How would you refinish this concrete wall?

https://imgur.com/a/9EE2CmS

I’m refinishing these basement steps. Need to figure out wall treatment. I’m sure if I use paint or some other direct to wall finish that it will meet the same fate as what is on there. I’m considering some sort of paneling but not sure about how I would secure to wall, how I would handle rounded corners and how it would meet the skirt (which I’d like to avoid removing if possible).

The stairs will eventually be covered in LVP if that matters.

nancy.morales2

in General Discussion 3 years and 2 months ago

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andriywww1990 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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you know what i think that crap is on the walls. and i do not know for certain because i have never done it, i think that is texture paint. it was thickened paint that a lot of people put on in the 1970’s to hide damage to old plaster walls and it looks just like what it is – 1970’s.

it may be peeling because someone did not prime the concrete. people who used textured paint in the 1970’s did not prep anything. it goes against the reasoning of using this kind of paint in the first place: get it done as quickly and cheaply as possible.

if that is what it is, you will want to try to remove as much of it as possible before you try to adhere paneling to it or attempt to repair it as though it is plaster.

andriywww1990 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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if you try to rescue that old plaster and want to get rid of the high spots, sand them off first. you might have use course because the paint will clog fine paper or a screen. never mind a screen on paint: paper, 36 grit. to make the repairs, put your base coat of plaster in and fill it to the level of the old surface. THEN, after it hardens tape the (repair) seam with fiberglass mesh tape and finish as you would with drywall compound (if you try to bend the fiberglass tape into a jagged edged void, the outer edge of the tape will not sit flat and even against the good plaster and the tape may not want to adhere to that concrete as well; it is better to level first). when i do this i sand with a screen. you will then have to skim over the entire wall if you taped well, you can skim right over it without sanding.

if you find any voids in the block or concrete wall (that could be what happen where the plaster is releasing), tape that void or crack before you put your base coat on. if you have any loose mortar, stabilize that first with mortar or get real ly wide tape and go over that first, then base coat.

if you wish, and you end up breaking bits of the plaster out here and there and it just looks like an impossible mess to tape, fill it as i said and get yourself a 36″ wide roll of the mesh from the paint store (not sure about HD). put that mesh on the wall and skim it off. if you do a good job you will have minimal sanding.

you can consider structtolite for the base but stores like HD have all sorts of other things like dash patch. some of them are more expensive than plaster but may be easier to use. price may not matter on a small job like this where you may not use an entire bag anyway.

check on the plaster weld. just because i have had no issues not using it does not mean that the concrete will not behave differently than what i have worked on (i have never put plaster to a poured concrete or block wall, never). also, see what structolite says about concrete and using it with plaster weld. and this: someone once told me that they used to pour plaster weld into the wet plaster. not sure if this is something people in the trade do and i only recall it because it sounded weird to me and i only ever heard one person say such a thing. he was a pro though.

and i beg to differ with cate, but it looks like 1960’s or 70’s plaster. they did better work than that in the 1920s. this was handyman work to hide something else.

keep in mind, even in the 1970’s that plaster dust could have to crap in it. i would not worry on a small job like this but i would never have a child nearby as i broke this off or sanded it and if you sand, wear a mask.

cate | 3 years and 2 months ago

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Looks like circa 1920s plaster, not concrete to me. A typical approach is the remove the loose plaster, add a light coating of Plaster-Weld, cover it with fiberglass mesh, and lightly skim coat over it. You may be able to get away with just one thin coat, if it covers the fiberglass. If you need to smooth anything, use a wet or damp sponge (don’t sand). Don’t put the plaster water into your pipes. The difficulty is the base surface looks smooth, which means it could be difficult for plaster to hold onto. You could email the Plaster-Weld people and see what they say. Though the issue here appears to be cracking of the plaster, not loosening from the substrate, so that’s encouraging.

andriywww1990 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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so something else, and this is what i was thinking about as i woke this morning. i think i know what you are trying to do. i think you wanted to remove the “skirt” (the stringer) so you can run paneling behind it and down to the floor below. if you are lucky, it may be like this: not all stairs in concrete basements are fastened to the walls. the stringer can be freestanding like the outside stringer and i have seen a gap between the stringers and the all in a lot of basements. maybe if you try to remove the cap molding and chip off that whatever finish is on the wall, you might expose a 1/4″ gap between the wall and stringer.

stevecym | 3 years and 2 months ago

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So no. The treads are cut into the stringer.

nancy.morales2 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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Gotcha. I always considered the stringer being the piece that is under the treads and the skirt is the visible molding above the treads.

nancy.morales2 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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Gotcha. I always considered the stringer being the piece that is under the treads and the skirt is the visible molding above the treads.

stevecym | 3 years and 2 months ago

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No, leave the skirt. It is not a skirt, it is a stringer. It is the structural member of the stairs. Remove the cap on the skirt.

I used to use 400 for all sorts of things and ran tests with it on red brick. The 400 is water impervious that is why i suggested it but when you go to our favorite big box store read the lables on these products. There are a dozen or so of them and with the exception of pl premium, i have not used any of them in years. The 400 is thicker than the premium and i think that means it will not spread as so much as you press the panel against it, causing it to lose tack with the panel.

nancy.morales2 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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Thanks it seems as thought the treads are butted up against the skirt. To remove it I would have to remove all the treads. Do you think the PL400 would adhere to raw concrete?

nancy.morales2 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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Thanks it seems as thought the treads are butted up against the skirt. To remove it I would have to remove all the treads. Do you think the PL400 would adhere to raw concrete?

andriywww1990 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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i would peel the loose plaster and leave what is adhered. the pl 400 is gap filling, meaning if there is any uneveness between the brick and remaining plaster, the pl will level that out if you put it on heavy enough. also they have panel adhesive at HD.

you can use paneling around the window and draw the edges up close enough were they join and then, find some outside corner mold and afix that using the same pl product. stain the molding first. well, cut it first, stain it second and put a coat of finish on it, like water base poly. do it in that order. if you stain and then cut, the saw will rip little pieces out and you will see it. not the worst thing, but if you poly and then cut, the saw will rip bigger splinters out of the wood. then glue it on. i have never used the pl400 on an outside corner molding like that but it might be thick enough to tack hold it. of course we would shoot a couple of brads into it to hold it until the adhesive cured.

as you glue the paneling around the inside of the window frame, if the frame is not straight, apply the adhesive and stick some shims in there to straighten it out. break the shims off when it dries.

andriywww1990 | 3 years and 2 months ago

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i just looked at the photos as my desk top. if that cap molding on top of the stringer is removeable and you wish to put paneling on, you would remove the molding and place the paneling and purchase some trim, it could even be cove, to match the paneling and place that on the stringer which i believe you ae calling the skirt. in most houses the profile at the top is removable.

stevecym | 3 years and 2 months ago

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If you wish to panel, you can affix it with construction adhesive like pl 400 or premuim. I might be inclined to see if that current plaster will peel off and if so i might remove it so you have a firm surface to adhere to.

We had issue with plaster on brick in this house and i busted off what was loose and replastered. Years ago i used to use products like plaster weld but i am not sure i did that in my house and everything is fine. I forget what i used as a base coat. Could have been plaster of paris. Not sure. Finished with compound. You can always take the high surfaces down on that texture finish snd skim over it if most of what is there is stable.