Pricing Mini-Splits, help!

Really appreciate this forum! Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts.

Can anyone tell me what they paid for their mini-splits? I’m trying to understand pricing for a Mitsubishi Hyperheat that will mainly cool 4 stories of an 18×40 brownstone. I’d like to put them in the wall or ceiling on as many floors as I can afford. But, what can I afford?

amspeci

in General Discussion 4 years and 6 months ago

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hkapstein | 4 years and 5 months ago

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30-35k. Pretty much a guess though, it depends on a lot of factors. Where are the outdoor units going, roof or yard? Are you landmarked? Do you plan to file permits? Want to do it super cheap, you can do it DIY. I believe they even have multi-zone DIY kits available. The lines come pre-charged, drill plug, feed lines, wire up and you’re in business. You may need an electrician for the wiring if you’re a scaredy pants.

Guest User | 4 years and 6 months ago

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Couple of reference points here you may need to interpolate.

I am installing a 36k hyperheat 3 wall unit system in a house upstate and that is coming in at about $12K – costs up there are not much less than here for other work, so i suspect that is a fairly average price.

I did a 36k LG system for my basement and garden floor (4 wall units) in a brownstone last year, The equipment itself was probably $10k due to the cost of long lines and I suspect another $7k was attributed to install. I will be putting another 36k system in for the top floor and Parlor with another 4 wall units, I’m budgeting around $20k for that. The contractor I use subs out for the AC work whilst he does other renovation work for me, so my costs were on the lower end of the Brooklyn market I suspect.

Short answer, I would think $50k for Mitsubishi w/Hyperheat, a little less if you go LG and the likes.

andriywww1990 | 4 years and 6 months ago

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@jjq: that bit of info, how these heat has solved something i have thought about for a long time. i once lived in the south where they have used heat pumps for some decades now and no matter what i was often cold in the house (and i was much younger). i once heard that it was because the heat was driven at us from the inside of the rooms (the ducts were say over doors) and we were stuck in the middle with cold coming at us from outer walls. not sure about that but i do believe what you are saying. makes sense.

hasibur.rahman07 | 4 years and 6 months ago

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Search in the forum, people have posted prices before.

dorkofwindsor | 4 years and 6 months ago

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To answer your question, as a starting point I will throw out $30-35k. Maybe others can comment on 4 floors of mini splits (I am assuming 2 compressors). I’m not certain if plaster walls (as opposed to drywall) add to the cost significantly or not.

jjq | 4 years and 6 months ago

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One more thing I want to mention about heat pumps: The heat “feels” different than steam or forced air.

My air handlers blow at aprox 120-130 degrees F at the face of the unit. By the time the heat circulates to he interior of the room it’s at about 90 degrees… which is less than the average temperature of human skin.

The effect of the above is that on extremely cold days (<30 degrees F) the air currents made by the air handler seem to blow cold to a person sitting 10-15 feet fro the wall unit. The above is a subtle point. Steam and forced air heat can blow as high as 180 degrees at the wall. By the time this heated air reaches you in the center of the room it’s still 100 degrees or more and feels cozy warm... Heat pumps don’t operate this way. They warm the room slowly. There is no initial “blast” of hot air which feels GREAT on colder winter days. That’s why in my opinion there’s nothing better than steam heat in the winter.

jjq | 4 years and 6 months ago

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I’ve had a 48k Mitsubishi h2i hyper heat system for about 6 years. It cools and heats 5 out of 10 rooms (no hallways, no bathrooms, no basement) in a very poorly insulated two story plus basement brownstone. I plan to install another 48k system to replace baseboard heating in remaining rooms.

What I can tell you is— buy the biggest Condenser (outside unit) Mitsubishi sells— which is the 48k unit. The premium may be 50%, but you will need the “extra” headroom for heating in the long run.

We keep all interior doors closed to compartmentalize the house, but need aprox 60k btu heat per floor, per hour. Basically one 48k unit per floor… which is NOT AT ALL what the spec would lead you to believe… it’s really all about how insulated your property is.

The h2i units work out to 3-5kWh of electric per hour because in a poorly insulated house the inverter functionality is less effective.

In summer we run the air handlers in “humidity” only mode… which makes the rooms very comfortable and removes gallons and gallons of water from the air.

The beauty of these things is in the fact you can hang a unit in the wall and push a drain through the wall plaster. I have 3 air handler units installed in the cocks loft (only one is active) and the additional ductwork and carpentry for vents etc made the install easily twice as much as simply hanging an air handler on the wall.