DIY wall repair - exterior brick

[Back Wall](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:fHS3:backwall.jpg.jpg) Ideas on how to repair this brick wall? It’s just a couple of small patches.

slimc

in General Discussion 3 years ago

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annep | 3 years ago

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Copying and pasting a super helpful response I got from limeworks when I reached out to ask them about what was best to use on the back wall of our brownstone.

In regards to Thorocoat–it is an acrylic based sealer that is going to be most appropriate on veneer systems and other drainage-managed things like concrete pads. It’s generally not good for most mass masonry settings as trapped moisture can cause serious damage. There are, of course, exceptions so I can’t speak to your building specifically. Thorocoat has a perm rating of around 13, which is more breathable than some dense masonry, but generally not historic brick. So, it’s always a risk.

If you are repointing the wall in its entirety and the mortar is all breathable lime mortar, then no you don’t necessarily need a sealer. Where sealers can help is in areas where you anticipate lots of liquid water, such as foundations, chimneys, or windward sides of exposed walls. Sealers are usually best on the exterior too, not doing too much in interior spaces unless its a bathroom or pool or something. If you d o need a sealer, there are options that are more compatible with historic masonry such as Silanes or Siloxanes.

The difference between a silane and a siloxane is how much they seal the wall. Siloxanes seal the wall “100%” meaning that they are very resistant to liquid water and won’t allow other things to go on top. Silanes seal “80%” meaning you still get very good water resistance but still maintain the ability to use other coatings on top. If you know for a fact that you’re never going to want a limewash, mineral paint, or other kind of liquid-applied coating on the wall in the next 15-20 years, a siloxane is a good choice. However, if there is any doubt that you (or a future owner) may want one of these coatings, I’d stick with a silane. To compare to Thorocoat, these coatings are not acrylic based and have a rating of around 70-80 perms.

Lurker | 3 years ago

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There’s Thoroseal and there’s also Thorocoat. The latter allows water vapor to leave the brick which may prevent brick from deteriorating. Not sure if one is better t than the other.
https://www.brockwhite.com/userfiles/documents/info/0900123pd.pdf

Guest User | 3 years ago

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Call 718-669-8305 – CTG Construction, We will give you good price.

andriywww1990 | 3 years ago

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Its not that thick as to look like any sort of mortar. I doubt any mortar can be put on that thin as when someone went to run a sponge over it to smooth it, it would wash right off. It’s a paint. It’s probably what eman says, thoroseal. It may be a heavy coat of the stuff or multiple coats.

I don’t believe in coating certain substrates because when moisture gets in from behind, it wants to get out and it seems as if it pushes the coating off the wall (back to what leeb is alluding to).

shahnandersen

in General Discussion 3 years ago

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Guest User | 3 years ago

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looks like failed thoroughseal… it used to be the go to coating for leaky brick walls
https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/24/244d17cf-6257-494a-a322-e26b69062a24.pdf

andriywww1990 | 3 years ago

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There is no need for hydraulic cement.

andriywww1990 | 3 years ago

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I am not a mason but i do believe that putting anything over exterior brick is part of the problem.

Guest User | 3 years ago

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Any of those products are similar. Hydraulic cement would work over small areas but it sets fast. Purists think one should let the bricks breath.

slimc | 3 years ago

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Yes, I bought the house like this 10 years ago. I was wondering if something I have on hand might be okay to use. like hydraulic cement? or stucco?

Guest User | 3 years ago

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Looks like a Drylok job. It isn’t good for the masonry, but you can buy it by the gallon. It’s easy enough to do, but you’ll have to do it again before long as it tends to trap moisture.