Grout or caulk between tub and tiles

Agree with the caulk camp. As a rule, whenever two surfaces meet (ie- wall/tub, or the interior vertical corner of a shower) caulk should be used due to its flexibility and the subsequent movement of the two surfaces. They do make a flexible grout caulk and have many colors to match your grout. I used one that was a charcoal color recently and it was virtually undetectable in terms of color difference. I have also had tubs/showers where the seam between the body of the tub/shower and wall were grouted and it eventually and inevitably does crack.

nalusurf

in Bath & Kitchen 9 years and 8 months ago

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CHM | 13 years and 3 months ago

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The caulk/grout between our bathtub and wall tiles has turned black with mold.  I want to regrout and think we should just use grout with a sealer.  But, I’ve heard it’s better to use caulk.  We currently have a layer of caulk over the grout . . . . We don’t have time to dry that area after each shower.

marie-helene | 13 years and 3 months ago

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Count me in the grout camp!  I’ve had nothing but bad luck with silicone caulk: it always seems to get moldy after a few months, no matter what product/technique I use.  I think your original idea is the best: scrape everything off, rub with denatured alcohol, let dry, a neat layer of grout, then seal after it’s cured.

brucef | 13 years and 3 months ago

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If any of you out there are commissioning new tile work, be sure to specify the special tub/tile Schluter trim, which goes behind the tile and over the tub. The reason for using silicone caulk rather than grout on any joint between planes, (wall to wall, wal to floor, tub to tile), has to do with preventing tile damage due to movement of the surfaces. Some caulks are better than others, some say contain mildewcide, but basically caulk inthat location requires replacement yearly, depending on the humidity of the tub area. Cut out all the caulk (I use a mat knife and single edge razor in a windshield scraper) and put a new bead. I use a forming tool immediately after with a paper towel wet with alcohol. The trick is knowing that the silicone will tack up quickly, and if your first attempt at smoothing isn’t good enough, every later attempt will make it worse. Better to wait a day, cut i back out with an Exacto knife, and recaulk.

BobMarvin | 13 years and 3 months ago

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If the black  mold is the only problem it could easily be removed with a brush and a 1:2  solution of bleach and water.

BHS | 13 years and 3 months ago

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brucef is correct. the reason to use the caulk is that it is flexible. When you step in the tub to shower or fill the bath with water, the weight pulls the tub slightly down away from the tile. Grout will crack.

totalhousehold | 13 years and 3 months ago

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I have to agree with bobmarvin – if it’s just mold, it might be worth looking at how you clean your tub rather than invest in recaulking/regrounting. I had a similar problem around my tub a few years ago – thought the mold/mildew was too set in to remove but figured I’d try a stronger bristle brush and a cleaner specific for mold & mildew.  2 years later, my tub is still white.

cm | 13 years and 3 months ago

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One other tip … re-caulk with the tub full of water.

greenmountain | 13 years and 3 months ago

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Didn’t anybody study biology here? You don’t have food for the mold on your side of the tub; you just have air and water.  Inside the wall you should not have water; you should have only air and food.  You need all three to have mold.  So inside the wall, you have water too.  How did the water get inside your wall?  It is seeping through the grout lines, wherever, and whenever the grout gets wet.  (You or your neighbors could also have plumbing or window leaks, but never mind that now.)  Grout is porous.  Cleaning the mold, or replacing caulk or grout will not stop the mold, because it is growing from the inside.  It is like you are mowing the lawn; it grows back.  Schluter is good, but Bruce mentioned the wrong product.  A waterproof membrane (Schlulter Kerdi is a good one) would have prevented mold, if installed between the substrate and the tile (all the way up and around your tub surround).  I am sorry I have no advice other than retile with a waterproof membrane in all wet areas.  Save your money and energy.  Stop with the re-grout and caulk already. Self serving?  Sure, but I don’t need your particular job.  This problem is common enough to keep renovators like me busy and keep the re-grouters and caulkers busy too.  Please, serious inquiries only.  I am in the directory under shower stalls.

466dad | 13 years and 3 months ago

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I’d say silicone caulking. I found a great how to video. The two key tips were, after cleaning but before putting the new caulk down 1) put masking tape on either side of the bead, 2) after caulking, put some alcohol on your thumb,and push down on the caulk smoothing it into the corner. After a bit take up up tape it it’ll look beautiful.

brooklynbilt | 13 years and 3 months ago

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The expansion and contraction may not be caused by weight in the tub.  I’d blame seasonal wood movement.  In the summer, wood absorbs moisture from the humid air and expands.  In the winter is dries out and shrinks.  This movement is manifest throughout your home–wood flooring gaps change seasonally, crown molding miters open, etc. etc.  If your tub is framed with wood studs (or your floor, for that matter), the gap between tub and tile will open and close seasonally.  Grout will not expand and thus is not a good option (even though it is more mold resistant).  Go with caulk.