Stripping Painted Marble Mantel

I recently purchased a townhouse in Clinton Hill and unfortunately the previous owners had painted over the marble mantels and I want to strip the paint off. Has anyone done this in their home and have any tips & tricks they could share? I’ve experimented with both a heat gun (a bit slow and I’m worried about overheating and cracking the marble) and “Multi Strip” chemical stripper which notes marble as an acceptable application on the back (worked, but I’m worried about etching/staining the marble).

I’ve attached photos of the painted mantle and the test section where I’ve gotten down to the stone. There were at least 3 if not 4 layers of paint from what I could tell. The stone looks like it is a white/grey but appears dirty, and I’m not sure if that’s patina from age/paint or damage from the stripper.

Any advice would be much appreciated! Also, if you have recommendations of a professional who does this type of work please let me know.

[Painted Detail](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:Du0b:painteddetail.jpg.jpg) [Test Patch](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:1BdU:testpatch.jpg.jpg) [Multi Strip](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:jP2T:multistrip.jpg.jpg)

badefrancis

in General Discussion 8 years and 5 months ago

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utoeid | 8 years and 4 months ago

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Slopefarm. I think that may be a good idea to send to the new owners of the site. BUT I can say I sometimes tend to go back to old OP’s to see if they found and posted their final solution. The beauty of these old homes is you run into the same issues and it may help another owner or tenant who may happen across the forums to see an older post top up. But a good idea on your part. I think Brownstoner runs the risk of becoming too big and thus miss sight of what it exists for.

BobMarvin | 8 years and 4 months ago

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Thanks utoeid–perhaps I shouldn’t rely on half-remembered information from the ’70s. In any case, I seldom use a heat gun. Truth be told, I virtually never strip anything anymore–little room for “new” furniture, plus I discovered Howard’s Restore a Finish.

Sorry slopefarm, but I still like new answers to pop up and sometimes find them useful. Of course I have no influence whatsoever over the site’s policy, so whatever disagreement we might have is strictly academic.

slopefarm | 8 years and 4 months ago

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I have nothing to add about heat guns, but i do wish to reiterate my (very respectful) disagreement with our dear volunteer moderator, Bob, as well as the new owners of this site. I really think forum posts past a certain age (maybe a week) should not pop to the top of the queue again if someone should unearth them and seek to comment. The OP has most likely moved on after a week and other more recent questions get bumped off the first page.

utoeid | 8 years and 4 months ago

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Hey BobMarvin. Heat guns do burn very hot and the fumes the heat guns release are effectively breaking down the components of the lead based paint. If you go maskless you can smell a very strong, acrid smell. These propellants are dangerous if inhaled over time. You can develop lung problems, as well as other other serious health issues because our bodies are just not meant to process the toxicity. Then if you used a scraper to slide the melting lead paint off, the paint hardens and crumbles after a time and that is where you get the lead dust. If you have kids or grandkids and they crawl around, that can easily get that on hands or clothing and you can harm them that way. If you look at the stats in BedStuy and the South Bronx, they are the 2 highest areas IN THE COUNTRY with lead paint related poisoning. Lead paint poisoning is shown to inhibit brain development in young children.

I am not saying never use a heat gun but taking precautions like coveri ng the floor, using ventilator masks (not paper or cotton masks), and working in a well ventilated area. Or hire it out.

BobMarvin | 8 years and 5 months ago

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RE: utoeid’s comment, it never hurts to take appropriate precautions, but FWIW I’m old enough to remember when heat guns for home-owner use were new, back in the ’70s and were being publicized (and sold) by the then Brooklyn-based “Old House Journal”. They claimed that the heat produced by these tools wasn’t high enough to vaporize lead paint and cause a hazard beyond that produced by the lead residue left by chemical paint remover. I don’t especially like using a heat gun (although I do own one) but I’d want to know more before ruling out their use.

streetcat | 8 years and 5 months ago

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We have used Peel Away 1 Heavy Duty Paint Remover from Dumond. You can buy (check first) at Kenseal in Long Island City. They might even give you a free test kit. This is a paste you put on, encapsulate with the provided paper, and let it set for a day and peel away. It took us about three applications though, but it is a safe way to encapsulate the lead. Not too messy except for the water and cleanup between each stage. As others say, “plastics!” for scraping. The kit includes paste, paper and tool. Demond has other product options too, but this was the most benign.

utoeid | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Hi Katie, First off if you are using a heat gun to remove old paint CEASE AND DESIST IMMEDIATELY. These old houses have lead paint and using a heat gun releases dangerous propellants into the air and into your lungs. If you are planning living a long and healthy life AND use a heat gun, you must ventilate the area well and use a commercial grade respirator and goggles. After you will have lead paint dust all around so my suggestion is to just stop. I too have an old CH Brownstone with 6 fireplaces so if you are endeavoring this project as a DIY then put your safety and that of your family first.

