Old Hands on the Restaurant Scene Face a New Brooklyn
The Times profiles Brooklyn restaurateurs Alan Harding and Jim Mamary, who are credited with trailblazing fine dining on Smith Street but are also the subject of backlash in Carroll Gardens and Boerum Hill. Harding and Mamary opened Patois on Smith in 1997, back when the rent for the space was $900 and the street, according…
The Times profiles Brooklyn restaurateurs Alan Harding and Jim Mamary, who are credited with trailblazing fine dining on Smith Street but are also the subject of backlash in Carroll Gardens and Boerum Hill. Harding and Mamary opened Patois on Smith in 1997, back when the rent for the space was $900 and the street, according to Mamary, was “a horror show.” After that, the pair went on to open more than a dozen restaurants and bars, many on Smith, like Gowanus Yacht Club and Trout, and some in other neighborhoods, like Williamsburg’s Sweetwater and Prospect-Lefferts Gardens’ Cafe Enduro. The duo’s creations are now scorned by “Brooklynites who’ve come to see Harding-Mamary creations as a chain, where you can get it venti in a ramekin with crème fraîche or slushed with guava and salt on the rim,” and their decision to open an oyster bar on Hoyt Street next to their restaurant Black Mountain Wine Bar stirred significant local opposition. Nowadays the two are looking for new/cheap/not-completely-gentrified neighborhoods to grow their small empire, like Ditmas Park, where they recently opened Pomme de Terre. Mamary says you need to grab every space that becomes available,” in on-the-brink areas, “or somebody else moves in. It’s like Coke and Pepsi.” The two are also eying Crown Heights and Staten Island.
Restless Pioneers, Seeding Brooklyn [NY Times]
Photo by R.S. Guskind.
I prefer the mini-empire of Stinky Brooklyn, Smith and Vine, and Jake’s Walk. Mainly because they seem to care more about keeping up the quality. I’ve had some decent meals at Patois, but it seems to be that Alan and Jim have tendency to lose interest (as mentioned in the article) and places that start off well go downhill. Schnack is a good example: was fun and tasty when it opened, ended up with crappy food and crappier service.
1:05=Harding/Mamary
The old Food Co-op space on Cortelyou Road is available. They should look into opening a place there. I for one would welcome them out in this neck of the woods.
I lived just off Smith Street in the 90’s and the posters who say it wasn’t that bad don’t really have a clue. It may not have been the “Wild West”, but there were a number of blocks between Bergen and Sackett that were completely desolate at night, and many vacant storefronts. I’m a woman, and I didn’t walk down those blocks myself after dark — I stuck to Court St. even if it was out of the way.
By the way, the first restaurant I remember opening there was Sur, an Argentinian steakhouse — we all thought it was so odd to have a “fancy” restaurant in what seemed the middle of nowhere. Patois may have opened around the same time, but I had one visit with really snotty service (and I’m a very nice customer) and never went back.
12:46
Admit it, you don’t spend money at restaurants and if you did, you weren’t going to their places anyway. It’s really easy to boycott some business that you never went to anyway!
I think alot of people are just jealous that these two are successful , they get to do what they want with their lives, choose their own hours, and be creative at what they do (yes creative, wether its choosing the style of decor, the advertising, or the menu). Most naysayers are working hard making more money for their bosses than themselves, doing things they dont like, while still ending up eating at these places, and grumbling under their food filled breath that they suck (if they did suck to the majority, why would they even be writing about the mini empire they have created?) jealous people out there, wish they could own even one restaurant, but wouldnt have the skill to draw up their own menu, jealous consumers, sitting at their desks at this moment, hoping their boss doesnt catch them bitching on a neighborhood blog on “their time”.
“Think about it — maybe if you behave a bit better toward others, your life would improve.”
You sound like Mr. Rogers.
Die of joy for an oyster bar? Talk about needing a life!!! See, actually, you’ll die of lack of sleep, as the drunken patrons spill out until all hours of the night. It’s not an oyster bar… IT’S A BAR!!! Those owners are sleazy! It’s great to know what they own so we can boycott them all!!! THanks NYTimes… finally some brooklyn info we can use!
People are always complaining about neighborhoods because they have no ammenities. Well these two brought the most popular type of ammenities to CH, CG & BH or BO-CO-CA, making those areas even more attractive to more people. I bet that the residents who oppose them are not complaining about how these places have improved their property values.
The Mamary has done well in Ditmas Park where the rents are still reasonable. The dynamic duo should continue down the ‘Q’ train line into Midwood, Sheepheads Bay and Coney Island. There is definitely life (and money) south of Prospect Park.