wanted 1 interlocutor). Cheapest quote was $6200. Most expensive was $18K (from Master P by the way). Most of the estimates came between $6200-$8500.
Hope it helps.
Cheers.
I got 8 estimates recently. Was looking for a package deal – company taking of everything including tank removal, etc …. Cheapest quote was $6200. Most expensive was $18K (from Master P by the way). Most of the estimates came between $6200-$8500.
MP: Again, a very valuable answer to someone trying to figure out all the jigsaw pieces of this oil-to-gas conversion.
Regarding an earlier certification you cited above, would the plumber or the asbestos abatement company file the ACP-5 form certifying there is no asbestos in the work area?
Would a plumber provide guidance on how much asbestos needs to be removed for a safe work area around the new boiler?
For example: a pipe connecting the existing boiler to a radiator might be wrapped in asbestos for its entire length. Does the full length of the wrap need to be removed or only an amount near the connection to the boiler, as directed by the plumber?
The plumber certifies the chimney. It’s a section on the plumber’s permit application, but as a plumber who is well-trained and certified in the area of combustion analysis and carbon monoxide detection, I can tell you that inspecting chimneys and identifying/repairing problems is not what plumbers are good at even though they think they are.
It’s a skill set best left to those who do it every day.
For that reason, I always follow the recommendations of trusted chimney contractors I work with and I’ll certify a chimney unless they tell me it’s in my interest not to.
Master Plumber, since a plumber would handle the DOB paperwork (per your earlier reply above) but the chimney contractor does the chimney inspection, who is responsible for certifying the chimney’s fitness?
Should I expect any plumber to be prepared to coordinate this with a chimney contractor?
For those following this thread,, this earlier post on chimney contractors will be valuable, particularly your observations on the three types of chimney companies.
http://bstoner.wpengine.com/forum/archives/2008/09/a_tale_of_two_c.php#comments
When we purchased our home a few years ago, we had the interior of the chimney inspected (and filmed) by Robb Stasyshyn of Homestead Chimney, a company I chose because of their certification from the National Fire Protection Assn.
I would recommend them and would likely have them do an updated inspection.
Here’s their link:
http://www.homesteadchimney.com/about.html
Would other chimney contractors often cited on this forum, Big Apple Chimney or A&A, care to weigh in here on whether they have NFPA certification or not?
No problem.
You’ve got it.
When you convert from oil to natural gas, as part of the DOB filing, you’ll need to certify the chimney’s fitness for use in the application.
The exhaust of an oil boiler is very different from that of a gas boiler (different moisture content, soot sticks to the walls with oil, gas dries it out and the stuff can fall in and block the flue) and so a smart thing to do is have your old chimney thoroughly cleaned and inspected near the time of the conversion.
A smart plvmber will let a good chimney contractor take care of all that and hold him to his evaluation.
Again, it’s just the smart way to do it.
No problem.
You’ve got it.
When you convert from oil to natural gas, as part of the DOB filing, you’ll need to certify the chimney’s fitness for use in the application.
The exhaust of an oil boiler is very different from that of a gas boiler (different moisture content, soot sticks to the walls with oil, gas dries it out and the stuff can fall in and block the flue) and so a smart thing to do is have your old chimney thoroughly cleaned and inspected near the time of the conversion.
A smart plvmber will let a good chimney contractor take care of all that and hold him to his evaluation.
Again, it’s just the smart way to do it.
Master Plumber, at the risk of wearing out my welcome in this thread, may I pursue this a bit further for all who turn to this forum with oil to steam conversion questions:
You had noted above: “If you want to use your existing, unaltered chimney, you’ll have to stick with standard efficiency.”
If I understand your subsequent 10:22 post, I also need to stick with standard efficiency for a steam system because “there are no high or even mid-efficiency steam boilers on the market.”
And so my masonry chimney (terra cotta-lined) would not face the same corrosive vapors as it would from a high-efficiency boiler.
But I still need to confirm with a chimney company that my masonry chimney is in good shape, and whether or not I should proceed with the lining, before proceeding with the conversion
So, MP, do I have that straight now?
Thanks again
No. What cmu is correctly saying is that there are no high or even mid-efficiency steam boilers on the market.
If your brick chimney is in good shape and can handle the boiler you install, then you’re done.
If not, you’ll have to reline it.
Your only other option with steam is a power vented boiler that also vents out a side wall but burns at the same efficiency.