Soundproof Cont.

Janedrew, JoeBushwick, it seems you are still able to reply to my thread, though I am not!

I received a similarly jaw-dropping quote for around $7k per room, for one 9×13 wall. I am now in JoeBushwick’s shoes, where I’m ready to just do this on my own or maybe with a hired hand especially for the sanding and finishing. I despise drywalling… joint compound… all of it…

Joe, it would be great to hear what order of operations you took, and how the result has been. We are considering a layer of mass-loaded vinyl over the existing plaster, and then doing the usual framing + rockwool + 2 layers sheetrock. Debating doing MLV between the sheetrock.

colonialrevival

in General Discussion 3 years and 9 months ago

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Guest User | 3 years and 8 months ago

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The two walls are party walls and one sits directly above the other. They were both original plaster on brick masonry walls. We did not remove the plaster. We affixed one layer of 5/8″ quiet rock directly to the plaster wall using screws and adhesive (https://www.wwhenry.com/wp-content/uploads/HENRY-237-Technical-Data.pdf). We did not frame or use MLV/Rockwool. Felt it was complicated and overkill.

We are not planning to remove the flooring adjacent to the walls. On the lower floor, we will insulate the ceiling using Safe n Sound Rockwool. https://www.rockwool.com/north-america/products-and-applications/products/safensound/

If you have specific questions let me know. I may be missing details are important/relevant for you.

colonialrevival | 3 years and 8 months ago

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No need to be so brief! What sort of wall did you affix it to? What was before like? How is it now?

Guest User | 3 years and 8 months ago

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We kept it pretty simple and did two walls. We did not frame as did not want to add thickness. We screwed in/glued quietrock on the plaster wall . We used acoustical adhesive. We didn’t do anything at the joists but may insulate the ceiling in the lower room.

colonialrevival | 3 years and 8 months ago

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Care to show methods or photos Janedrew?

Guest User | 3 years and 8 months ago

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We’re already done. This is not to say everything else is going as smoothly as this part. Yes just do it!

colonialrevival | 3 years and 9 months ago

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I appreciate the replies. I’m a bit hesitant about fastening directly to the floor/ceiling and am now leaning towards clips and hat channel to float the wall… we’d lose much less space in the room this way as well. That said, I wonder how much of this dilly dallying is just procrastinating. I better get to work. Thanks again

JoeBushwick | 3 years and 9 months ago

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We just put down the metal track on the finished floor. In a previous apartment renovation where we were installing a new floor, I pulled back the flooring and caulked all around the joists and filled the space between the joists with Rockwool. I don’t know how much difference this made.

colonialrevival | 3 years and 9 months ago

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Thanks Joe. Yeah, thats what I was thinking specifically with extending the outlets — I’d love to remove those from the wall as well.

Did you affix your new wall directly to the floorboards? To subflooring? Did you do anything where the floor meets the wall? I’ve heard of individuals doing expanding spray foam etc, not sure if that’s something you had success with.

JoeBushwick | 3 years and 9 months ago

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If you have outlets in the party wall, I would suggest that you have an electrician extend the wires so you can mount new outlet boxes on the new studs. Then remove the boxes in the party wall and fill with mortar so you have fewer penetration in the party wall.

JoeBushwick | 3 years and 9 months ago

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We also wrapped the outlet boxes in putty pads and caulked the perimeter of the wall with acoustic caulk for a bit of extra protection.

JoeBushwick | 3 years and 9 months ago

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We used metal studs. I don’t think it would matter all that much if you used wood. We were just creating the void that was filled with Rockwool. I don’t know if Green glue is all that important but it was fairly inexpensive and was simple to apply. I took the “belt and suspenders” approach figuring that I would only be doing this once and I wanted to ensure we got the best outcome.

colonialrevival | 3 years and 9 months ago

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Thanks everyone but I’m still hoping JoeBushwick gets back about what type of studs he used. Let’s be patient, and await his reply.

shahnandersen

in General Discussion 3 years and 9 months ago

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To address the wall outlets us electrical box extenders: https://www.lowes.com/pl/Box-extender–Electrical-boxes-Electrical-boxes-covers-Electrical/4294653959?refinement=4294410318

Guest User | 3 years and 9 months ago

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https://www.avsforum.com/threads/green-glue-did-it-work.788718/

Re Sheetrock, look into QuietRock

colonialrevival | 3 years and 9 months ago

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The soundproofing professionals tell me that Green Glue doesn’t work at all, but they have a vested interest in saying that…

Guest User | 3 years and 9 months ago

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Re wall outlets, the electrician told me you just buy deeper boxes to replace existing

Guest User | 3 years and 9 months ago

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Click on your avatar, scroll down and find your post and you will be able to reply. However a new thread just makes it easier for all concerned. @colonial thank you.

There is still interest in this and more to discuss. We’re thinking of sheetrock and green glue. https://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/greenglue/greenglue_test_data.htm

colonialrevival | 3 years and 9 months ago

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This is helpful, thanks. Guessing you just used galvanized studs? How did you go about extending the wall outlets? It’d be great to email, actually, but can’t find a PM button.

JoeBushwick | 3 years and 9 months ago

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So a couple of thoughts:
Installing the MLV is a PITA. Its heavy and difficult to get into place. You need two or three people to do the job. We were securing it to plaster over brick so we had to pre-drill holes and then use masonry screws with washers. It would have probably been easier with a wood-frame wall or maybe nailing strips. After we put up the MLV, I did not really notice much difference in the sound transmission. The rock wool and 2 layers of sheetrock seemed to really do the trick. So you could probably skip the MLV and still make a big improvement. I don’t know if there is a way to PM someone on this forum, but if there is, I would be happy to talk to you via phone or email if you have more questions.