Wood Kitchen Cabinet - shelf sagging

So maybe this. Maybe make a shelf out of pine stair tread. A little funny to finish but it can be done and over 36″ SHOULD not bend with changes in conditions. Weight won’t do it, but a remote chance environmental conditions might. Could wind a little over time.

Years back we used to be able to get all sorts of really nice, stable pine that would hold stuff. This stuff we have today is junk which is why birch ply, capped with cleats is the way to go.

The issue here even for someone talented will be matching the finish. Someone who sprays this stuff every day and tints and primes, etc will do this in no time but finding someone to do one little thing is tough.

That’s why op should put the screws to the contractor. It hurts, but if we want to do this work, we have to fix our screw ups.

stevecym

in Bath & Kitchen 3 years and 7 months ago

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byznocukbqmao | 3 years and 7 months ago

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We just had new wood kitchen cabinets installed with adjustable shelves that mount on top of four flat pins at each corner. The cabinets are fully open, no center stile, with shelves that are either 30″ wide or 36″ wide. We are putting our kitchen back together and noticed the center of the shelf starts to sag ever so slightly after placing more than 8 drinking glasses/coffee mugs on top of it. After doing some online research, I believe this is the downside to having adjustable shelves. The only reasonable solution I found that still allows flexibility for repositioning of the shelves is to add an aluminum shelf stiffener. However this would not match the cabinet finish/decor. I could also add a strip of wood to the front but again, it would not look right. I typically like to keep like items together but may end up having to sprinkle my glasses/mugs/heavier pieces throughout all available shelves. I appreciate any suggestions in providing additional support to the shelves without destroying the beauty of the new cabinets. I have attached photos of the cabinet, shelf /support pins and wood thickness of shelf. Note in one of the pictures, the glasses on the bottom shelf were originally on the middle shelf and caused the center to sag slightly. Thanks for your suggestions! [WIN_20211008_00_36_29_Pro](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:YaCL:win_20211008_00_36_29_pro.jpg.jpg) [WIN_20211008_00_36_15_Pro](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:DKuX:win_20211008_00_36_15_pro.jpg.jpg) [WIN_20211008_00_35_53_Pro](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:Q363:win_20211008_00_35_53_pro.jpg.jpg) [WIN_20211008_00_37_12_Pro](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:b5s0:win_20211008_00_37_12_pro.jpg.jpg)

stevecym | 3 years and 7 months ago

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If that were solid, real wood, it would probably hold a few glasses at that span. Books, no.

Cleats do not look bad applied to the front and back and you already have some heavy trim anyway. I think I would start by looking at what this is made out of and if it is some kind of composite, toss it and begin anew. Even if you use solid wood, you may need the cleats on the front and back but they only need to be 1.25″ if properly bonded to 3/4″ stock or even birch ply. I used to build bookcases with 36″ plus wide shelves with cleats and once stood on one to show a customer how stiff the were, no deflection.

Who designed this shelf and made it up? Did the manufacturer or the installer? Did they warn you that this might happen? If you asked for this and they did not warn you that this might happen, it is on them. I would call them and tell them and do not let them tell you that you told them to do it; they are the pros and if it cannot be done in a professional manner their job is to advise you and offer alternatives. A properly made shelf with cleats would hav e cost more anyway so offer them something to make a proper shelf and finish it properly.

The cleats should be rabbeted out and should not only sit on the face of the shelf but should go under it by 1/4″ – that will add a lot of strength. Be warned; you may have to move the shelf supports a little.

stevecym | 3 years and 7 months ago

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If you want to try to keep the cleats narrow, you can use heavier stock, say 5/4″, and cut the face to a width (height) of say 1 1/8 perhaps less. You will still need it to overlay the bottom by 1/4″ but might push the overlay back. Understand that this kind of shelf construction is dependent on not only the strength of the pieces of wood but the combined strength of the wood and glue all working together so whoever does this has to cut the joint carefully (tight) and use plenty of glue.

I am not putting myself forth to do this. Your cabinet person will know exactly what I am talking about if they are worth their salt.

Arkady | 3 years and 7 months ago

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I have bookshelves built that way & spanning that distance but using real, sturdy lumber so I agree you might just want to get heftier shelving material.

stevecym | 3 years and 7 months ago

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I was sorry to make this so complicated for op, but done right, these do not have to become massive, blocky, chunks of wood.

OP if you do not understand what I am saying, write back and I will draw a side view or find a drawing to post. I make mine a little different than what I was taught but I think mine are better.

RobertGMarvin

in Bath & Kitchen 3 years and 7 months ago

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Would it be possible to reinforce the existing shelves with a board underneath? Placed a few inches from the edge it wouldn’t be very noticeable.

stevecym | 3 years and 7 months ago

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I would be afraid that two of the same might bend together. Perhaps if laminated with glue it would stiffen it a bit. But if I were doing this for pay, I would not chance it. Professionally cleats are the only way to go as the will stiffen the wood from simple instability that can occur anyway, never mind weight.

RobertGMarvin

in Bath & Kitchen 3 years and 7 months ago

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I realize a pro wouldn’t do what I suggested Steve. . It’s the kind of amateurish DIY repair I’d do in my own house and it would probably work. That being said I haven’t had to do anything like that. In the mid-80s the late Bill Sykes, a Clinton Hill “brownstoner” guru re configured my 1899 kitchen cabinet, installing shelves supported. like those the OP described. He used old shelves that had been left in my house and they never bent under the weight of heavy dishes. The OP’s cabinet maker must have used really inferior materials.