fix wood ceiling

wood ceiling(4×8 plywood sheets screwed to joists with 3″ screws). structurally sound. installed 14 years ago. spackling on seams looked awful. In 2018 paid a contractor to texture the entire ceiling and hide the spackled seams. I dont know what he used, but some fell after 3 months. He said it was not his fault, but he fixed it. All was fine until more fell last month. we can see that it’s not sticking in other spots too. So, more will fall. I wish I left it as it was. it looked yucky, but was stable.

contractors what to remove wood and add drywall for 3 to 5k$.

if I can remove the texturing what can I do to pretty up the existing ceiling without removing it?

I need something that lasts. Like the plaster on the ceilings of the attached house.

indoor eff apartment attached to my house. both built in 1952. West central Florida. current tenant uses AC 24/7, but future tenants might not. i want whatever I do to last!

thanks, paul

logan.chapman

in General Discussion 2 years and 10 months ago

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andriywww1990 | 2 years and 10 months ago

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some of this is in a way out of my area. i know a lot about wood and wood finishes – interior and exterior but less so about decorative finishes and i no longer have access to experienced people who apply those things. i think you said you called dap. that is the best thing you can do when you are using products in unknown circumstances or pushing the limits or apply in less than ideal conditions. check out these textured finish product and call the manufacturers and the big drywall compound manufacturers and see what they say. maybe you want to try to piece meal the repair on spots coming down and leave those up for later.

when we moved in this house, we had some cracks appearing in our cieling and layers of paint peeling. in spots. other spots were fine. we peeled what we could, taped and spackled and painted and 16 years later we are still happy though i see a couple more spots opening up.

andriywww1990 | 2 years and 10 months ago

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ok, so when i mean screwed, i mean a butt seam joined and screwed over the run of the joist. which means the seams running the other way are not on joists. if i were to do this, i would put blocks on the other side of the wood not hitting a joist and screw them and then affix the next piece of wood to those blocks as well as the joists. floating seems are no good, even wood filler or even epoxy may not hold (it may if you use epoxy in the seam and tape it with fiberglass but ideally they would be biscuited).

a couple of things about these fillers. many are not made for wood. wood moves,, they are stiff and hard and they do not move and they crack out. when we use vinyl fillers on small surface imperfections, we do prime first which is what you said.

i said that about using drywall compound to bond wood and drywall. i ran tests by bonding wood to drywall. it held. in the end, for the project i was on in the 1990’s, i used pl400 (i had furred a brick wall out with wood and attached drywall to that). after i said that last night and i am sorry to adm it this is how consumed i am with this, as i was falling asleep and thought “i should not have said that on this board as i am not fully sure that changes in humidity might not break the bond”. wood moves and many times adhesives with a little flex are good as they do not crack. drywall compound may crack.