Apartment Door Paint

I’m on the board of a 10 unit co-op and we need to repaint all the apartment doors. I’m seeking recommendations for the type of paint that would be durable for front doors. Also color recommendations would be helpful. The color we currently have is an ugly dark green. Is there something landlords use as a default? Asking because I’d like to avoid having a two-hour building meeting to debate colors.

angelique.m.west

in General Discussion 6 years ago

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angelique.m.west | 6 years ago

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Thanks so much, stevecym!

stevecym | 6 years ago

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the stuff I am talking about comes in bases that can be mixed to suit. don’t look at their pre mixed colors.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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I will tell you another reason this stuff is being marketed for industrial. it may be voluntary or perhaps a requirement, but the EPA does not want us using oil paints on anything but metal. they are trying to steer consumers away from it.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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the one I have here says SUPER SPEC HP, Maintenance Coatings, DTM Aklyd. you can get it in semi gloss. I tried to get the UPC off this can but a run of paint has covered it.

it says high performance on the top. here is the spec sheet for the urethane version (P22?). the can I have in front of me is the non urethane, which I think is P23

www2.benjaminmoore.com/DownloadBinaryServletTDS?fileName=20140312_P22_ TDS_US_OKF.pdf..

I think I used this stuff on a pair of doors at 124 Dean street like 10 years ago and when I drive by I look and they are still holding up.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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ok, have the painter smooth what is on there out with a flat orbital sander first. fill the nicks not with wood products or latex stuff like we use on houses, but auto body stuff (I don’t mean bondo, although any dents he can fill with that). you may want to prime before filling. if I were putting any bondo on I would go direct to the metal. for fillers, they have stuff in a yellow tube for auto work, I can’t recall the name and you can put it on and do not have to prime it. it dries fast and you keep working. it comes tinted.

auto body supply shops and even auto zone carries a lot of this.

I am not sure the super spec I use is called an enamel (enamel may be TOO hard; you want the industrial and if it is applied right it will be sharp). It is oil base and the products have DTM on them for “Direct to Metal” (they are implying you do not have to prime, but I always prime.) some of this product is modified with urethane and says that on the can. do not use full GLOSS. it will show every imperfection. use semi or low lustre.

also, a foam roller may p ut this on smooth so long as it has no nap on it.

I will see if I can pull a stock number from a can we have here or the title on it.

angelique.m.west | 6 years ago

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Thank you, Stevecym. Our building is a pre-war built in 1920 or so. The doors are metal as far as I can tell and definitely have a few coats of paint on them and chips and scratches. The painter wants to fill the chips with smooth them. But I wasn’t totally sure: Did you say use enamel? high gloss? I looked at the Ben Moore pro colors but that stuff mostly seems for super industrial use.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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see what boo is golden is saying: “super easy to work with”; have it done right by a pro but in 2 years you can have the local handyman touch it up. if you used FPE, even a touch up becomes a “job”.

greenworks | 6 years ago

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We’ve used both FPE high gloss paint (their Dutch door kit) and the Ben Moore super spec semi gloss and agree with stevecym. We just used the Ben Moore super spec for the first time this weekend and it is much easier to apply and levels nicely. Super easy to work with, loved it. It seems like it will be far more durable for the use you require too.

And having sat on the board of a small co-op in the past, I wish you the best of luck in keeping the paint discussion to less than two hours lolol.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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btw, I have had more than one “painter” call me “difficult”. I tell them, if you do it the way I tell you do it or at least the way the product says to do it on the label, and I am “difficult” then it is “my problem”. if you cannot follow my instructions as they have been laid out by generations of men before me and if you can not follow the instructions on the can and I am “difficult” then it is “your problem”.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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take everything I just said here and put some of it to your painter. if he does not know what you are talking about, get someone else. there are guys out there who will think you are crazy if you start saying this to them.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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and I will tell you something else. you probably do not have to strip your old doors. but you better have them sanded well with say 120 (and use a good under coater or primer after 120 grit paper as 120 is what I would call heavy for metal work; it will show through. after priming, you can sand with 180). you need to remove a lot of the old paint as if you leave too much hard paint on, the build up will make it easy to chip . too many hard layers. also, if they have latex, take it down a lot. too much latex is too soft and the oil will chip easier even if you prime between the two. you cannot build too many coats of a hard product, especially on a metal door and especially over a soft product. keep it a bit thinner; it will last longer. this is stuff you don’t hear people talk about anymore; the guy in the corner paint store will not even begin to comprehend what I just said.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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if you use oil and a fully experienced person who sands out with 180 between coats, you can get this stuff smooth almost is if it were sprayed. almost (when I am training staff on how to prepare a surface and sand out, and tack off, I point to a car and say “that is the goal”: you won’t get there but some people can try and get close). also, have them add penetrol to help it level. (I have a door I just did on Monroe St and I bet if the customer saw this post, he would say it looks almost sprayed).

