Electric Strike Plate - do I need a locksmith or electrician?

The strike plate on our front door periodically gets stuck open when someone is buzzed in. Should I be looking for a locksmith or an electrician or someone from a completely different discipline to help me fix this? If a locksmith, any guidance on how to find someone who understands the nuances of electric locks? Thanks!

NewOwner

in General Discussion 5 years and 11 months ago

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NewOwner | 5 years and 11 months ago

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Thank you very much for the detailed guidance!

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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also, if your system is powered by house current, it is AC. years ago they had these things powered by batteries. batteries believe it or not were used for all sorts of things in old houses; phones, buzzers for the maid or butler, alarm systems, and access control. the reason some of the latches say DC on them is in case the system is powered by batteries which i have not seen though we did have an antiquated fire alarm system in a building that was powered by batteries (and not for back up; it was old).

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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this is easy.

the box is in the basement or in a closet. it looks like an alarm panel box, about 16×16 and most likely white. if you are lucky, the installer left a schematic inside and that will show you the map of the wires and circuits and will show something that might be labeled “entry”. if it does say that, those should be the leads for the latch. you will see a pair of wires (bell wire) hooked up to them and it may be actual bell wire wrapped in a sleeve with two extra, unused wires. if you are lucky the two colors hooked to those leads are the same as the two wires hooked to the back of the latch, helps with identification. somewhere along the way, you should see the voltage. we often cannot access the boxes so i have someone push the access button as i hold a voltmeter to the wires. usually they are like 12-16 volts.

on to the latch. easy. remove it. the worst thing that can go wrong is the wire has already been stressed and breaks (single strand copper does that) and there is not enough to make a new connection. replacing or adding to that can be a little tricky and sometimes we just run a new wire through the door; i run mine under the bottom glass molding. that is about the worst thing that can happen here, imho.

it is a matter of hooking the wire to the two little phillips screws. the best way to wrap wire is in the direction with which you will tighten the screws, thus it does not have the tendency to push the wire out from under the screw but pull it around it.

this is where things can go wrong; if you over tighten the screws holding the latch in place, you may bend the housing and then the entire unit will hang up, sort of like it is doing now.

also, you might find a label on the old unit and it might tell what voltage that unit is. i do not go by the voltage of the old unit as the way i was raised and taught was if you install it and it is wrong, it is your responsibility if it breaks. not many of the “tradesmen” running around the city today work by that rule, but if it works and you are happy, it may be ok to install the same model unit. on my own house, i would try to find the correct voltage.

you can always call a locksmith if you get into this and don’t feel comfortable. but you may NOT want to call me. here is my story: i am really a woodworker. i restore doors and sometimes do other things if i am on a job and a customer asks. i do have hourly rates published on my website and i hope they are more than the neighborhood locksmith’s rates. i have been installing locks since the 1980’s. i do not know how to key locks up to one another, but since i am a woodworker, i can cut and modify a door to install all sorts of locks.
i have the jigs and a mortising tool; all professional stuff. but there has to be some compelling reason to call me. usually this is that someone else already damaged the door (break in) and you need the wood fixed or you have bought a high end Baldwin lockset and now the door has to be mortised or wish me to try to make old hardware work with some newer stuff; i do not compete with the neighborhood locksmiths as i rely on them to key things up for me (say i were at your house installing a mortise lock and you wanted it keyed to something else, i would pull the other lock and i would either run it to the locksmith or for real peace of mind, write out what we need and send you). i did not always “service” doors this way but after years of turning that business away, i realized there was a real need for a woodworker to go out there and take care of this stuff for people who otherwise do not want a full restoration.

good luck with this. i will check later to see if you have any questions.

i explain what i do on my website: www.thetinkerswagon.com

Steve

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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this is what happens when you hit your mid 50’s- you stay in on Friday and look at locksmith’s catalogues. i was actually looking something else up and landed on the page with these: its an SBH 409. still in the residential size range and similar to a trine. sbh makes a few that size. voltage looks like 12-16 ac/dc

NewOwner | 5 years and 11 months ago

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Thank you! Where exactly do I find the voltage? What component is the “entry system?” Also, do you think that replacement is a basic DIY operation (for a not very handy person) or do you think that I should call in a professional?

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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it looks like trine 2000 series. still kind of cheap. i have an even cheaper one here in my hand, a 001 and the housing is very thin metal.

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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also, i can tell by the condition it is old and i bet the spring is tired. time for a new one.

