Want to make Decorative Fireplaces Functional - Cost ? Estimates?
Looking to make a fireplace that is decorative into functional in Cobble Hill. Any ideas on a cost? There are 2 per floor, would be interested in an idea on one or per floor cost if possible. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
fitzhume
in Insurance 12 years and 7 months ago
7
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7 replies
joeo | 12 years and 7 months ago
We installed an Avalon Rainier wood burning stove in what was once a victorian coal fireplace that hadnt been used since the 1940s. The Chimney needed some work both at the base and in the attic. Also, the NYC code requires an insulated lining, so you need to account for that in sizing the flue width. All in all it cost close to $5K including the stove, hearth, chimney work, and liner. But a lot tree guys supply free green wood, that I chop and split for the following year. The stove is small and fits into a victorian arch coal box opening but kicks out about 70000 BTUs and can heat most of the house. I expect to break even in 4 or 5 winters as I save money on gas.
daveinbedstuy | 12 years and 7 months ago
But none of us have answered your question on costs. Eaich flue and hearth is different. If you search past posts here there have been some recommendations from others on people thy have used and either liked or disliked….. Check the Archive too
pigthree | 12 years and 7 months ago
Morso wood burning stove. Burn wood, the only sustainable fuel sorce. Much cheaper than buring gas. Stainless steel liner in existing flue. If a straight run to roof, could DIY. 30ft will cost about $650 in material. Ships directlly to your home. If there is a turn in the flue, you propably want to hire someone to install. 3.5 – 5k.
greenmountain | 12 years and 7 months ago
I install tile and stone hearths, but I am concerned about the newer wood floors installed nearby. Floors from renovations of 20-30 years ago seem to compromise the seperation between combustable house, and fireplace. Wood supports under newer stone or tiled hearths from these renovations have come out burned. With little oxygen, the supports (sleepers) turned to charcoal. In these cases, the masonry under the original hearths was too low, so the new floor installers added wood right up to the “restored” fireplaces. The houses, where I replaced these non-original hearths did not burn down. I guess I don’t get those jobs, you know, rebuilding the whole house after a catastrophic fire. You can find me in the Brownstoner Directory under tile and stone – Green Mountain
brucef | 12 years and 7 months ago
Dave, It took me so long to compose my reply, you beat me to it. Although the non-vented units are legal here in Jersey, I don’t believe they have NYC DOB approval numbers, so can’t be in NYC. there are a hand full of vented that are approved. I believe some of the Empire units are in the list. There is a rigamarole where the manufacturers have to get each individual model approved by NYC.
brucef | 12 years and 7 months ago
There are two separate issues. Any operating fire place will need a fire rated liner all the way up through roof. Historically (since brownstone movement 1960’s on) this was accomplished by installing clay liner sections. Clever technicians could at times lower these, pre-mortared, from the roof, but normally, masons would rip out front of flue all the way through upper floors. Recently, advances in flexible rated steel sleeves allow legal liners to be drawn up or down through existing, but unsafe flues up to roof. If the diameters and layout align, this solves some of the worst of paragraph one, above. Issue number 2 involves the physical dimensions of the firebox. You say Cobble Hill, a neighborhood I am familiar with. House technology from 1840-1860’s did not expect wood burning, which requires a large firebox to create the heat and draft necessary to have the smoke go up the chimney flue, not into your home. Gas or coal based fuels required a much shallower firebox, that won’t suffice for actual wood burning. So the problem of creating a working firebox often comes down to, where do you get the additional depth? You can’t go back, as your neighbor’s party wall is extremely thin (often one brick thick). If you build out into the room 10′, you lose the flat aspect of the flue and any existing mantle. I would recommend instead a gas fireplace. Before you dismiss this suggestion out of hand for its ersatz? suburban shlock, they are much better than in the past. They look like a real wood fire. And they start with the flick of a switch. Best of all they are energy efficient. They immediately heat your home, rather than pump all the heat OUT of your home, which is what a WBF does. The venting requirements are much better, two flexible stainles 2″, or one flexible concentric 4″. And if sized well (there are small/medium/large) they may fit in the existing firebox.
daveinbedstuy | 12 years and 7 months ago
I assume you mean functional for woodburning…a much bigger task than having a gas coals burner. But, if you just want the latter, instal a gas line and get a nice gas unit I get pushback here from people who really don’t know but you can close uo your flue and don’t need to vent those units. The premier fireplace restorer in Philadelphia wa doing my friend’s mansion down there with a few wood burning fireplaces and a few with these gascoals inserts. He closed up all the flues of the gascoal units. he showed with a CO meter, that there was no risk. They are the equivalent to having 2 or 3 burners lit on your stovetop. Plus, they throw a decent amount of heat. A blue burning flame emits practically zero CO.