Signature Dish: Bunker

The Spot: Bunker, 46-63 Metropolitan Avenue, Ridgewood.

The Deal: Sometimes, as they say, the best-laid plans just go awry. The original plan for the rather industrial location on Metropolitan was for a fish distribution company called Fish & Ship. Then Hurricane Sandy flooded the space. Then a business partner, and the fish connection, had to back out. So what to do with this address that TK Adam refers to as “the curse and the blessing”?

Fortunately Jimmy Tu, the executive chef, and Jacky Tu, the sous chef, had been sitting on an idea: “Quality Vietnamese food,” says Adam. “The exotic yet accessible flavors of Vietnam, the street food that they loved, but elevated with quality ingredients. Bunker was born out of belief and out of survival instinct.”

But where new ideas and delicious food goes, attention soon follows. Bunker first drew the attention of locals, and then the food blogs and then The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, New York Magazine, The Food Network and others.

“Through hard work, perseverance, sacrifice, and just plain luck, Bunker has been a destination spot for the better part of a year now,” Adam says. “We have a loyal, ever-expanding customer base willing to trek from all over to a middle-of-nowhere restaurant with nothing to entertain them within miles as they tough out torturous wait times. And for that, we are so grateful and so thankful.”

Read about the Signature Dish after the jump…

The Dish: For novices and first-timers, Chef Tu recommends the Traditional Banh Xeo, an ultra-crispy Vietnamese crepe with shrimp and Heritage bacon. “Bean sprouts stuffed in the middle for added crunch and contrast. Fresh Herbs (shiso, cilantro, basil) on the side to help add more complexity. Red-leaf lettuce to wrap it in. And, of course, our house sauce (an anchovy-based sauce with garlic and chilies) bringing the sweet-sour funk,” says Adam.

Bold home chefs can attempt to re-create the dish at home after the recipe was published in Lucky Peach.

“I was curious to hear how our customers would fare making it themselves,” says Adam. “Not one has told me they’ve made one as delicious as the one we have here, and most of the time they say the part they can’t quite seem to execute is the crunchy exterior. So they come back to have one.”