Buffing surface scratches from an acrylic tub and stainless steel countertop

My tenant has been scrubbing the tub and countertop with abrasive pads and/or cleaners resulting in superficial but ugly scratch marks. Does anyone have experience with buffing the surfaces to their original shine? I am looking for either DIY suggestions or contractors that specialize in this kind of work. Thank you!

firsthome

in General Discussion 6 years and 8 months ago

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binbong | 6 years and 8 months ago

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Rather than buffing out the scratches have you considered refinishing the tub? I know rustoleum makes a DIY product that gets good reviews. Otherwise there are contractors that can professionally refinish / re-enamel a tub.

firsthome | 6 years and 8 months ago

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Thank you Steve for your in-depth knowledge on this topic! I definitely learned a few things and you convinced me not to do anything to the tub other than buffing it with some plastic compound. But I won’t bother doing it for the next tenant, only once I move into the apartment myself. The stainless steel I will not touch, but I hope it will age nicely over time so that the hideous back and forth pattern from trying to clean away a spot will disappear

stevecym | 6 years and 8 months ago

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i do not want to misguide you here but i had not always been mindful of what caused the scratches when replying. if you are saying these were done with a cleaner like comet, that powder is fine. if you were going to take a go at this, ignore what i say when i mention abrasives heavier than say 600 grit (for those who are reading this and do not know, the grit is courser with the lower number; i think it has to do with the number of wires per square inch in the screen they pour the sand through) and start at 600 and see if that does it. you may even try 800. that is my guess. i bet if someone googled the grit of ajax or comet, it can be found on line; that is where you start. you learn that as you do this work to start as fine as you can to save steps. the reason i will not do this on the stainless in my kitchen is i know that once i start with one spot, i will have to do it all to match.

stevecym | 6 years and 8 months ago

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i just checked. Locktite makes a paste compound in grits between 80 and 400. pricey though. water mix powders would be cheaper.

stevecym | 6 years and 8 months ago

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you know, you say this is acrylic. i think when I took that plastics class a million years ago, we had a chemical we used to buff out acrylic. i think. i used it and i think it was on acrylic.

stevecym | 6 years and 8 months ago

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if you do want to give it a go and have questions, ask here and i will comment.

stevecym | 6 years and 8 months ago

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as mr marvin points out, this may not be worth it. I probably wouldn’t do it in my own house.

stevecym | 6 years and 8 months ago

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also, all metals and plastics are finished to a certain point. be it the way the mold was finished or how much machining was done to the final product. some things have deliberate texture. a tub should have texture so no one falls. if you go at this tub, you may leave a flat spot. when we are getting paid to do a job we have to then finish the entire project the same way so it looks the same albeit not like the original. usually I work on metal and buff out an entire door trim set to a certain finish.

here is what you can try to get around the massive hand work you are looking at; an automotive buffing wheel (ours was $30 from sears; perhaps if they had charged $40 they would still be around) and a paste type compound. the edges of these buffers can be a little flexible and the can also accommodate plain cloth wheels which bend into curves. there are a host of compounds out there both heavier and lighter than simichrome. some of these come as a powder to be mixed with water (pumice powder for example). you may still be using a fine compound tha t I would otherwise use after sanding, but the machine and mass of compound will shorten some of the labor; perhaps hand sand the damaged spots and buff the entire area? no matter how fine the product, simichrome for example or even old fashioned toothpaste, you will get it down, it just may take a lot of labor. there may even be a 100 or 200 grit paste or powder to mix with water.

by the way, when I was in my shop, I checked the name of the sanding disks are mirka abralon and they went down to 4000 grit.

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years and 8 months ago

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Since it’s in a rental apartment I suppose it’s only worth taking a risk if you think prospective future tenants might be turned away by the scratches which I think is unlikely.

firsthome | 6 years and 8 months ago

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Steve, you are spot on with your assessment . I gave Simichrome a shot, and while it removed really tough surface grime beautifully, it didn’t remove any of the scratches. It makes sense that one has to sand the surface down to the depth of the scratch first and then apply the compound for polishing.

Since the tub isn’t a flat surface, the sanding would probably have to be done manually. It sounds like a lot of work with enormous potential to make things look a lot worse.

I wonder if there are any contractors who specialize in this kind of work? And then I also wonder if it’d be worth taking the risk of touching it at all.

stevecym | 6 years and 8 months ago

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depending on how deep the scratches go, you may have to use something with a bit more bite than simichrome. to take any scratches out of anything, you have to start with something heavier than the scratches themselves and make your first cut with that and bring the surface in line with the depth of the scratch. years ago I took a plastics class and what we did in that class was no different that using abrasives on metal or wood. what we always have to be careful of is the thickness of the material (with wood veneer for instance or molded plastics with may not be solid colored material all the way through; fiberglass has a gel coat which looks nice but is easy to sand through). if those are deep scratches you can try an orbital sander with something as heavy as 100 grit paper and work finer from there.; so a pass with 100 grit, then 120, 150, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200; you get the picture. I have had to stop at 2000 on occasion and then use a compound, such as auto compound (the white is heavier, the red is lighter; one of them is probably close t o simichrome). Abbot paint on Eagle St in Greenpoint sells a 5″ sanding disc set that runs all the grits down to say 4000. it is made for this kind of stuff and I have used it on brass kick plates. I have never relied on one single product when buffing as it will either be too much work or not heavy enough to do the job.

