boiler room
The heating season is right around the corner. The time is now to finish those insulation projects you started and seal or replace drafty windows and door frames. Cool weather comes quickly and unexpectedly so know how to start your boiler and learn the warning signs of potential problems with a quick visual inspection that you can do at any time.

Raise a heating thermostat and go to the boiler. Take a look at the floor around it. Is there any moisture on the ground? If so, try to determine if it is from water or oil. Most oil line repairs should be done by your supplier’s service technicians and the system should be fired and bled, as necessary, after the repair is made. Water leaks are often best handled by a qualified plumbing or plumbing and heating company and your oil or gas supplier may require you to call one of your choosing, so long as they are properly licensed.

Look around your boiler for rust. It’s true that some degree of rust is normal considering a boiler is a big chunk of metal sitting in a damp cellar, but anything that stands out is probably not normal. Rust on the sides of a boiler or on piping is usually a sign of a slow water leak. Rust on top of a boiler or anywhere near the flue piping is often a sign of inadequate venting. Either way, it may be worth a second look or at least a watchful eye over the next couple of weeks before service and repair companies get slammed with start-up calls in October.

Listen for any pumps or motors that may sound strained or rattling excessively. They may require repair or replacement… or a simple drop or two of oil. This is something you can easily do yourself. At a good plumbing supply store in your area, ask for a container of circulator oil. It should cost less than ten dollars and last for the rest of the life of your home. Pumps and motors that require field-lubricating only need two or three drops of oil per season in use. No home should be without pump oil. While we’re at it, heed this warning: DO NOT USE 3-in-1! General purpose oil is too thin and adding even a small amount will contaminate the good oil that’s in the pump and guarantee system failure. Using the wrong oil is NOT always better than using no oil.

If you smell gas around the boiler, turn off the power switch and open a door or window nearby. You’ve got a decision to make here: If you feel the odor of natural gas is strong and that danger is imminent call your gas supplier and follow the telephone prompts to report an emergency. More than likely, Keyspan will turn off and lock your gas service at that point. That is the single safest course of action and that’s why it is done. It will take a licensed plumber to make all necessary repairs and some filing and permit fees to bring the system into compliance and reactivate the service. Expect this process to take at least several days to complete. You could also decide to call a licensed plumber and have the repairs made without having the utility or building department intervene. If you’re going to do this, get a confirmation from a reputable plumbing company that they will dispatch a repair technician immediately.

— John Cataneo, President of Gateway Plumbing


What's Your Take? Leave a Comment

  1. My boiler is a Mueller Climatrol — 40 to 50 years old would be my guess. Four-story brownstone with hot water/radiator heat.

    No troubles with it, although it is obviously old. It’s about the size of a small refrigerator, so I’m assuming it’s hardly the cheapest or most efficient to operate. My question: Would it be more cost-effective to replace it now, or keep using it until it quits? How long would it likely take to recoup the cost of replacement in terms of added efficiency?

  2. Relatedly, can anyone recommend someone that can build simple, attractive radiator covers, and lots of ‘em Any tips would be much appreciated.

  3. We are eagerly awaiting the official turn on of the brand spanking new gas heating system. (converted from a aging oil boiler this summer) The new gas hot water heater has been providing endless supply of hot water and hoping the gas heat will be both comfortable and not break the bank this winter.

  4. I have a question that is semi-related to the topic. On some of my radiators, the 20 or so layers of paint are all peeling off. Can I get my radiator’s sandblasted so I can repaint them to look nice? Where could I bring them to get sandblasted?

  5. I know that hot air systems require less maintainance than steam or hot water, but a few tips for those of us who are radiator-less would be nice.

    BTW Brenda, my cat LOVES to sleep on top of hot air registers, so if we ever decide to sell him for meat, he’s already half done 🙂