We used Peel Away. It is highly caustic and bit a pain in the ass but it got through our 6 or 7 layers fully in an overnight period. HomeD used to sell it but it is hard to find now. We used to buy in in 5 gallon buckets. For you I would purchase a small tub to see how you like it and if you can deal with my instructions below.

The trick to Peel Away was you had to spackle it on with a good trowel and put it on at least 1/4 inch thick. You can use a chep paint brush to layer the chemical into nooks and crannies. Then apply the papers in an overlapping manner over any of the remover. As an added insurance I would then use blue painters tape to seal up all the seams wherever the papers overlapped. Then add Saran Wrap over the entire spackled and papered area to ensure it does not dry out and tape the saran wrap down along the edges. Let it sit for 24 hours and NO PEEKING. Or if you are going to check, just check one small area that you can retape easily

When the 24 hours is done then peel away the Saran Wrap and the peel away paper from one side and use a plastic scraper (not metal) to scrape down the marble. The Peel Away should have gotten you right down to the marble.

***IMPORTANT*** YOU MUST PROTECT THE FLOORS AND WALLS WHERE ANY RESIDUE DURING THE PROCESS MAY LEAK ONTO AND I MEAN PROTECT LIKE A MADWOMAN. I purchased rolls of strips (the kinds they use if you might get a color at a beauty Salon and they wrap your edges in a strip of cotton so no color runs off). You can buy a wide strip of blue painters tape and tape down your floor, then add the cotton strip around the hearth and then tape the cotton down again. You should do this at least 6-10 inches out from the frame face of the marble unless you will be checking frequently for run off and cleaning up any leaking.

If you are happy with the Peel Away job then after 24 hours, peel the area away and use the suggested chemical in a spray bottle to deactivate the acid. Be prepared to wipe, wipe & wipe again to get fully rid of Peel away. You may also need to use a soft set of tooth brushes to get the deactivator into and the Peel Away out of nooks and crannies. Then when all the peel away is removed get some buckets of warm soapy water and a mild baking soda formula to wipe down the entire area.

***IMPORTANT***work on small areas. DO NOT DO THE ENTIRE FIRPLACE AT THE SAME TIME. Your first few attempts should be manageabe areas and preferably flat so that you can get the hang of it. You could for example do 1/2 of the mantle top.

Other Bstoners have recommended some good products which you should try too and you can always hire a company who can come in and strip it for you. In the long run the cost may equal out.

Best of luck.

montrosemorris | 8 years and 5 months ago

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I did what Resident 2 did. Worked really well. Don’t use metal scrapers or steel wool. Go plastic all the way. Marble is amazingly soft and scratches easily. I bought packs of cheap toothbrushes at the dollar store, along with packs of plastic scrubber sheets – the thin green squares. The dollar store also had dental picks, which also came in handy. You can tear the squares into smaller pieces and use the picks to get into cracks if the marble has ornate carving. It’s impossible to get it all, unless you are totally obsessive, but it’s possible to get 98% of the paint off.

The baking soda, or baby powder is super important, as it pulls that remaining pigment out of the marble. It’s been sitting in there 100 years, so give it time, and repeat if necessary. It’s time consuming, but incredibly satisfying to bring the marble back to life. And don’t forget to ventilate the room and wear a paint stripping respirator. Rock Miracle is like toxic waste. Breathing that stuff in will either give you superpowers or kill you.

badefrancis | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Thank you everyone, this is fantastic! I’ll have to find some Rock Miracle and try it out this week.
Ms Stalwart–is the baby powder suggestion for cleaning the marble post-stripping?

MsStalwart | 8 years and 5 months ago

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I just spoke to a friend today with lots of experience about the same thing. He suggested using really cheap baby powder (with no additives) for the paste and leaving it on for several days, wrapped with saran wrap.

resident2 | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Use Rock Miracle, with a soft scraper so as not to scratch the marble. The final coats will be a dark red brown; from when it was fashionable to have mahogany mantels, marble went out of fashion.
Use plenty of water to get the last of the Rock Miracle off and then use baking soda past (baking soda & water) for the final clean up and a tooth brush to get it out of the crevices. Leave the paste on for a while.
Once it is all clean, use a marble seal and polish to finish it.

Arkady | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Pay attention to the ingredients of anything you use. If there’s ammonia in it it destroys the marble.

peaceout | 8 years and 5 months ago

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Easier than stripping wood! Use Rock Miracle – wear the super heavy blue gloves.

robyim1 | 8 years and 5 months ago

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I hired some people to strip mines. They used a product called Kutzit. Came off pretty easy but stuff was toxic. Have to keep the windows open and spend alot of time taping off and protecting everything.