now, you asked about scratches in stainless. so I have buffed plastic and brass and silver and even glass but have never tried stainless. it is not that I have not had the opportunity; I have scratched stainless just 10 feet from where I sit now in my own kitchen and will not attempt it. a man once told me that it is just too hard to buff out. I have thought about doing it in the past and if you look at stainless it has a pattern (graining?) in it; to buff it you would have to recreate that pattern which will be hard to do. so the next best approach would be to sand the entire piece to get the scratches out and continue sanding finer and finer as detailed above until you are at a place you like. I bet it would be about 4,000 grit paper. it is a lot of work.

steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Augustiner | 6 years and 8 months ago

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    ["user_pass"]=>
    string(34) "$P$B34SD8yEA6Hi8EPJJfH83mCf4GZmmP0"
    ["user_nicename"]=>
    string(10) "augustiner"
    ["user_email"]=>
    string(18) "flo@flat-peach.com"
    ["user_url"]=>
    string(32) "http:///forums/users/augustiner/"
    ["user_registered"]=>
    string(19) "2017-08-10 13:35:10"
    ["user_activation_key"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_status"]=>
    string(1) "0"
    ["display_name"]=>
    string(6) "August"
    ["spam"]=>
    string(1) "0"
    ["deleted"]=>
    string(1) "0"
  }
  ["ID"]=>
  int(45573)
  ["caps"]=>
  array(2) {
    ["subscriber"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["bbp_participant"]=>
    bool(true)
  }
  ["cap_key"]=>
  string(15) "wp_capabilities"
  ["roles"]=>
  array(2) {
    [0]=>
    string(10) "subscriber"
    [1]=>
    string(15) "bbp_participant"
  }
  ["allcaps"]=>
  array(4) {
    ["read"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["level_0"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["subscriber"]=>
    bool(true)
    ["bbp_participant"]=>
    bool(true)
  }
  ["filter"]=>
  NULL
  ["site_id":"WP_User":private]=>
  int(1)
}

I believe you can buff out the acrylic tub with car polish – look on YouTube

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years and 8 months ago

string(1) "2"
object(WP_User)#4874 (8) {
  ["data"]=>
  object(stdClass)#5146 (12) {
    ["ID"]=>
    string(3) "779"
    ["user_login"]=>
    string(13) "RobertGMarvin"
    ["user_pass"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_nicename"]=>
    string(13) "RobertGMarvin"
    ["user_email"]=>
    string(40) "64df18426207ddf12f1789eba7eabd04a9c3f615"
    ["user_url"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_registered"]=>
    string(19) "2007-08-10 18:03:45"
    ["user_activation_key"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_status"]=>
    string(1) "0"
    ["display_name"]=>
    string(10) "Bob Marvin"
    ["spam"]=>
    string(1) "0"
    ["deleted"]=>
    string(1) "0"
  }
  ["ID"]=>
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  ["filter"]=>
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  ["site_id":"WP_User":private]=>
  int(1)
}

I’ve never used Simichrome for that, but I’ve used it successfully on other kinds of plastic.

firsthome | 6 years and 8 months ago

string(1) "1"
object(WP_User)#4934 (8) {
  ["data"]=>
  object(stdClass)#5142 (12) {
    ["ID"]=>
    string(6) "184771"
    ["user_login"]=>
    string(9) "firsthome"
    ["user_pass"]=>
    string(63) "$wp$2y$10$TXLAR7eIEx/FwZn/6h5y7O2PMc1cZ.zRyUNsEfIHreiVC.prU055e"
    ["user_nicename"]=>
    string(9) "firsthome"
    ["user_email"]=>
    string(25) "brownstoner@aeonfluff.com"
    ["user_url"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_registered"]=>
    string(19) "2014-12-18 00:47:02"
    ["user_activation_key"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_status"]=>
    string(1) "0"
    ["display_name"]=>
    string(9) "firsthome"
    ["spam"]=>
    string(1) "0"
    ["deleted"]=>
    string(1) "0"
  }
  ["ID"]=>
  int(184771)
  ["caps"]=>
  array(1) {
    ["bbp_participant"]=>
    bool(true)
  }
  ["cap_key"]=>
  string(15) "wp_capabilities"
  ["roles"]=>
  array(1) {
    [0]=>
    string(15) "bbp_participant"
  }
  ["allcaps"]=>
  array(1) {
    ["bbp_participant"]=>
    bool(true)
  }
  ["filter"]=>
  NULL
  ["site_id":"WP_User":private]=>
  int(1)
}

Thanks for the tip! Do you recommend to use this on the acrylic tub as well?

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 6 years and 8 months ago

string(1) "2"
object(WP_User)#4934 (8) {
  ["data"]=>
  object(stdClass)#5147 (12) {
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    ["user_login"]=>
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    ["user_pass"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_nicename"]=>
    string(13) "RobertGMarvin"
    ["user_email"]=>
    string(40) "64df18426207ddf12f1789eba7eabd04a9c3f615"
    ["user_url"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_registered"]=>
    string(19) "2007-08-10 18:03:45"
    ["user_activation_key"]=>
    string(0) ""
    ["user_status"]=>
    string(1) "0"
    ["display_name"]=>
    string(10) "Bob Marvin"
    ["spam"]=>
    string(1) "0"
    ["deleted"]=>
    string(1) "0"
  }
  ["ID"]=>
  int(779)
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  }
  ["cap_key"]=>
  string(15) "wp_capabilities"
  ["roles"]=>
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  }
  ["allcaps"]=>
  array(0) {
  }
  ["filter"]=>
  NULL
  ["site_id":"WP_User":private]=>
  int(1)
}

A good metal polish, like Simichrome should work.