Repairing Wood Floors

I have some old wood floors that I have sanded and would like to stain. There are some 1/2″ gaps that need to be filled. What are some good ways to do this? [20428320_10159074694635150_458573402_n](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s1/:brownstoner:fGXl:20428320_10159074694635150_458573402_n.jpg.jpg)

shurafa

in General Discussion 8 years ago

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ac | 7 years and 11 months ago

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Use bondo. It used for repairs on cars. They sell it in home depot. It’s virtually metal once it cures. It’s like a paste when it’s soft so mold it into shape as much as you can because it doesn’t sand easily. It will hold up very well.

ac | 7 years and 11 months ago

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Use bondo. It used for repairs on cars. They sell it in home depot. It’s virtually metal once it cures. It’s like a paste when it’s soft so mold it into shape as much as you can because it doesn’t sand easily. It will hold up very well.

ac | 7 years and 11 months ago

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Use bondo. It used for repairs on cars. They sell it in home depot. It’s virtually metal once it cures. It’s like a paste when it’s soft so mold it into shape as much as you can because it doesn’t sand easily. It will hold up very well.

daveinbedstuy | 7 years and 11 months ago

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And sawdust and epoxy might work even better.

NeoGrec | 7 years and 11 months ago

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Our flooring guy used sawdust and glue. It’s still perfect 17 years later.

aurelien | 7 years and 11 months ago

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Maison Premiere in Williamsburg has used ropes. Looks good http://hustleandhome.blogspot.com/2013/06/minding-gap.html

sally | 7 years and 11 months ago

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I did it the old way- I used rope. It expands and contracts with the wood and it looks good, in a historic kind of way.

Guest User | 7 years and 11 months ago

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Wood is hygroscopic – it seasonally expands and contracts – even within a building interior. If you put a very hard filler (epoxy) between the boards, the edge grain will be crushed when the boards expand (summer), and when the boards contract (winter), the gaps will be wider. Best to leave them alone, or if you are worried about losing spare change in the larger gaps (1/2″ or wider), cut some filler strips and install them in the gaps, gluing them to one board edge only, so they can move as well. Use a similar specie of wood to the floor and you should have a suitable cure.

Guest User | 7 years and 11 months ago

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Wood is hygroscopic – it seasonally expands and contracts – even within a building interior. If you put a very hard filler (epoxy) between the boards, the edge grain will be crushed when the boards expand (summer), and when the boards contract (winter), the gaps will be wider. Best to leave them alone, or if you are worried about losing spare change in the larger gaps (1/2″ or wider), cut some filler strips and install them in the gaps, gluing them to one board edge only, so they can move as well. Use a similar specie of wood to the floor and you should have a suitable cure.

Guest User | 7 years and 11 months ago

string(1) "3"
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Wood is hygroscopic – it seasonally expands and contracts – even within a building interior. If you put a very hard filler (epoxy) between the boards, the edge grain will be crushed when the boards expand (summer), and when the boards contract (winter), the gaps will be wider. Best to leave them alone, or if you are worried about losing spare change in the larger gaps (1/2″ or wider), cut some filler strips and install them in the gaps, gluing them to one board edge only, so they can move as well. Use a similar specie of wood to the floor and you should have a suitable cure.

jakubowski2005 | 7 years and 11 months ago

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After much research I filled mine on top of finish of Polyureathane on the wood: with a mix of fine sawdust, elmers glue and paint tint. I’m hoping the exposure to the moisture of an occasional wash will keep the filling pliable and prevent the it from becoming brittle and popping out. Looks great after first year in place…

jakubowski2005 | 7 years and 11 months ago

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After much research I filled mine on top of finish of Polyureathane on the wood: with a mix of fine sawdust, elmers glue and paint tint. I’m hoping the exposure to the moisture of an occasional wash will keep the filling pliable and prevent the it from becoming brittle and popping out. Looks great after first year in place…

jakubowski2005 | 7 years and 11 months ago

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After much research I filled mine on top of finish of Polyureathane on the wood: with a mix of fine sawdust, elmers glue and paint tint. I’m hoping the exposure to the moisture of an occasional wash will keep the filling pliable and prevent the it from becoming brittle and popping out. Looks great after first year in place…

MsStalwart | 7 years and 11 months ago

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We lived with floors like yours for 25 years and just installed a hardwood floor over them this year. I never realized what a huge improvement it would be in every way.

joearchitect | 8 years ago

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That gap is a little too wide to leave as it is. You should cut out that section of the board and replace it with a piece of similar flooring. Make sure the patch is supported by a floor joist on each end. Or, if you don’t mind the floor being a little wonky, you could nail down a piece of sheet metal to cover the area. I see that a lot in old houses – where pipes have been removed and holes are patched with a piece of tin.

daveinbedstuy | 8 years ago

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I wouldn’t worry about them or try to fix the cracks unless it’s by replacing the boards. Enjoy the character and patina. That said, we had a cat who once got his collar tag stuck in a similar crack. No harm done!

BobMarvin | 8 years ago

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I did something vaguely similar years ago. Before my kitchen subfloor was sandedand vvarnished I pressed oakum into the gaps and covered it with wood filler. It looked good for a while but eeventually (when the boards shrunk in thewwinter) everything fell through

Bessie | 8 years ago

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slopefarm | 8 years ago

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We’ve got old wide-plank pine floors with lots of gaps. We just learned to live with the gaps between planks. If you want to embrace the antiquarian, you have to embrace it all. But that one piece looks really shot. Perhaps go onto some reclaimed wood sites and try to match. It will stain up differently, but that’s what area rugs are for.

I would also suggest sanding and finishing a few test spots to see what the final product is going to look like. You might like, you might not.