I am going to give you another tip. as someone mentioned Fine Paints, and that is a great product, but it is super gloss. Gloss shows imperfections. if you do this and wish to hide some surface imperfections, go “low lustre”. this is not latex paint where low lustre will not be cleanable. it will be washable and it will hide imperfections.

years ago, we used to use Pittsburgh paints as they had some stuff that we felt was better than Ben Moore. but I am not sure any more. the thing about all products is, the niche ones are gone and everything else is bec oming like everything else and Ben Moore is no longer family run but another corporation.

this is the kind of project you need a painter for. a finisher, not a painter. a tradesmen who understands that prep and stirring the paint is as important as the paycheck at the end of the job. when they find out that this is what I do when I rebuild wood doors, they always ask me to refinish (not paint, refinish) their metal apt doors, but I cannot run around the city painting metal doors which is why I am so free with the info here. every time we do wood doors in a coop they look at them and ask us to do the metal doors.

you can talk to the manager at Gleason Paints in Woodside to see if he can recommend anything else. I mean it is ok to talk to Janovic but they seem to push Ben Moore. the big independent chains offer more variety. Be careful going to small neighborhood stores with the Ben Moore signs over them as the selection is limited and the knowledge is even more limited (I tell people neighborhood paint stores are like drug dealers; if they don’t have what you want, they will sell you something and tell you it is what you want just to get your money; a true professional would send you someplace that has what you need). Mazzone may be good though as the manager of their paint store seems to do her research and just had a conversation with me about a product neither of us knew about but she did her work and got some answers.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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another poster mentions fine paints of Europe. consider that the person using this will have to sand this out very well and fill any nicks . fine paints is unforgiving and any dust shows; so you need not a painter but a finisher. surface prep with anything is key, with fine paints it is everything. personally, on something that will get scratched and dinged (they are metal doors) I do not think fine paints is the way to go as you may have to have someone retouch them in a couple of years. they are a product you put on your own house.

stevecym | 6 years ago

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go oil. it is harder. to get a nice finish on that metal you will have to sand between coats. perhaps fill spots and old chips with a sandable fast drying filler (we called it red lead when used on cars; they still make it but it no longer has lead in it). if the prior surface is unknown, prime. if bare metal prime. use ben moore super spec maintenance coatings. I know it sounds cheap as it is a maintenance coating and it is made for industrial use, but it is much better than any latex. if this is done right and sanded out between coats, you can come close to something that looks sprayed. do not do latex on metal apt doors.

GreenThinker | 6 years ago

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I would say as long as you use a strong enamel paint, it doesn’t matter if it’s light or dark. Unless someone is banging groceries and packages against the door, it’s not likely it’ll get scuffed or dirty from normal use. I like benjamin moore paints if you’re going with latex, if you want a high gloss oil paint, “fine paints of europe” provide a mirror like finish. The current state of the doors also needs to be factored in, if they’ve already been painted with latex, you can’t use oil. If they aren’t smooth, you don’t want high gloss, it’ll show all the flaws. Always use a good primer and sand between coats.

angelique.m.west | 6 years ago

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Thank you.

dorkofwindsor | 6 years ago

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Light colors may help out dark condo hallways, but the challenge between showing dirt is a tradeoff. Many I’ve seen do sand, beige, light grey. Complementary to your hallway design being the critical choice. Main benefit to neutral is that it won’t go out of style in 5 years and tastes can vary widely on darker or bolder colors. Perhaps test some small sample cans on your door with a few colors and bring it to the meeting. Keeping it to just a few choices should hopefully alleviate the time suck.

angelique.m.west | 6 years ago

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Thanks, though we don’t need new doors. We just want to repaint the ones we have.

yudashasom | 6 years ago

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Universal Fire Door in Bushwick can fabricate and install.