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Is the mystique of Brooklyn finally getting squelched? Not long after Brian Williams poked fun at the New York Time’s obsession with Brooklyn, food writer Mimi Sheraton shares these choice words with Capital New York:

I’m from Brooklyn, but it would take a lot to get me there for dinner. When Lundy’s was Lundy’s, I’d be there. When Gargiulo’s was Gargiulo’s, I went. I certainly went to Gage and Tollner. There were one-of-a-kind things there, but so far anywhere I’ve been to there has not been worth the trip from Manhattan. I haven’t been to Al di la, because you have to wait on line, and I’m not going to Brooklyn to wait on line. Not when there are 10 good Italian restaurants in Greenwich Village. The Times has certainly been very exaggerated in its Brooklyn coverage, because most of them live there. They begin to see it as being better than it is because it’s so close to them. I would go to Brooklyn if it were exceptional.

Chow Time: Mimi Sheraton on What’s Changed Since Lutece [Capital via Eater NY]
Photo by kathyylchan


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  1. Anyone who publicly questions a successor the way she does – red flag. Sam Sifton may be about the “theater” of dining, which I don’t feel is the case, but the article which is half a recap of 1970s dining (yawn) is patently disingenuous.

    If she had made the point that there is no Gage and Tollner-esque giant left, ok, fine, I agree.

    I read the Dining section of the Times each Wednesday and scan for Brooklyn locales, and find only a few each week. that alone refutes her point in my mind.

  2. Honestly, who can blame Mimi for not having a reason to come to Brooklyn. Outside of work, I can’t remember the last time I dined out in Manhattan. Once I get to Brooklyn on Fridays after work, I rarely see Manhattan until Monday at 8am.

  3. Most of Brooklyn is certainly rough around the edges, but if you take the hype out of most things New York, you’re left with an expensive, overcrowded mishmash of a city that people would pay to avoid. In other words, it would be 1980 again.

  4. Long time reader first time poster. While I can see BriWi’s point about the NY times over hyping BK I do think there is merit to a lot of the hype. BK is a place for experimentation for a lot of people. Chefs and small business owners can open in BK and take many more chances than they can in Manhattan. The rents are lower and you have a little more time to develop a customer base and try different things. Think No. 7 in Ft Green. Their chef Tyler combines flavors in a way that is unusual and somewhat intimidating. Once you eat there a few times and trust his skills, it’s fantastic. I think that this is a driving force behind what BK has and is becoming for people. While MiMi may bash Al Di La saying she doesn’t want to “wait on” line… there is a reason for that. The food is amazing. I’ve been going there for about 5 years now (ok so I haven’t been here as long as you, yes you’re cooler) and every single time I go, I never have to have the same thing. The daily specials are numerous and always delicious. I think you’d be hard pressed to find another restaurant that is able to execute so many different dishes so frequently with such skill. I think that’s what sets them apart from any of those 10 good Italian places in the village. The bottom line is, if you love BK, and love the things that your neighbors are doing, support them. Wait in line for 20 minutes, have a cocktail and enjoy yourself.

  5. Easy for her to complain about waiting in line at Brooklyn restaurants when she probably just drops her name to the reservationists and gets last minute reservations at all the good Manhattan spots.

    For the rest of us commonfolk, we have to book a reservation at Marea or whatever 30 days in advance.

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BFC Partners, the developer of the new building at 150 Myrtle Avenue (and a Brownstoner advertiser as of today), is courting Apple to locate its first Brooklyn store on the ground floor, said partner Joseph Ferrara. The tower is expected to be finished Spring 2009. “Aesthetically, I think our building really does fit their design guidelines,” he said, adding that he just put a call out to the company but hasn’t heard a response. Otherwise, Ferrara is thinking some type of organic market and deli. CRES Chief Executive Chris Havens said Apple is having a hard time finding the perfect Brooklyn location, not wanting to make its grand entrance in the average shopping mall cubby. What do you think, would Toren (rendered out the wazoo above) make a suitable throne?
SOM-designed Toren About to Hit the Market [Brownstoner]


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