5x7 bathroom options

I’m buying a house with a typical row house 5’x7’4″ bathroom which we will renovate. Right now the tub is a built-in 5′ at the far end of the room, sandwiched between the walls. We would love to put in a larger tub, either 5’6″ or 6′. I found this floor plan from the 1908 book “Two Family and Twin Houses” which depicts a very similar bathroom with the tub arranged lengthwise. Has anyone done this with their small bathroom? If that doesn’t work, we’d like a 5′ claw-foot tub, but we are unsure if a 5′ claw foot tub will fit in a 5′ wide room. Is 5′ the interior or exterior measurement?

chemosphere

in Bath & Kitchen 11 years ago

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cate | 11 years ago

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All the original bathrooms I’ve ever seen had a claw foot tub on the long wall, just like in this diagram. I’d bet that’s where it was originally. This configuration sometimes makes for a narrower room than we are used to, but it seems to work. A claw foot tub also visually appears to take up less space than a tile-in tub because there is air under it. We have a 4 x 6 bathroom with a claw foot tub on the long wall. If you are working with an architect, consult them about standard clearances between fixtures, which is important. (Aisles should be about three feet wide, for example.) Re the shower curtain, you can use three overlapping ones or buy one very long one made for claw foot tubs and overlap the ends. We do and it isn’t a problem at all. As for fitting a small tub into the short end of the bathroom, all you need to do is measure the room and the tub. But think about where the plumbing will go. It’s usually exposed with a claw foot and will take up room outside the walls and outside the tub coming up at the head or foot of the tub. You can check out various configurations online at Vintage Tub and Bath.

ventilated | 11 years ago

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brucef described a way to pick up some space (sometimes a surprising amount once existing wall is taken down). Also, consider a deeper, wider tub, for example a 60″ x 32″ x 24″ Deep Soaking Bathtub. But if you’ve got small children, the depth can be a problem, or even a hazard.

GreenThinker | 11 years ago

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Thats a lot of joists to notch for the plumbing. You’re always better off having the bath, sink, and toilet drains in line between joists. Also, consider bathroom storage; it’s a must have for any comfortable bathroom. 5 foot alcove bathtub would work best in your situation.

rastermon | 11 years ago

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ADA doesn’t apply to an owner occupied 2 family home. Also if its renovated under 1968 or pre 1968 code, why would clearance requirements in the current code apply?

brucef | 11 years ago

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Only if the job is filed.

chemosphere | 11 years ago

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Thanks for the replies. The door is in the same place as depicted on the floor plan. The toilet is going to be in the same place it is now. Right now, looking in the door, the order is from left to right, toilet, sink, tub. Basically I’m considering swapping the tub and the sink. I agree about the curtain around the tub problem. It’s a two family, so I don’t have to deal with ADA clearances for my own bathroom, right?

daveinbedstuy | 11 years ago

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A new bathroom in any home needs to meet the more onerous ADA clearances???? With the requisite bars and everything??? Ridiculous.

brucef | 11 years ago

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Ditto on not getting approved without ADA clearances. If you are gutting the room, you can pick up an inch or two by clever footwork, but that’s it. The five foot tub goes to the stud wall, not to the finish surface. In other words, the backerbaord and tile die on the tub.

daveinbedstuy | 11 years ago

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If you are not enlarging the room, you won’t have enough space for either the toilet or the sink on an end unless, as in that photo, the door is in the middle of the long side and both the toilet and sink are at either ends facing inward. It won’t work if you have to pull permits as the clearances won’t be wide enough for the toilet. Don’t get a clawfoot if this is your only shower space. Dealing with the shower curtain so it’s sealed every time you get in gets old and tiring.