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ONE of the most fervently discussed new restaurants of the year is the reincarnation of a seedy biker-bar offshoot that served fried chicken and pulled pork until it suddenly closed up shop in 2008, just one step ahead of the Department of Health.
Further proof, if any was needed, that food-focused New Yorkers are eager to get down and dirty in pursuit of a thrill.
The new Pies ‘N’ Thighs emerged in March, still within earshot of the rumbling Williamsburg Bridge, but cleaned up and respectable in most other ways. If the old space was the answer to a dive-bar drunkard’s prayer, the current one is simply a Brooklynite’s imaginary version of a meat-and-three in the South.
But how are the thighs? As crunchy and golden as ever, if memory serves. New recruits and returning veterans alike should, at least on a first visit, take the restaurant’s name as a complete menu. On a second tour of duty, or with a friend along for reinforcements, one could see a little more of the country.
Further proof, if any was needed, that food-focused New Yorkers are eager to get down and dirty in pursuit of a thrill.
The new Pies ‘N’ Thighs emerged in March, still within earshot of the rumbling Williamsburg Bridge, but cleaned up and respectable in most other ways. If the old space was the answer to a dive-bar drunkard’s prayer, the current one is simply a Brooklynite’s imaginary version of a meat-and-three in the South.
But how are the thighs? As crunchy and golden as ever, if memory serves. New recruits and returning veterans alike should, at least on a first visit, take the restaurant’s name as a complete menu. On a second tour of duty, or with a friend along for reinforcements, one could see a little more of the country.
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