Best Cleaner For White Cabinets…?

Ten year old maple kitchen cabinets with pure white painted exteriors.

Obviously we clean them periodically, but food splatter, hand-use and general wear and tear have dulled what should be a nice bright white (not gloss) shine to an off-white…. No yellowing… but dull white.

What products do people use to remove general age grime and restore the shine of old painted wood cabinets?

Thnx.

jrs84o

in General Discussion 1 year and 5 months ago

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justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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also, the others are correct in that you must hit the cabinets with a cleaner that will break down any oily residue such as cooking oils and even oils from fingers (i came on here assuming you tried to clean this already with some sort of consumer cleaner). that will have to be removed before using abrasives because a fine abrasive will just move around and become stuck in the oily dirt. it won’t remove it. once that has been done, then the fine abrasives will do the trick on the hardest residue.

i would be tempted to try fantastic but i would be worried about what that might do to a water base paint. might soften it. if you soften a finish and use abrasives after, it will just make a mess (and it will start to peel the top coat). i am less worried about this on oil based finishes and lacquer.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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Of course we don’t know who did this with what but when i apply any finish, it is never less that 3 coats over primer or seal coat. Many times four or five. In my experience, a good finish must be built up. This generally leaves some room for rubbing it out. As i suggested, the bon ami might be 400- 600 and that might be a little heavy. Move to 800 or a thousand and you’ll be removing so little product. And keep it wet.

There are other fine powders. Cerium oxide is easily available. Someone said it is 3000 grit. My better half would love it if i would get off my backside and try rubbing some of the smudge marks on our own cabinets. I might give it a whirl and report back. At least if the cerium does not work, you will know not to waste your money.

brokelin | 1 year and 5 months ago

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It kind of depends on what caused the yellowing. Simple green is great for grease (though it seems to me that since they changed the formula a decade ago, it doesn’t work as well – that isn’t based on any knowledge of the ingredients, but I noticed it stopped working as well, which led me to google to find they changed it.) Hydrogen peroxide works as well on many of the food-based stuff simple green works on.

Vinegar, perhaps starting with it diluted, works on the the kitchen staining things that aren’t the grease that simple green and peroxide work on. You can try Murphy’s oil soap, but I think you might have better results with Dawn, the concentrated one. Dawn and vinegar together are recommended for dissolving soap scum in showers, might work on your doors. You could also try baking soda and see what results that gives. I’d try all of those before any scrubbing powders to avoid scratches. The internet suggests vinegar and baking soda together: https://www.forbes.com/sites/houzz/2014/08/28/how-to-keep-your-white-kitchen-white/?sh=6da650b367a8; and https://den garden.com/home-improvement/How-to-Clean-Yellowing-Kitchen-Cabinets-Painted-White
I find google usually yields solutions that that worked for others.

Remember that Bon Ami comes in 2 different formulas, original and stronger newer one. Barkeeps friend comes in a thick liquid, not just the powder – I’d try the liquid scrubbing versions first. Barkeeps friend is stronger than Bon Ami. As a last result, bleach sometimes works – the powdered cleansers containing bleach often will shine many things – the trouble is trying to get them to whiten evenly, given that you can’t ever scrub evenly everywhere.

Worst comes to worst, if you can’t get the white you are looking for after trying to clean them, you can always have a coat of paint applied (won’t be as nice as shop sprayed on the cabinet boxes, though you could send out the doors for spraying), but it might get your the look you are trying to get.

markwalker | 1 year and 5 months ago

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OP stated the cabinets are 10 years old, so the finish might be sprayed on, and kind of thin, especially on edges as you point out Homeinspector. That is why I would suggest trying Bon Ami as a last resort.. Steel wool is another thing I would avoid.. But I’m always in favor of trying the gentlest cleaning method first.
Well diluted vinegar will remove soap residue. which can cause discoloration and yellowing.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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And be careful with acids such as vinager as they can soften the finish and if dirt is still present when that heppens, it can embed in the finish. Not sure if vinager is that strong.

The challenges here are going to be with water base paint. Rubbing out oil base will be less challenging (many people used to rub satin impervo with 0000 steal wool) and lacquer will be least. It has to do with hardnesss of the finish.

Do not use steel wool on your cabinets op.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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Whoa, why use abrasives as a last resort?

Op, I think I know why whoa said use abrasives as a last resort but i can tell you this- do not use the abrasives on sharp corners.

jrs84o | 1 year and 5 months ago

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GREAT advice…. Thank You.

markwalker | 1 year and 5 months ago

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Simple Green is pretty good also, but again, rinse it off afterwards.

markwalker | 1 year and 5 months ago

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Murphy’s Oil Soap followed by a wiping down with a little diluted .vinegar. on a rag. Use abrasives as a last resort.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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I just checked. Bon ami uses feldspar powder and someone on line suggested it is 400-600 grit but he said that was his recollection. If these cabinets are a fine, hard finish, i would not use anything heavier than 600 grit. 400 might leave lines. If that happen you go back over with 600 and 800 and 1000.

So what we are talking about here is “finishing” and “polishing” and once you learn how to perfectly sand wood have heavy grits, you will know how to polish metals and glass with finer grits. Wood is 40-120 and sometimes 40-320. Start with finest grit that does the job. Polishing finishes can start at 320-800. Metals, when i have to remove plating on metals, i start at 180 and sand to 400 and then machine polish to 800-1200.

With finishes and glass, try to use water with any papers or powders. When i do metals, i do not use water but the finer compounds have water in them.

No i am not interested in coming on site and polishing anything but as i age and reconfig ure my shop, i plan on setting up a proper polishing system with multiple wheels so people can bring door hardware TO ME to polish.

Op, if you tell us what your finish is, we might have more suggestions

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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If that is a lacquer any of these should work. I would find out what grit is in bartender’s friend or bon ami if you go that route. Those products scratch porcelain.

I have a fine polishing powder at home. If op tells us they are following this and interested i will get the name when i return.

JohnHancock | 1 year and 5 months ago

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Bon Ami?

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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Depends on how hard finish is

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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Right b ob. Back in the day. Straight up ammonia.

RobertGMarvin

in General Discussion 1 year and 5 months ago

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Perhaps a spray cleaner followed by waxing with a good liquid or paste wax.

justinromeu26 | 1 year and 5 months ago

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It really depends. A hard finish might respond well to a compound type cleaner but the problem is if the compound has color, like red auto compund, the color my soak into the finish. At least if it is soft. There might be a compund that will not leave residue. Or wet sand with paper. Start at 1200. If that does not work, go 1000. Wet. If that does not work go 800 etc. I think 400-600 should work. But start light. You don’t want swirls in your finish.