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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its a trine or a lee and i think it is a cheaper one at that. if you go with anything they have handy you should be ok, but try to get something closer to $100. they get heavier at that price, what i mean is the body is heavier and will be less likely to bend and jam the works up. at the same time, you do not want to spend a heap of money on one and go high end as they get bulky and require a lot of cutting to install. i like trine (take a look on line at them).

also, the contact on the entry system should be labled, on the box. it should have the voltage on it. usually 14-16. if you know that before you call the locksmith or even when you look on line, you will be able to pick out the model you need and tell them what you are looking for, might help.

5th ave lock and key should have a lot of this stuff.

NewOwner | 5 years and 11 months ago

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Steve, please see attached. It’s about 5 inches long. (Sorry for delay!) [File](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:zV3x:file.jpeg.jpg)

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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i was thinking about this at work today; the spring is either lazy or the housing is bent.

if you post a picture of the unit, i will be able to identify it and tell you the make and you can see if 5th avenue carries it (and perhaps they put the original in depending upon where you are?) at least i can tell you if it is a common sized unit (the pricey ones get bigger). the only thing i cannot tell you by looking at it is voltage. but if you really want to get into this, i can tell you how to find that –

steve

NewOwner | 5 years and 11 months ago

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That’s really helpful, thank you. I will first try to oil it with CRC and then if that doesn’t work, take a picture and bring it to a local locksmith to see if they can replace.

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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and something else regarding this.

most of the residential latches that the locksmiths sell are of a certain size and make. Trine is a common one found in NYC. if you can either find a locksmith that carries the shape and size or even model of yours or you can source one (voltage is the concern they operate on something like 14-16 volts or 24 volts; the control unit states the voltage) you will have better luck with the install. it is better to put something the same size back in (enter “trine electric latches” on google and look at the images and see if something looks close; i am working in my shop now and if i see any others i might post the name on here as whatever i have is what’s used in Brooklyn). a big issue with these doors and a big reason we get a lot of calls is due to damage from years of changing things and rough treatment during the process of changing them and varying sizes; you end up with no wood to hold the unit or put a screw in. if you can find your unit, you are better off and yes, the local locksmith – 5th ave or miguel can manage t his.

be aware, if you spend $40 on one of these, you are getting something very light weight and well, cheap. they are hard to work with as they are so light the housings can bend and when they bend, the internal workings hang up (which may be your issue now). minimum price on something decent is about $80 and yes, trine makes some for less and some for more.

if you or anyone reading this were to want to install a high security latch, with a lot of bulk to it, that would require a bit more cutting and most people want that to be precise.

i do not mind telling you all of this as i do not actually make money installing these and would be just as happy if 5th ave did it for you. a little knowledge though will help you.

steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

NewOwner | 5 years and 11 months ago

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Thank you!

stevecym | 5 years and 11 months ago

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i restore doors and put these in on about 40% of the work i do. i am a woodworker first and quite frankly, because i know how to cut the pocket in the wood and have the proper “plunge” saw to notch the wood around the shape of the protruding latch body(especially when we get into the higher security latches that have a bulge of steel on them toward the inside), i think the person to do this is a woodworker. i do not want to knock the locksmiths, because professional locksmith’s are good at what they do, but i do not think they have the patience for such a task. If you are asking from a technical or legal standpoint, you need someone with a “low voltage” electrician’s license though my guess is most people performing this, do not carry that and i don’t.

this is what is happening to your existing latch. what happens inside when these move into action is, an electro magnet pulls a steel plate out of the way and that plate is what holds the latch in the locked position (this is why when someone pushes the door just before the buzzer is hit, the latch will not open; that magnet is not that strong and can not move the plate under force from the latch; this is also why there must be play in these doors). in your case, the plate is not snapping back into position. sometimes this happens because part of the unit got a little bent (on the less expensive ones) or perhaps the spring has gotten a little lazy (if it is old it is time to replace it; the unit, not the spring) or perhaps the latch is not snapping all the way back and it not in position to allow the plate to do its job (again, lazy spring) but this is what i would do on my house before i changed it, at least in the interim (and if it works we stretch it to permanent, especially us contractors because we hate working on our own homes); i would spray a little CRC 5-56 in there in case the metal plate is rubbing someplace. this may or may not work and do not drench it as there is an electro magnet inside and for the same reason, do not use oil or wd-40 as these are not made for electrical applications (you know, scratch the crc, any electrical component lubricant should ok and crc does make them; the chain auto supplies carry them, red can).

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Arkady | 5 years and 11 months ago

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I’d use a locksmith. 5th Av. Key – (718) 768-8643